can you rivet in and/or bold on your flywheel? for street ported high reving motors is there a way to better mount your flywheel like rivet or something, I've heard of them flying out at high rpms

 

The flywheel is held on by 'the big nut', not sure what you mean about bolting or riveting. The flywheel is usually not an issue, the clutch disc and pressure plate are the ones that come apart. You didn't say how high you plan on reving, but check with the maker of the disc and pp and make sure it's rated for 10k rpms.

You can also get a ballistic blanket for protection in case of a catastophic failure. Where the clutch is located on the 7s, your feet and legs are generally not at risk as the clutch assembly sits forward of the firewall. It may have been Directfreak that had a failure, it was like a buzzsaw went though the rear part of the engine bay.

 

If the flywheel nut is properly torqued to spec, it should not be an issue.
Anytime that nut comes off while the engine is running, you can bet it was not torqued down correctly, or the e-shaft/inner diameter of the flywheel/counterweight was dirty or damaged.
300+ lb/ft torque does not "Just back off" without a valid reason.
I would be more leary of the lightweight flywheels that use bolts to attach to the counterweight, than the stock flywheel nut. With those, you have 6 more items that that can loosen when not torqued properly.

 

not to mention that the nut has a washer that gets bent down over it.

 

Explain further please. Out of 4 engines that I have dealt with, not one has had a washer on it, and I have never seen the washer for sale anywhere.

On another note, how do you properly torque the flywheel nut down? Unless you have an uber expensive torque wrench, then its not likely you will be able to accurately torque the flywheel nut down.

 

I believe beginning 81+, mazda no longer use the lock washer. Just apply a dab of blue lock tite.

 

o, ok. that's possible since the only engine i've built is out of a '74 rx4.

85rotarypower: with the type of wrench that i think mazdatrix sells, it's designed to multiply the standard torque wrench. my friend and i actually took their design and added it to a RB wrench, so ours actually doubles as a flywheel stop also.

 

Oh they are only 500 bucks hahaha....0-1000 lbs

10 dollars a day to rent, luckly my shop has one.

 

I know how I will torque down the flywheel nut. It's called a Snap-on 1" drive torque wrench that my father used back when he was one of the state's highest regarded diesel mechanics. Of course, I doubt there are very many backyard mechanics who have access to tools of that caliber.
A good 1/2-3/4" breaker bar, with a long pipe over the end works as a suitable substitute, though......

 

I just buzz it on with a 1/2" drive impact and a 3/4" adaptor to a 2 1/8" socket. I couldn't find a 6 point impact socket in 54mm. Two and one eighth is close enough.