Engine starts sputtering in 3rd gear after 3k rpm
#1
Opposite of know it all
Thread Starter
Engine starts sputtering in 3rd gear after 3k rpm
After 3 weeks of doing an annoying brake job it was time to get the car on the road, sadly while I was on the road it felt like the engine didn’t want anything to do with any gas input, even when I pushed in the clutch it was refusing to rev up steadily. I was planning on replacing my fuel pump and filter since it looks nasty since the car has been sitting for 9+ years. The fuel line to the carb was loose and leaking but I have fixed it but never tested it again. Any thoughts?
#2
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
Sounds like fuel delivery issue, usual in a long-term/incorrectly stored car.
Easiest 1st step is (1) get rid of ALL the old fuel. You have a drain for the tank. (2) change fuel filter. If get reeeeeally lucky this may be all you need to do. But guessing fuel tank at least is gummed up with deposits which will continue to 'reinfect' the fuel system even after doing the above. So the tank would need to be dropped and cleaned. Once empty, relatively easy job. Just pay close attention to the various lines coming off the top of the tank (revealed on the drop) and where they attach. Good time to replace these as well in an old car!
A pro shop like a radiator/coolant biz is best for the clean out. Once done I would drop the $30+ on a POR15 gas tank 'liner' kit, which is their formulation which re-coats the interior of the tank to prevent rust from busting loose or even starting again...
-been there myself!
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Easiest 1st step is (1) get rid of ALL the old fuel. You have a drain for the tank. (2) change fuel filter. If get reeeeeally lucky this may be all you need to do. But guessing fuel tank at least is gummed up with deposits which will continue to 'reinfect' the fuel system even after doing the above. So the tank would need to be dropped and cleaned. Once empty, relatively easy job. Just pay close attention to the various lines coming off the top of the tank (revealed on the drop) and where they attach. Good time to replace these as well in an old car!
A pro shop like a radiator/coolant biz is best for the clean out. Once done I would drop the $30+ on a POR15 gas tank 'liner' kit, which is their formulation which re-coats the interior of the tank to prevent rust from busting loose or even starting again...
-been there myself!
Stu A
80GS
AZ
#3
Opposite of know it all
Thread Starter
Sounds like fuel delivery issue, usual in a long-term/incorrectly stored car.
Easiest 1st step is (1) get rid of ALL the old fuel. You have a drain for the tank. (2) change fuel filter. If get reeeeeally lucky this may be all you need to do. But guessing fuel tank at least is gummed up with deposits which will continue to 'reinfect' the fuel system even after doing the above. So the tank would need to be dropped and cleaned. Once empty, relatively easy job. Just pay close attention to the various lines coming off the top of the tank (revealed on the drop) and where they attach. Good time to replace these as well in an old car!
A pro shop like a radiator/coolant biz is best for the clean out. Once done I would drop the $30+ on a POR15 gas tank 'liner' kit, which is their formulation which re-coats the interior of the tank to prevent rust from busting loose or even starting again...
-been there myself!
Stu A
80GS
AZ
Easiest 1st step is (1) get rid of ALL the old fuel. You have a drain for the tank. (2) change fuel filter. If get reeeeeally lucky this may be all you need to do. But guessing fuel tank at least is gummed up with deposits which will continue to 'reinfect' the fuel system even after doing the above. So the tank would need to be dropped and cleaned. Once empty, relatively easy job. Just pay close attention to the various lines coming off the top of the tank (revealed on the drop) and where they attach. Good time to replace these as well in an old car!
A pro shop like a radiator/coolant biz is best for the clean out. Once done I would drop the $30+ on a POR15 gas tank 'liner' kit, which is their formulation which re-coats the interior of the tank to prevent rust from busting loose or even starting again...
-been there myself!
Stu A
80GS
AZ
#4
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
New One? wow. Unobtainium now - might mean minimal correction to get it back in shape, but 9yrs anywhere with sloshy old gas is never good. Hope the carb is OK!
To drop: no, you can do it with jack stands. Rear just needs to be high enough for the tank to clear the rear lower panel under the bumper. Just needs to be empty or you have hands full with tank maneuvering!
- disconnect the level sender at the driver rear wheel well behind the plastic panel
(you will need a sender GASKET! or make one, as the sender will need to be pulled to clean the tank)
- detach the filler hose from the filler cap area on the fender
- Release the rear of the 2 straps, let the rear of the tank drop down, then reach up PHOTOGRAPH/LABEL where all the lines on top attach.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
To drop: no, you can do it with jack stands. Rear just needs to be high enough for the tank to clear the rear lower panel under the bumper. Just needs to be empty or you have hands full with tank maneuvering!
- disconnect the level sender at the driver rear wheel well behind the plastic panel
(you will need a sender GASKET! or make one, as the sender will need to be pulled to clean the tank)
- detach the filler hose from the filler cap area on the fender
- Release the rear of the 2 straps, let the rear of the tank drop down, then reach up PHOTOGRAPH/LABEL where all the lines on top attach.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
#5
Opposite of know it all
Thread Starter
New One? wow. Unobtainium now - might mean minimal correction to get it back in shape, but 9yrs anywhere with sloshy old gas is never good. Hope the carb is OK!
To drop: no, you can do it with jack stands. Rear just needs to be high enough for the tank to clear the rear lower panel under the bumper. Just needs to be empty or you have hands full with tank maneuvering!
- disconnect the level sender at the driver rear wheel well behind the plastic panel
(you will need a sender GASKET! or make one, as the sender will need to be pulled to clean the tank)
- detach the filler hose from the filler cap area on the fender
- Release the rear of the 2 straps, let the rear of the tank drop down, then reach up PHOTOGRAPH/LABEL where all the lines on top attach.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
To drop: no, you can do it with jack stands. Rear just needs to be high enough for the tank to clear the rear lower panel under the bumper. Just needs to be empty or you have hands full with tank maneuvering!
- disconnect the level sender at the driver rear wheel well behind the plastic panel
(you will need a sender GASKET! or make one, as the sender will need to be pulled to clean the tank)
- detach the filler hose from the filler cap area on the fender
- Release the rear of the 2 straps, let the rear of the tank drop down, then reach up PHOTOGRAPH/LABEL where all the lines on top attach.
Stu A
80GS
AZ
edit: ok sorry it sat for 9 years got this done to it and then more then sat from 2013-2021
#6
Senior Member
I had a similar issue just that mines would sputter at 5k rpm and give me no power. I was chasing fuel delivery issues for weeks. It ended up being that the bolt that holds the timing in place for my distributer was loose. So my timing was off 😒
That something that takes 2 seconds to check
That something that takes 2 seconds to check
The following users liked this post:
85_whiterx7 (08-19-21)
#7
Opposite of know it all
Thread Starter
I had a similar issue just that mines would sputter at 5k rpm and give me no power. I was chasing fuel delivery issues for weeks. It ended up being that the bolt that holds the timing in place for my distributer was loose. So my timing was off 😒
That something that takes 2 seconds to check
That something that takes 2 seconds to check
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#9
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