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Driveshaft Removal - Rust Welded?

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Old 04-03-20, 07:14 PM
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Driveshaft Removal - Rust Welded?

So I am removing the driveshaft from my '83 Rx7 and I already pulled the engine and transmission off of the driveshaft and out of the car. The driveshaft is not only connected to the vehicle at the rear axle. I have attached a photo of what it looks like.

I have removed the four bolts holding the driveshaft flange to the differential. It will not budge an inch from the diff. I have attempted to hit the driveshaft with a mallet to free it. I have tried soaking it in PB Blaster (generic penetrant). Nothing will get the driveshaft off of the diff. I simply cannot pull it harder than I have already tried. I tried using a jack to lift the driveshaft by the rear u-joint in an effort to break the two loose. No luck, the car will literally lift up with the driveshaft still stuck to the diff by what I assume must just be rust welding. Any tips/tricks for what to do here? I could try a flame or something but I just cleaned to floors so I don't want to cause a chemical fire at the moment.

You can see in the photo that I've already pulled the 4 bolts from the driveshaft... it is still stuck in place.


Old 04-03-20, 08:50 PM
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tap it with a hammer
Old 04-03-20, 09:31 PM
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A pry bar will fit in the gap between the u joint and the pinion. You can pry it off pretty easy. Might not be too well for the u joint, but neither is beating on it with a hammer.


EDIT: I see now your trans is out. Just walk the drive shaft from side to side. Shoot that's a good enough pry bar as any.

Last edited by Qingdao; 04-03-20 at 09:33 PM.
Old 04-03-20, 09:42 PM
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^ what he said. Also, a cold chisel in that gap and a bfh
Old 04-04-20, 06:46 AM
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Had the same issue when I removed my original driveshaft.

A small chisel and hammer worked very well to seperate the flange. It will deform the surfaces slightly so clean them up after with a file.
Old 04-04-20, 11:08 AM
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I sanded both sides of the flange after getting it off. I then put anti seize on it to prevent that in the future.

I used a chisel as well.
Old 04-05-20, 08:14 AM
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I'm always reluctant to recommend hammer mechanics, but a few good solid raps with a big brass hammer would help bust it loose. The weight of the brass gives it power while its also softer than the steel to help prevent damage.
Old 04-05-20, 09:56 AM
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You can also try a dead blow hammer. Gives a good 2 for one hit.
Old 04-05-20, 11:12 AM
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Dead blows are good for seating things together. They absorb part of the striking energy and are less prone to bouncing. The weight / power of a brass head, sends a penetrating shock through parts, which helps separate parts that have corroded and grown together over time.
Old 04-07-20, 07:05 PM
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if the hammer and chisel doesn't work, the last resort is heat. Get a >FIRE EXTINGUISHER< and a propane benzomatic torch or a MAPP torch (if you want to nuke it). The penetrating oil is flammable. I'd spray thing down with a heavy detergent and rinse everything off first. Get it good and hot, then wack it with the hammer and chisel.

Then there's always oxy-acetylene. You can cut steel with that.

Befoe you do all that, try a cigarette lighter with the FIRE EXTINGUISHER near.
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