I was just wondering if anyone here had rebuilt a 12a and 13b engine? Was there any difference in difficulty?

Plus if your going to port the engine do you just buy a rebuild kit while your at it or do you try and use the oringinal parts?

 

i never have gotten the ***** to rebuild one. I just pay the guy in neosho to do them. He does nice work. You might want to call hime he is the midwest shop listing. He is the rotory doctor

jr

 

Yeah, I'm familiar with him. I'm not doing one in the near future, but I do want to do it myself. (whenever that time comes) I just wanted to know if anyone on here has done it.

 

Regardless you will need the gasket kit with the coolant o-rings and such. But if its a good compression, good running engine, you can reuse the hard seals if you make sure to put them back in their respective places.

 

I have done two, ported both. One I just changed seals and oil control rings. The other I did seals oil control rings, apex seals and springs.

One strange trick that I learned was to goop up the rotors with Vaseline as you put in the various seals and springs. Then I would put them in the fridge for an hour or so when I put them together. This would make the Vaseline turn really thing and hold the seals in place as you stack the engine together.

Good luck!

 

Sweet thanks.

 

i wasn't aware that vaseline would simply burn off, hah

 

its "petroleum jelly". it should.

(trying to look smart)

 

I heard from a little bird that you can use super glue to hold the seals in place. Not a lot, but a few drops at the ends. Has any one else heard about this?

 

Not speaking from experience, but I'd use Elmers if I were to use glue at all.

I'd be more comfortable using candle wax.

 

You use it on old apex seals to hold the corner piece on. Not to hold the seal in the rotor.

 

Yeah, there is a thread floating around here somewhere, where a member used super glue and it got stuck to one of the housings.

 

I have a 13B and i thought i was goin to rebuild but now i don't think i will. Sorry

 

Who wrote that last post. He is a moron. Who cares if he was goin to. He didn't did he

 

I don't know if I'd put rotors in the fridge before assembly. Well, I guess it doesn't matter too much. But people know what pressed fit means.

When you put a new bearing sleeve on a rotor/stationary gear, its preferable to chill the bearing that will be pressed on and have the rotor quite warm. This is due to the heat expansion ofcourse, it goes in easy when the rotor is warm because the hole is larger, and a cold sleeve is smaller then normal. When they equalize in temp the fit will be VERY tight, as its supposed to be ofcourse. But I doubt this is going to be a problem with mildly cool rotors being placed in a engine, and since it takes a while to clinch the tension bolts anyway. And ofcourse, the rotors are narrower then the rotor housings ofcourse, so I'm just mumbling anyway. Ah well, just thinking.

FYI, I use plain old grease to hold rotor parts on the rotors till I put it together. I use a special glue on my inner/outer rotor housing rings, but only with in 1hr prior to assembly so the glue is still lightly oozing so it will have no gaps in there. Also, I use flat surfaces to press on the seals of each rotor housing to make them stick very well prior to putting it together. Makes final short block assembly a 15minute breeze.

 

13Bs are the same as 12As just a lil bigger