heres the story. . .
when cold starting, as i first turn the key, it sounds like it cranks but no gas or spark is getting in. wait a second or two, turn it again and it starts up fine. but, it idles at 3500, so i blip the throttle, it comes down to 2000, after it gets to running temp, it idles consistently at 600-800. first, is it a major problem that it idles high until warm? second, is that cranking with no gas or spark a big problem? third, is that idle of about 700 too low? thanks guys

 

well 3500 rpm, for me is too high. but it goes at 2k rpm at cold engine temperature, is normal, and idle on normal temperature is 800 rpm. so u have to raise the rpm a little. about no spark and no fuel on first try, that wierd.

 

where do you adjust the idle? is it the screw on the forward end of the fuel rail? or is that for mixture?

 

i ask because somehow with putting the intake all back on, it got screwed in all the way. i can't remember finding a definitvie answer in the haynes, so i have just been loosening/tightening it, but i haven't noticed any difference. is this where i adjust the idle?

 

You don't mention if you use the choke or not but I imagine you do. If you're not using the choke then you got problems. When starting my cold engine with the choke, it'll try to idle at 3000+ but I push the choke in so it idles around 2k or where it sounds reasonable.

In any case, what you describe sounds like a fully functional rotary to me. Although you might want clean the outside of your carb and lube up (WD-40) the carb linkages as maintenance.

Good luck!

 

mine doesn't like to start either. i have to pump the gas a bit to get it going. i also didn't hook my choke up right after the rebuild so it doesn't meter the fuel with the choke. thats what my foot does now.

 

It is a GSL-SE, no choke and no carb.

The idle adjust is on top of the dynamic chamber or intake plenum of whatever you want to call the damn thing.
There is a small screw on top near the big letters: REEGI or whatever they are. If you don't have very good luck adjusting it this way, then you have other problems.
If that's the case post again, and I have answers for you.
Oh yeah, make sure to adjust the TPS while you are doing all of this. And lube the throttle linkage.
The only screw on the end of the fuel rail that I know of is the really small phillips on the end of the fuel pulsation damper. Don't mess with it unless it is falling out. Make sure the damper is not leaking fuel!!! This is a common problem in FI's. Ask me how I know!

hanman

 

that's the name, i couldn't think of it, pulsation damper. i'll go find that idle screw tonight, i have another problem too. how would i fix a sticky gas pedal? thanks and im guessing TPS is throttle position screw?

 

i knew that.......i was testing you guys......no really........

 

2k is normal for cold idle on my -SE, and she idles a tad high when warm, spec is 800rpm, but mine idles at ~850-900rpm. There's a screw on the top of the throttle body that's the idle air adjustment screw. The TPS is the throttle position sensor, the Haynes manual has the procedure for adjusting this gadget. While your at it, you prolly want to clean the throttle body if you havn't already. Mine was gummy and icky. If you have a sticky throttle pedal just shoot some white lithium grease on the linkage in the engine bay and trace backwards to the pedal. Worst case, you might need a new cable, but I *SERIOUSLY* doubt that.

If you're still having idle problems, check out this link... it's saved my *** before.

http://www.nellump.com/peri/epi/firstGenTech.html

there's a section on the GSL-SE idle problems in there (i'd give you the exact link, but the page isn't loading for me here at work, stupid proxy server)

As for the pulsation damper, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE be careful with that, if it breaks and dies, you'll prolly want to have a fire-extinguisher handy. I hear some people are just eliminating them with a tapped fitting for their fuel return line... I'm not sure how great of an idea that is, since I really don't know what the damn thing does, but i'd guess that anything's better than an engine bay fire.

--matt

 

http://mrmazda.members.atlantic.net/gslseidle.html
an absolutely awesome article on setting the idle on a GSL-SE.
check it out.
hanman

 

For the screw on the PD, just screw it in snug AND DON'T MESS WITH IT ANYMORE!

hanman

 

as your injectors spray stop spray it creates pulses in pressure. the damper is there take smooth those out.

 

Actually it is the pulses from the fuel pump.

 

thanks guys, i checked out those sights and they helped. warm idle is back to 800, but the warm up is still kinda weird. but its all workin good!! thanks