Driveshaft Removal - Rust Welded?
#1
Junior Member
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Driveshaft Removal - Rust Welded?
So I am removing the driveshaft from my '83 Rx7 and I already pulled the engine and transmission off of the driveshaft and out of the car. The driveshaft is not only connected to the vehicle at the rear axle. I have attached a photo of what it looks like.
I have removed the four bolts holding the driveshaft flange to the differential. It will not budge an inch from the diff. I have attempted to hit the driveshaft with a mallet to free it. I have tried soaking it in PB Blaster (generic penetrant). Nothing will get the driveshaft off of the diff. I simply cannot pull it harder than I have already tried. I tried using a jack to lift the driveshaft by the rear u-joint in an effort to break the two loose. No luck, the car will literally lift up with the driveshaft still stuck to the diff by what I assume must just be rust welding. Any tips/tricks for what to do here? I could try a flame or something but I just cleaned to floors so I don't want to cause a chemical fire at the moment.
You can see in the photo that I've already pulled the 4 bolts from the driveshaft... it is still stuck in place.
I have removed the four bolts holding the driveshaft flange to the differential. It will not budge an inch from the diff. I have attempted to hit the driveshaft with a mallet to free it. I have tried soaking it in PB Blaster (generic penetrant). Nothing will get the driveshaft off of the diff. I simply cannot pull it harder than I have already tried. I tried using a jack to lift the driveshaft by the rear u-joint in an effort to break the two loose. No luck, the car will literally lift up with the driveshaft still stuck to the diff by what I assume must just be rust welding. Any tips/tricks for what to do here? I could try a flame or something but I just cleaned to floors so I don't want to cause a chemical fire at the moment.
You can see in the photo that I've already pulled the 4 bolts from the driveshaft... it is still stuck in place.
#2
Senior Member
tap it with a hammer
#3
HeyHeyHey..Its the Goose
iTrader: (3)
A pry bar will fit in the gap between the u joint and the pinion. You can pry it off pretty easy. Might not be too well for the u joint, but neither is beating on it with a hammer.
EDIT: I see now your trans is out. Just walk the drive shaft from side to side. Shoot that's a good enough pry bar as any.
EDIT: I see now your trans is out. Just walk the drive shaft from side to side. Shoot that's a good enough pry bar as any.
Last edited by Qingdao; 04-03-20 at 09:33 PM.
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#9
Happy Rotoring!
iTrader: (13)
Dead blows are good for seating things together. They absorb part of the striking energy and are less prone to bouncing. The weight / power of a brass head, sends a penetrating shock through parts, which helps separate parts that have corroded and grown together over time.
#10
acdelco d1906 Nkg 49034
if the hammer and chisel doesn't work, the last resort is heat. Get a >FIRE EXTINGUISHER< and a propane benzomatic torch or a MAPP torch (if you want to nuke it). The penetrating oil is flammable. I'd spray thing down with a heavy detergent and rinse everything off first. Get it good and hot, then wack it with the hammer and chisel.
Then there's always oxy-acetylene. You can cut steel with that.
Befoe you do all that, try a cigarette lighter with the FIRE EXTINGUISHER near.
Then there's always oxy-acetylene. You can cut steel with that.
Befoe you do all that, try a cigarette lighter with the FIRE EXTINGUISHER near.
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Lotus00
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