slingo

ok guys..yet another chapter in the saga of my '85 GS....
this time, its a bit on the serious note...
i was disconnecting the exhaust and intake and radiator this evening and when i was taking the intake manifold off, the coolant started pouring from the bottem of it ... i'm not absolutely 110% certain coolant went into the engine, but im betting it did...say some coolant got into the engine, would it absolutely kill it? i cranked it over by hand and a little bit came out of the rear rotor, should i pour some MMO in? anyone ever had this happen before? the engines good, the waterjacket is in tact on the inside so im not needing a rebuild and the coolant came in through the intake ports on the manifold not through the jacket.. anyone got any ideas for me? feel free to laugh at me also :P ive become accustomed to it

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

you're fine. it's collant and water, not sand or dirt! it'll burn off.

try cranking it over by hand some more and get it out. use a 19mm socket on the main pulley. mmo not a bad idea if u wanna smoke out the neighbors on startup ;-)

coolant came out of the rotor housing coolant passsage, that sends coolant into the intake manifold to cool it down.

later
-bp-

WackyRotary

When you pull the intake off a 12a the coolant leaks out of the coolant holes unless you plug them off like I have so I can take my weber intake off the bridgeport when ever and never worry about coolant messes anymore. As long as you have it ready to run soon, you won't have any problems. I wouldn't let coolant sit in a engine for a month, maybe a day or so. But to put your mind at ease, you sure could pour a little oil in or something.

peejay

Don't use the bolt on the main pulley - you risk overtightening the bolt.

Just yank the plugs and crank the engine with the starter. No big deal.

WackyRotary

other way around actually. :

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Yeah only thing is dont leave it in there for a long period of time, is the only drawback I can think of. Just pull the plugs and crank it over several cycles. you'll be ok, chances are you cleaned some **** off it

slingo

thanks for the help ..
*whew* sigh of relief..

i almost crapped in my pants when i saw it pouring in there...
ill do the plug pull + crank over a few times that pj suggested.. and yes.. i like smoking my neighbors out..

i dont know how long the motors going to be out, its getting a minor overhaul (oil pan gasket, oil-water o-rings, ACV blockoff, dual sheeve alternator pulley, new clutch, heavy degreasing, stripped of emissions BS) so its going to be a while, the reason im pulling the engine is to overhaul the bay also while the motors out, sand / spraypaint / clearcoat... ill post pics of the finished product hopefully it will be DRIVABLE then !!!!! anyway.. im going to go lay down and rest, got a good bit accomplished today.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

if its gonna be sitting for a long period, I would pour a little ATF or 10w-40 in there, to coat the steel housings and rotors, so It dont rust up while its out

peejay

A great thing is a spray oil specifically for storing engines. It's called Fogging Oil. Ideally you spray it in a running engine until it quits, but that's not really an option at this point is it. So have a buddy crank the engine with the starter, spark plugs removed, and use up about half the can spraying the oil into the intake ports. Then put the plugs back in and cover the ports with tape so nothing can fall into the engine.

slingo

ooo thanks peejay will do...
im going to be using some strong degreaser on the engine, so im going to have to find some tape that wont melt (the degreaser melted my gloves..burned my hands pretty bad too ...decently strong stuff..

anyway, i appreciate the help guys..wish me luck with the removal

oh yeah
ill be replacing the autolite crap plugs with NGK's once the engines back in...
right now the car has "Xact 7mm" wires on it (i figure they are cheap wires..) but they -are- new...same with the distrib cap...
anything i should take special note of when painting the engine bay?

Manntis

It'll just create a sweet smell as it burns, as long as there's not a whole lot poured in there. If there is try to drain as much as you can out of the engine through the intake & exhaust (and sparkplug holes, if you've turned the engine)

A large amount of liquid in an engine as it's cranked over can cause hydro-lock (liquid doesn't compress, remember?) and blow seals.

HOWEVER, that's a worst case scenario. If it's a few trickles you'll just get that cotton candy smell out the tailpipe as the coolant burns off.

djmickyg

you could even use a lil bit of metho. cus that absorbs water.
or even some water despersant not only will it soak up the water it will also act as a lube.

peejay

That's why you yank the plugs before cranking. Just in case...

I wouldn't want coolant to sit in an engine for very long. It can and will cause rust. Found this out the hard way on an engine I grabbed from work, we changed it because it blew a head gasket and had high miles on it so the customer electrd for a replacement engine (was actually cheaper that way too), i let it sit for a long time, when i finally pulled the head off #1 cylinder was badly rusted everywhere, ended up scrapping it all.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I've had small amounts of coolant pour into a couple 4 port 13Bs around here while swaping intakes. They all still runs so I guess I did something right.

slingo

well i took the plugs out and pumped it over a few times, it turned over smoothly and gave 3 noises like its supposed to (i call them wooshes even though they are more like PSHHHH blowing air out the plug holes... the trailing spark plug had a little bit of green coolant on it but i watched while i pumped it around and it didnt have any coolant spit out of it so i guess its ok .. ill put some MMO on there for good measure..

gamble302

yes mmo solves any problem. ask denny. where is denny anyways?