I pulled an engine out of a running car with healthy compression. Drained the oil from it to replace all the seals on the engine and it took me about a month to do. After getting it in the car it was very hard to turn. Added some premix oil to try and lubricate it a bit while spinning. It’s about 75 ft-lbs to turn with the front E-shaft bolt while the car is in neutral. Not sure what could be causing resistance or if it’s I just need to spin the engine a couple hundred times with some pre-mix oil in it to lubricate everything again.

 

Does the engine rotate ok when turned with the starter? You shouldn't be able to easily turn the engine over at the eccentric shaft pulley by hand.

 

The starter can turn the engine but it’s pretty slow. Also a new starter from the auto part store so I’m pretty confident I don’t have a starter issue

 

Many times, issue like a slow starter are a bad ground and/or a low battery.

 

What "seals" did you replace? Did you rebuild the stack on a vertical engine stand so it all stacked like a sandwich? Does the engine start and run?

I'm asking because the front Thrust Bearing can fall out of alignment if you don't maintain pressure on the e-shaft, and if it slips, you'll crush it when you install the flywheel nut to torque. That seems like a lot of force to spin it, as my spare engine on the stand can be turned easily by grabbing one of the Clutch Cover studs and giving it a spin. It will spin about 1/2 revolution, and I'm guessing less than 15ft/lbs of torque - without spark plugs installed, no accessory belts, etc. obviously.

Try pulling the plugs, have someone push the Clutch pedal down, and see how easily you can spin the engine from the e-shaft pulley. Even fighting the belts, you should be able to turn the engine by hand using the pulley for leverage. It'll be hard, but can be done. Let us know what you find.

 

I replaced the intake and exhaust seals, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, front main seal, intake oil rings, rebuilt the OMP and replaced the gasket, new thermostat and water pump gaskets. Not sure if torquing the flywheel nut after replacing all those would have crushed the thrust bearing. Spark plugs are removed and it takes 75+ ft lbs of torque to turn it and can’t be turned by hand.

 

Did you remove the e-shaft bolt to replace the front main seal? If you did I bet, like LongDuck has mentioned, the Thrust bearing has slipped.

 

I did remove the bolt and the front pulley to do the replacement. Looks like I’m pulling the engine out and probably replacing those two needle bearings. Thanks for the advice and help!!!

 

Go here: read this.
https://mazdatrix.com/front-pulley-thrust-bearings/

What it looks like when you get it apart;

 

both needle/torrignton bearings were perfect. pulled off the rear main seal and found a piece of metal that broke off of the rear stationary gear. Currently trying to and struggling to get the engine apart since the rear stationary gear has siezed onto the e-shaft or is preventing it from coming apart. Hopefully its just a new rear stationary gear and bearing I need

 

It must be quite a lot of force to break the stationary gear! Any idea how that happened?!

Good luck with your repair

 

You can remove the stack without first removing the rear stationary gear.