theDevilX

As per the title.
I've found plenty of info on wiring, but not a lot on switches.
I swapped to an E-Fan setup as my clutched was not performing correctly.However its currently manually switched from inside the car, which isn't ideal.

I fitted one of the eBay specials rads, which in fairness is pretty good quality and fitted pretty well, however for some inexplicable reason they used a 3/8 BSPP thread for the fan switch mounting location, I can't get any switch to fit that thread and any there are no suitable adaptor fittings available. I tried one setup but apart from sticking 10 miles out from the radiator it also tried to seal on the face of the thermoswitch. No good.


I've found tons of info on the wiring side, but where are you guys mounting the switches?
I've got an alloy FC waterpump on the shelf in the garage, should I just drill & tap this or is there a better location?

tim.

iTrader: (1)

When I did my electric fan conversion I wanted the thermoswitch on the lower rad hose because the rad is downflow. I used an inline hose adapter.
It works well, the fan never turns on if the car is moving, it cycles on and off if the car sits still.

theDevilX

Hmm that might be a good idea, its fairly out of sight as well.
I've seen those inline adaptors for sale so I'll have a look for one tomorrow.

I just assumed that directly on the pump / engine somewhere would be best.

GSLSEforme

I was going to suggest the same type of in hose adapter for fan thermosensor but recommend putting in upper radiator hose for more accurate sensing of actual engineoperating temperature.
Putting fan thermosensor in back of water pump housing would be my 1st choice. Putting sensor in upper hose would be faster and not require a teardown.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Here's what I did:



It's for a second opinion temp gauge however, not a efan:





I've got a clutch fan, They cool much better than efans.

Carl

iTrader: (2)

I did the same thing as Ray Green for the temp switch in my race car. I also just installed my mechanical temperature gauge in the back of the water pump housing. The bung on the housing is M16x1.5. Jegs sells adapters to mechanical gauges (5/8" UNF) and also one with 1/8" NPT. There might be others too.

Carl

theDevilX

I'm based in Europe so I'll try and source something a little bit more locally. But are you saying there's already a bung on the waterpump housing that I can use with the correct adaptor?

GSLSEforme

In the original configuration with Nikki carb and choke mechanism there is a thermosensor in back of water pump housing for the choke cable mechanism.
It controls the electromagnet inside the choke **** assembly to release the choke cable when engine warms enough to no longer require the choke.

Hugehuman

Mounting it in the water pump housing would be best I think. I didnt have that option so I used a probe and mounted it in the fins closest to the top rad hose and it works great. You should check aaron cakes write up. https://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/efaninstall.htm

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I agree, below the radiator makes more sense. That way when the temp at the lower hose goes up to whatever level, then you know the radiator needs help by turning the fan on. If its in the top position it may or may not work well if the tstat has an issue and it may allow the block water temp to get too hot if blocked for some reason.

My efans are on all the time unless I'm in 4th or 5th gear. Been working well for me. I am toying with the idea of adding a thermo switch.