Drum brake locks after bleeding
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Drum brake locks after bleeding
I did a couple of different searches but didn't find much info so here I am.
I bled the brakes ('85 S) at all corners and pedal pressure is great, but now the passenger rear drum (I think) is locking. Is there any way to get it unlocked? I've tried to pull and release the hand brake a couple of times and still no luck.
Any help or tips to get it free is appreciated.
I bled the brakes ('85 S) at all corners and pedal pressure is great, but now the passenger rear drum (I think) is locking. Is there any way to get it unlocked? I've tried to pull and release the hand brake a couple of times and still no luck.
Any help or tips to get it free is appreciated.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Is there a way I should be adjusting it? The threads I've read say to remove wheel, loosen 17mm nut (might be 18mm), then turn star bolt to adjust the brake shoe.
Not sure if this is the right way to adjust it and if it is, how many turns should I make and in what direction?
Not sure if this is the right way to adjust it and if it is, how many turns should I make and in what direction?
#4
Senior Newbie Member
You don't need to remove the wheel BUT it's a lot easier. removing a wheel is incredibly easy . Some of you guys are gonna kill me for saying this but it doesn't matter what direction you turn the screw, it " loops". I suggest you turn it until it locks or scrapes the most when turning then turn it until it locks again counting how many turns you do. Once you reach the lock/ scrape point turn and stop halfway between whatever number you counted. This should be the most "open" position. You might need to readjust it to be closer but that's how I did it and i haven't had any issues .
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You don't need to remove the wheel BUT it's a lot easier. removing a wheel is incredibly easy . Some of you guys are gonna kill me for saying this but it doesn't matter what direction you turn the screw, it " loops". I suggest you turn it until it locks or scrapes the most when turning then turn it until it locks again counting how many turns you do. Once you reach the lock/ scrape point turn and stop halfway between whatever number you counted. This should be the most "open" position. You might need to readjust it to be closer but that's how I did it and i haven't had any issues .
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
When I have time I'll look into this. If there's a leak would I see oil on the exterior of the drum?
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#9
Senior Member
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#10
Senior Newbie Member
Id say changing drums is about twice as hard but considering it took me about 3 hours to do both disks and about 5 to do both drums ( and i changed everything i could minus the actual drum housing ) , its not that bad ,
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2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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04-17-09 09:32 AM