Hi all,

I have an 83' GS with approximately 70,000 miles on it. The bolts that connect the clutch slave cylinder to the bell-housing have been stripped badly for awhile. This has allowed the slave cylinder to move around when putting the clutch in and doesn't lead to good clutch feel. I drove around like this for awhile because I didn't want to have to deal with it, but a few weeks ago the slave cylinder died and I was able to barely limp home the car. This is my first time changing the clutch on an FR car (done a few Hondas). Few questions I've run into while doing it:

- Where can you find the crush washers for the transmission? Can you still get them at the Mazda dealer?
- Is the driveshaft to differential flange marked for balancing from the factory? When looking at it someone definitely put a punch mark on the differential flange and the driveshaft, but I'm confused because as they were put together they were 180 degrees apart from each other. It's like someone made the mark and then didn't put it back together right? There is a vibration from the rear of the car at about 80 mph, could this be the cause? Trying to decide how I should put it back together.
- Is it absolutely necessary to replace the flywheel and pilot bearing? I'm trying to avoid doing it, but don't know if it's wise or not.

So far I'm at the point where I unbolt the transmission from the back of the engine and undo the cross-member bolts and lower the thing. It's been pretty painless so far (although a bit time-consuming).

Thanks!

 

I would replace the bearing, why the hesitation? It would be a lot wasted time and energy if you have to take it all back out. The drive shaft should always go back the way it came from the factory, but it sounds like yours was not. A lot of higher speed vibration comes from worn transmission mount. I would replace that while you're at it. Try that first, since moving the drive shaft is easy if you still get vibration.

 

Replace the pilot bearing while apart. Borrow/rent the puller from advancezone and just round the edges to make it work. Use the new bearing to test fit the tool.

Pull the flywheel and have it surfaced by someone that knows how to do this type of flywheel. The face and the mounting surface have to be kept at a certain margin.

The tranny balances well on the flat bottom by the drain plug. I just use my floor jack. Getting the car high enough is the only challenge. As to the driveshaft and balance, I always make sure to mark the rear so it goes on the same, never worried about the output shaft on the tranny end.

 

For the slave cylinder threads that are striped, use some heli-coils.

 

 

 

I did the clutch on my 83 GSL this past year and got a lot of help here on the forum. I tried to document everything in the thread. So much good advice from the guys here.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...hread-1128545/

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. The main reason I'm reluctant to replace the pilot bearing is because I was under the impression it was very difficult to get out. Maybe that's not the case? I have a new one that came with my Exedy clutch kit, so I suppose I can try. I'll look at things once I get the transmission out of the car and post back. I haven't had time to work on the car due to work. I'll reuse the crush washer, I just try to replace if possible.

I have a transmission jack that is clearly made for a longitudinally mounted transmission, works very poorly on my Civic's trans-axle, I hope it works better for this application.

Was the driveshaft marked from the factory? I get the impression it was not (mine is clearly marked though).

 

Replace the pilot bearing,with the right tool it'll come right out. Be certain the bearing that comes in the kit is correct,i have had more than one of their kits come with wrong bearing. To check to be sure it's correct BEFORE you attempt install,slide it onto input shaft of transmission and make sure it fits properly. The kit does NOT come with a grease seal for pilot bearing,can be sourced at Mazda,Napa.

If you are keeping this car,remove flywheel and have it resurfaced,makes a big difference in how smooth the clutch is and how long it lasts. While flywheel is at machine shop,replace pilot bearing/seal and replace rear main seal,with flywheel off it's right there.

Driveshaft yoke/companion flange not factory marked. Once shaft is out manipulate both yokes and feel for binding/play in u joints which could be causing your vibration.

Trans jack you have will work fine.

Pilot bearing grease seal part # 1881-11-404 about $5

 

I would just drill the slave cylinder bolt holes out to the next larger size (M10 or some SAE size) then re-tap them. You won't ever have to worry about helicoil or the next time you need a slave cylinder replaced. The only down side to this is that with the larger holes you might have to make the slave cylinder holes bigger (not too big of a problem in my mind).

No don't worry about the rear end position and the drive shaft. They are balanced independently of each other.

 

How are the resurfaced flywheels at Atkins? Even if a bit more expensive, may be worth it to me rather than looking for a shop around here and then inevitably having to wait. I'm trying to get this done sooner rather than later because my DD has a bad engine and I need to get it fixed.

I guess my question with the driveshaft alignment is if it's out of balance will it cause any catastrophic problem in the driveline or just vibrate more than it should? I'm sort of in the mindset that it might make sense to align the alignment marks someone previously made with each other rather than reassemble the way it was when I took it apart. Someone clearly went to the trouble of making alignment marks with a punch and it was clearly not aligned according to the marks when I took it apart.

 

I changed my clutch twice first time I changed only the throw out bearing and re surfaced the flywheel second time I just changed the disc no issues with the drive shaft I just removed it and jammed it back it I changed 2 before I never needed to balance it or nothing

 

If it's not aligned correctly it will rattle mines gave out I have a extra drive shaft if you need it give me 40 bucks n is yours

 

 

I bought an Atkins flywheel a year ago. I had specific requirements (performance clutch yada yada) and it was pretty scarred. No problems with it. Like GSLSE wrote I don't see why a machine shop couldn't turn your flywheel if its not damaged.


Don't drive around with a bad drive shaft. Balancing and new u joints (if you are unable to replace them yourself) is not a terribly expensive service.

Once re-assembled do check the angles the u joints make.

Have you lowered the vehicle?

 

Progress update: got the transmission out yesterday. It took a very long time since I didn't realize there were five bolts holding it in. The fifth bolt being the one with the grounding cable to it. Anyways got it out. Drilled out the slave cylinder bolting holes on on the bell housing and replaced with timeserts. The slave cylinder holds tight now, very happy about that. I wasn't going to replace the pilot bearing, but the seal looks pretty knackered, so I guess I'm going to go for it. Ordered a socket for the flywheel. I'm hoping my impact wrench (battery operated) can get it off, if not I have a torque multiplier. My largest torque wrench only goes up to 250 ft-lb, so I'm planning on going to that and than just tightening it a bit after.

The car is lowered, but I'm probably going to put the stock springs back on. I have some "Spec RX-7" springs on it that I bought here, but they're unbelievably harsh and aren't really doing anything for the handling in my opinion.

- I've got a lot of green clean coolant on the bottom of the engine pan. I noticed it dripping while removing the transmission. The car is going through coolant, but not incredibly fast. I can smell coolant occasionally when the heat is on or when cornering quickly at low speeds. I replaced the all the coolant hoses and the oil-cooler o-rings about 3 years ago when I got the car. I'm very concerned that this is going to mean an engine rebuild, but I guess it can last until the Summer I hope. I car doesn't smoke or seem to be burning anything.

- Where can you get the pilot bearing grease?

Thanks for the help everyone, this has been slightly discouraging because it's taking forever. This is my third transmission change and I've hated it every time. Getting that transmission in and out is such a pain. I really need to get this car back on the ground so I can get the engine swapped in my DD.

 

 

The coolant leak may be your intake manifold orings. Easy to fix if it is. Look on top of the engine right under the carb and in the valleys of the intake manifold. Quite often if its leaking you will see puddles of coolant there.

 

Chrisfix did a video on general clutch replacement... apparently, you can get the bearing out with bread and grease, socket and hammer I think..... if you don't want to bother with the tool. Very.... unorthodox way, but it seemed to work.

You learn something new every day - I have to check my trans mount too now, that it's mentioned.. how about your U joints?

 

This will NOT work on a rotary engine,get,use the right tool and be done with it.

 

I did my clutch just this last month on my Gsl, I ordered the mazdatrix pilot bearing puller& installer set.The right tools are worth every penny, in time saved. It took me 30 seconds to remove the old pilot, and 2 minutes to pound a new one in. Beware of knockoff pilot bearings, the real oem bearing says Koyo Japan on the outside of the bearing race. Mark the driveline with a paint pen, and youll be sure you got it back the way it came down. I didnt have the flywheel resurfaced as i dont have the 52mm socket,but with a new clutch, It runs great. Btw, if your green coolant leak is in the right rear corner of engine bay, (back of engine near exhaust and intake) It is probably the o rings in the intake like has been posted above. Just be sure when you put it back, that you remember the o rings. I freeze plugged the coolant ports, but forgot the o rings when i put the intake back on, so it still leaks. Also, as mentioned above, a little grease goes a long way in the pilot bearing. I experienced the hydrolock as mentioned above, it was hell to get the trans to go the last 1/2".
All in All its not terribly difficult. Good Luck and Happy Wrenching
-Rotary Roadkill
​​​​​​​Western Wankels

 

Finally got this done this evening. Replaced the pilot bearing and seal using the Atkins puller. Transmission went in surprisingly easy. Took it for a brief drive this evening, drove pretty good, but the clutch engages right off the floor. I had a difficult time bleeding it and I'm guessing it probably just needs to be bled again (or bled better this time). I heard sort of an audible whirring noise when I started the car up for the first time, but it went away after a minute or so. I'm hoping it's not an issue. Feels good to have it done, although I'm a tad concern about where the clutch is engaging. I'm horrible at bleeding things though.

 

Get a brake speed bleeder. Makes it a one-person job. Just ensure you get the correct thread pitch.

 

New clutch master and slave I assume. Did you adjust the pedal to specs? See the FSM section 6-4 6-d for instructions.