I know that this information is already out there, but I like to see success stories every once in a while.

So, initial conditions:

- 1983 Rx-7 GSL (aka Betsy) with fresh rebuild and 3000 miles on the rebuild (broken in)
- Same year Dizzy
- Some electrical knowledge (I am an Instructor for Nuclear Instrumentation and Controls)
- The wiring diagrams for my car (Huge props to foxed)
- Large desire to know more about all parts in FB's

Following all the instructions on various posts (Jeff20B, t_g_farrell, bikeordie092, lots more) I managed to wire it up in a day.

I used the large Black/white wire as the trip for the relay, and the battery power is through the stock 3 fuses on the strut tower.

The condenser is just attached to the (+) on the trailing coil, which in turn is wired in parallel to all (+) on the coils.

The tach is using the stock location on the (-) for the trailing coil.

One sticking point seems to be if the G lead on the igniter goes to the green or red wire in the mag pickup for the dizzy (same with the W lead). Well I put the G to the red wire and it seems to work. I did switch it for experimentation and the tach signal acted erratically. Based on the wiring diagram the leading pickup is located roughly at the 9 o'clock position when looking at the engine from the drivers side. Thus trailing at 12 o'clock.

Which brings me to 1 of 2 questions I have:

1) I am assuming that if wired such that the tach goes crazy that this is incorrect (the start up and idle had no real differences). Is this assumption correct?

2) In the videos you can hopefully hear the mysterious ticking sound (it's not a pipe bomb). It's hard to pinpoint the location, but it seems to be coming from the alternator (1985 alt) water pump location.

Please ignore me talking in the videos, I sound real stupid.

 

Polarity of wiring from pickup coil(s) in distributor to ignitor should be observed. They are a pulse generator that develops an AC voltage signal with a specific signature(waveform) the ignitor uses to fire coil at appropriate time. Reversing the wires from pickup to ignitor will still fire coil but off the wrong end of signal and not at exact right time. Ticking noise not coming from alternator,likely from inside distributor cap as a snapping noise as spark is trying to jump an ever widening gap as coil is being fired after the rotor has passed cap terminal. A timing light put on T1 plug wire will show how far the mark on crank pulley is from timing pin in front cover. To prove this out,with car running,disconnect either wire coming from distributor to trailing coil igniter and see if noise stops. The engine will run on leading ignition alone. Proper wire color orientation at ignitor : Red wire from pickup goes to G terminal and green to W trminal

 

If you reverse the dizzy singals to the ignitor(s), it will still run but as you saw, the tach acts goofy and it will not run as well when you accelerate. Like GSLE says, that ticking noise is either a spark jumping a large gap or a crack in the cap such that its grounding out. Try running it in the dark to make sure its not a stray leakage from the dizzy cap.

 

Thank you guys. I guess I forgot to mention that after switching the leads, I went back to the original of G = red and W = green (I was just experimenting to see what would happen). Also the ticking noise was present before i changed to DLIDFIS, so i will check to see if there is arching tonight. I was just looking at the pictures I uploaded and I didn't realize that I didn't rotate them, sorry for the sore necks

 

I did some fiddling. With the power completely removed from the dizzy the ticking still continues. Also ran the car in the dark and found no leakage from the dizzy or plug wires. The search continues.

 

With engine running and noise present,use long screwdriver put tip onto alternator,water pump,rotor housings,dist.everything in the area -other end to your ear. This will help narrow down the source of the noise.
Another option is to use a length of heater hose in same manner,my personal preference is screwdriver. I have a stethoscope but for quick & dirty screwdriver works well.