OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

I was just reading through the Archives, and saw Kentetsu's post on cleaning up his engine bay. He said that to remove the rust from places, he put them through an acid bath. What kind of acid could have have been using? Muriatic? I keep on finding more and more rust as i dig deeper into my car, and I want to get rid of as much as I can before I hit it with POR-15.

SCCAIT7

Muriatic acid is great for surface rust- However if you have severe rust- your going to end up with more of a mess than you started with. I did use Muriatic acid to pull the rust off my car...and then I used it to re-firb a gas tank. If you use it... You can use it at full strength- HOWEVER do not let it sit on the spot/in the tank for a long period of time.

tempusfugitive

just wire wheel it, although i thought someone mentioned that POR-15 had phosphoric acid in it or something like that. if you can find a souce for the stuff i'd try that.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

For info on POR-15, search up threads posted by Aaron Cake in the 2nd Gen section, he coated the bottom of his FC with it...

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/pics-status-my-turbo-na-bridgeport-project-project-tina-468413/

Jon

Kentetsu

You can pick up muriatic acid at most hardware stores for a couple of bucks per gallon. Use if full strenght for body work, but mix it at 50% for overnight soaking. Works great, just make sure you don't get any on you and rinse your parts well. Prime and paint right away or the rust will start back up before you know it.

kenn_chan

Phosphoric acid works well also it comes in a jelly like substance called "naval jelly" and for years people used it for rust removal.

kenn

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

POR-15 comes iwth a "primer" that is phosphoric acid - and it's probably where 90% of POR-15's rust-killing abilities come from.. just hit it with that, it stops rust dead.

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

awesome, thanks for the info guys. I need to get a wire wheel for my grinder for the hard-to-reach places, i'll probably pick up some muriatic acid at the hardware store my little bro works at so i can get it at a discount. When I get some more money/get my credit card payed off, i'm going to order POR-15 from their website.

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

i can imagine that doing the underside of your car while it was just up on ramps would be a PITA. I have full access to a hydraulic lift pretty much anytime i want to drive the hour to use it, and the underside of my car is pretty much spotless, but i'm still going to coat the vast majority of my car with POR-15 eventually, including the WHOLE cabin, the underside, and the rear wheel wells, along with the rear end and suspension components.

mwpayne

I found a product that seems to be just as good as POR-15, called ZERO RUST

(www.zerorust.com)> I decided to use it on my REPU restoration, and it has less fumes than POR-15, has different colors, and seems to be at least as durable. I happen to get it on sale for around $20 per gallon from Grainger, but I'm not sure if the sale is still on.

Aviator 902S

A portable bead-blaster will also work very well for removing even the more established rust and pitting. After bead-blasting I'd then try the muriatic acid, flush it out with water, blow dry completely with compressed air (or even a hair dryer) and then immediately apply either the POR-15 or an epoxy primer. Before applying the primer, don't breathe on the bare metal--- the moisture in your breath can cause it to corrode under the primer. I know this is common sense but I've seen it happen so often...

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

Would you suggest purchasing a bead-blaster from Harbor Freight, or do people rent these?

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

hmmmm. acid....hmmmmmm blast from the past.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

To do it right, you strip the chassis of every part on the car and then trailer it to a place that can dip the entire chassis. Places that do this then also usually follow that with a dip that coats the bare metal to retard rust until you can get the chassis shot with paint. Its a PIA and not cheap buts it the way professional restorers take care of rust. Its the only way to know you have completely removed all possible rust, anything short of this will not get it all. Rust never sleeps. Good luck.

Aviator 902S

I've never priced them out, but we have one at work so I could just use that one. I'd imagine tool rental places either carry them or can get one in for you. I'd try the yellow pages.

Most of the bead-blasting I do at the hangar is with the full-size one rather than the portable, but both work very well for removing rust, old paint, dirt, etc. on aircraft parts. What they don't work on is rubberized sealants--- the sand just bounces off.

Rx7carl

Phosphoric acid works well. You can buy it at Discount/Advance Auto parts stores, and other stores too Im sure. Flush well afterwards and dry asap, and prime. Like Aviator and Neil Young said, rust never sleeps. Blasting would be difficult on a running car. The media will get in every place you dont want it.