1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Drum brake locks after bleeding

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Old Oct 25, 2020 | 04:38 AM
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Drum brake locks after bleeding

I did a couple of different searches but didn't find much info so here I am.

I bled the brakes ('85 S) at all corners and pedal pressure is great, but now the passenger rear drum (I think) is locking. Is there any way to get it unlocked? I've tried to pull and release the hand brake a couple of times and still no luck.

Any help or tips to get it free is appreciated.
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Old Oct 25, 2020 | 09:08 AM
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Try the self adjuster on that brake.
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Old Oct 26, 2020 | 04:32 AM
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Is there a way I should be adjusting it? The threads I've read say to remove wheel, loosen 17mm nut (might be 18mm), then turn star bolt to adjust the brake shoe.

Not sure if this is the right way to adjust it and if it is, how many turns should I make and in what direction?
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Old Oct 26, 2020 | 04:08 PM
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You don't need to remove the wheel BUT it's a lot easier. removing a wheel is incredibly easy . Some of you guys are gonna kill me for saying this but it doesn't matter what direction you turn the screw, it " loops". I suggest you turn it until it locks or scrapes the most when turning then turn it until it locks again counting how many turns you do. Once you reach the lock/ scrape point turn and stop halfway between whatever number you counted. This should be the most "open" position. You might need to readjust it to be closer but that's how I did it and i haven't had any issues .
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Old Oct 27, 2020 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Frogman
You don't need to remove the wheel BUT it's a lot easier. removing a wheel is incredibly easy . Some of you guys are gonna kill me for saying this but it doesn't matter what direction you turn the screw, it " loops". I suggest you turn it until it locks or scrapes the most when turning then turn it until it locks again counting how many turns you do. Once you reach the lock/ scrape point turn and stop halfway between whatever number you counted. This should be the most "open" position. You might need to readjust it to be closer but that's how I did it and i haven't had any issues .
Thanks, I'll give that a try.
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Old Oct 29, 2020 | 06:51 AM
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At first thought, I feel ad though the wheel cylinder on the right rear has a sticking piston causing on or both of the shoes to drag. I would pull the drum once the wheel is unlocked and inspect the wheel cylinder for leakage or a sticking piston.
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Old Oct 31, 2020 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
At first thought, I feel ad though the wheel cylinder on the right rear has a sticking piston causing on or both of the shoes to drag. I would pull the drum once the wheel is unlocked and inspect the wheel cylinder for leakage or a sticking piston.
When I have time I'll look into this. If there's a leak would I see oil on the exterior of the drum?
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Old Nov 2, 2020 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BADRX7
When I have time I'll look into this. If there's a leak would I see oil on the exterior of the drum?
Yes. Changing those calipers is incredibly easy too.
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Old Nov 3, 2020 | 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Frogman
Yes. Changing those calipers is incredibly easy too.
From what I've read, it gets easier changing the calipers after you've done it a couple of times but by the 4th time of changing it you're ready to swap over to disc.
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Old Nov 5, 2020 | 01:35 AM
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Id say changing drums is about twice as hard but considering it took me about 3 hours to do both disks and about 5 to do both drums ( and i changed everything i could minus the actual drum housing ) , its not that bad ,
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