My DLIDFIS Install "Write Up"
05-21-03, 09:31 PM
#1
My DLIDFIS Install "Write Up"
Well, I guess this isnt much of a write up but I just decided to tell you people out there in "internet land" how I managed to make this work. I had read Jeff20Bs website (found HERE) and decidedthat I could manage this task myself, as I had all the parts and tools necessary to build this little setup, the only problem was that a lot of the information was just that. Information, not direction. So Im now attempting to write more specifically how I personally built MY setup, as to maybe help other people who need the more "step by step" directions. As of now I dont have any pictures yet, but I will add on to this thread after I get some pictures to help illustrate what I did as Im not very good with writing. Anyway, on to the "write up":
First I started by thuroughly reading Jeffs website (linked above). Then, after I decided that i had the concept well in hand, I began the work.
I started by creating the ignitor "plate" as I call it. I used two pieces of 2"x2"x1/8" angle aluminum put together to make a "U" shape because I didnt have any pieces that were flat. The pieces are about 5" - 6" long each, so theres plenty of mass and surface area for an effective heatsink. I drilled two holes for each ignitor for mounting, as well as holes behind the ignitors so I could get to the terminals on the back. The ignitors are mounted so that one hole from each ignitor is on either piece of aluminum, so they act as a bridge across the gap where the two pieces meet and hold the two pieces together. After that was done, I drilled holes for the screws that will hold the "plate" to the body under the hood, and that was about it for the "plate". be sure to use plenty of heatsink compound (found at radioshack in small tubes) on the ignitors. Even withthe size of my "plate", its still gets semi warm to the touch. You definatly dont want to fry an ignitor
.
So, after the plate was done, it was time to move onto wiring. I figured the coils would be easier, so I left them to last. I decided to wire the pickups for the ignitors. I started that by removing the leading ignitor from the distributor. I then needed something that would fit in the "plug" left on the dizzy housing. Then, remembering what I read on Jeffs site, and what he had done, I used an old dead ignitor. So, to do that, I pulled the back plate off the ignitor, gutted all the insides, then soldered small jumper wires from the terminals on the inside that plug into the distributor, to the terminals on the inside that connect to the prongs on the top for the plug. So it ended up that G goes to B, and S goes to C (I think
) Then, I just hammered the back plate on, and screwed the "ignitor" back onto the dizzy. This allows me to use the stock plug for the leading ignitor to connect wires to and run to the ignitor "plate" that i had made.
Following Jeffs wiring diagram, I ran a length of Cat 3 shielded cable from the two wires coming out of the leading ignitor plug (on the dizzy), to the terminals on the back of both of the new leading ignitors observing proper polarity. I used small crimp connectors that I modified and soldered on the Cat 3 wire to connect to the plugs on the back of the leading ignitors on the "plate". I had also made a small jumper wire to go from the first ignitor to the second (because they share the same pickup signal). So now both ignitors are wired together (S to S, and G to G), and wired to the pickups inside the dizzy.
After that, I just needed to wire the coils up. So, I ran wires from the B terminals on the leading ignitors to the "+" on the coils, and the C on the ignitors to the "-" on the coils. This is where I wasnt too sure how it should be wired. Jeffs diagram shows that the ignitors need the switched 12V in the B terminals, and the C terminals is what actually fires the coils. So, I guess you could hook all the B terminals to one "+" terminal using jumper wires to power all three coils, and you would be ok as long as you have each C terminal going to its own "-" terminal on the coils. So three ignitors, three coils, one ignitor per coil, one C terminal per "-" terminal. Like I said, this is gonna be kinda confusing as I suck at writing and explaining. Just read Jeffs site and look at his wiring diagram and it might make more sense.
I also opted to build a new harness for the trailing ignitor as stated on Jeffs site. I butchered the stock harness and rebuilt it one wire at a time. I chose to do it this was because Im sure this car isnt going back to stock, and even if it ever did, I have a parts car that still has everything I cut or messed up. Building the new harness was fairly easy, I just ran new wires from the trailing ignitor to the coil (B to "+", C to "-"), made sure the condensor in between the vacuum pots had switched power form the igniton going to it (I just used the stock wire that went to it), and thats about all there was to that.
To get the keyed power to the coils, I used one of the original power wires that went to the stock coils. One of the power wires is shared to about 10 different things (ok, so maybe not 10) in the old system that are now eliminated, and the other one seems to be all on its own. Im not sure why they are the way they are, but I decided for simplicity I would use the one that was all by itself. So, I just put the ring terminal already on the end of that wire (as it used to power the stock coils) onto one of the "+" terminals of my coils. Since all three of my coils are connected by jumper wires, I only needed this power wire on one "+" terminal.
So, now that I was sure everything was wired correctly, I turned the key on (without trying to start the car) and checked for power on all coil terminals and what not (as described on Jeffs site). After making sure that it was all correct, I tried to start the car. It fired right up, but was running really rough. I couldnt for the life of me figure out why. It ended up just being bad solder connections on the pickup wires and terminals on the back of the leading ignitors. After those were repaired, it purrs like a kitten and revs nice and smooth. The throttle response off idle is so much better. Before there was a small bog or hesitation if you werent too careful with the throttle revving up from an idle. With the DLIDFIS installed and working properly now, that it about 95% gone. So, for what it cost me (about $5 in connectors, heat shrink tubing, and wire), I think its an excellent modification.
~T.J.
PS - you may find out that since you are building a new harness for the leading ignitor, the old harness is no longer used, as well as some other power wires and what not. I just left these other wires out of the way (making sure they wouldnt short out) until after I had made sure the car would start in case I needed to use them. After the car started and all the problems were worked out, I just cut them all back and taped them off and tucked them away neatly inside the harness they came out of.
PPS - This is my disclaimer... I take no responsbility for anything you do to your car whatsoever. Im just telling you how I did mine, and if anything in here is wrong or messes anything up, its not my fault if you **** your car up. Please be sure you understand everything you have to do before you try and do it . If you have any questions, you can post them here, or PM me. I will try and answer them as best as possible .
First I started by thuroughly reading Jeffs website (linked above). Then, after I decided that i had the concept well in hand, I began the work.
I started by creating the ignitor "plate" as I call it. I used two pieces of 2"x2"x1/8" angle aluminum put together to make a "U" shape because I didnt have any pieces that were flat. The pieces are about 5" - 6" long each, so theres plenty of mass and surface area for an effective heatsink. I drilled two holes for each ignitor for mounting, as well as holes behind the ignitors so I could get to the terminals on the back. The ignitors are mounted so that one hole from each ignitor is on either piece of aluminum, so they act as a bridge across the gap where the two pieces meet and hold the two pieces together. After that was done, I drilled holes for the screws that will hold the "plate" to the body under the hood, and that was about it for the "plate". be sure to use plenty of heatsink compound (found at radioshack in small tubes) on the ignitors. Even withthe size of my "plate", its still gets semi warm to the touch. You definatly dont want to fry an ignitor
.So, after the plate was done, it was time to move onto wiring. I figured the coils would be easier, so I left them to last. I decided to wire the pickups for the ignitors. I started that by removing the leading ignitor from the distributor. I then needed something that would fit in the "plug" left on the dizzy housing. Then, remembering what I read on Jeffs site, and what he had done, I used an old dead ignitor. So, to do that, I pulled the back plate off the ignitor, gutted all the insides, then soldered small jumper wires from the terminals on the inside that plug into the distributor, to the terminals on the inside that connect to the prongs on the top for the plug. So it ended up that G goes to B, and S goes to C (I think
) Then, I just hammered the back plate on, and screwed the "ignitor" back onto the dizzy. This allows me to use the stock plug for the leading ignitor to connect wires to and run to the ignitor "plate" that i had made.Following Jeffs wiring diagram, I ran a length of Cat 3 shielded cable from the two wires coming out of the leading ignitor plug (on the dizzy), to the terminals on the back of both of the new leading ignitors observing proper polarity. I used small crimp connectors that I modified and soldered on the Cat 3 wire to connect to the plugs on the back of the leading ignitors on the "plate". I had also made a small jumper wire to go from the first ignitor to the second (because they share the same pickup signal). So now both ignitors are wired together (S to S, and G to G), and wired to the pickups inside the dizzy.
After that, I just needed to wire the coils up. So, I ran wires from the B terminals on the leading ignitors to the "+" on the coils, and the C on the ignitors to the "-" on the coils. This is where I wasnt too sure how it should be wired. Jeffs diagram shows that the ignitors need the switched 12V in the B terminals, and the C terminals is what actually fires the coils. So, I guess you could hook all the B terminals to one "+" terminal using jumper wires to power all three coils, and you would be ok as long as you have each C terminal going to its own "-" terminal on the coils. So three ignitors, three coils, one ignitor per coil, one C terminal per "-" terminal. Like I said, this is gonna be kinda confusing as I suck at writing and explaining. Just read Jeffs site and look at his wiring diagram and it might make more sense
.I also opted to build a new harness for the trailing ignitor as stated on Jeffs site. I butchered the stock harness and rebuilt it one wire at a time. I chose to do it this was because Im sure this car isnt going back to stock, and even if it ever did, I have a parts car that still has everything I cut or messed up
. Building the new harness was fairly easy, I just ran new wires from the trailing ignitor to the coil (B to "+", C to "-"), made sure the condensor in between the vacuum pots had switched power form the igniton going to it (I just used the stock wire that went to it), and thats about all there was to that.To get the keyed power to the coils, I used one of the original power wires that went to the stock coils. One of the power wires is shared to about 10 different things (ok, so maybe not 10
) in the old system that are now eliminated, and the other one seems to be all on its own. Im not sure why they are the way they are, but I decided for simplicity I would use the one that was all by itself. So, I just put the ring terminal already on the end of that wire (as it used to power the stock coils) onto one of the "+" terminals of my coils. Since all three of my coils are connected by jumper wires, I only needed this power wire on one "+" terminal.So, now that I was sure everything was wired correctly, I turned the key on (without trying to start the car) and checked for power on all coil terminals and what not (as described on Jeffs site). After making sure that it was all correct, I tried to start the car. It fired right up, but was running really rough. I couldnt for the life of me figure out why. It ended up just being bad solder connections on the pickup wires and terminals on the back of the leading ignitors. After those were repaired, it purrs like a kitten and revs nice and smooth. The throttle response off idle is so much better. Before there was a small bog or hesitation if you werent too careful with the throttle revving up from an idle. With the DLIDFIS installed and working properly now, that it about 95% gone. So, for what it cost me (about $5 in connectors, heat shrink tubing, and wire), I think its an excellent modification.
~T.J.
PS - you may find out that since you are building a new harness for the leading ignitor, the old harness is no longer used, as well as some other power wires and what not. I just left these other wires out of the way (making sure they wouldnt short out) until after I had made sure the car would start in case I needed to use them. After the car started and all the problems were worked out, I just cut them all back and taped them off and tucked them away neatly inside the harness they came out of.
PPS - This is my disclaimer... I take no responsbility for anything you do to your car whatsoever. Im just telling you how I did mine, and if anything in here is wrong or messes anything up, its not my fault if you **** your car up
. Please be sure you understand everything you have to do before you try and do it . If you have any questions, you can post them here, or PM me. I will try and answer them as best as possible .
05-21-03, 10:38 PM
#3
Great Job RotorMotorDriver.
We're always glad to see people willing to go the extra mile to take the confusion out of what was a PITA for some. If you wanna host this online, as a web tutorial with pictures, I have some webspace and would love to host it once I get my site up PM me if interested
Jon
We're always glad to see people willing to go the extra mile to take the confusion out of what was a PITA for some. If you wanna host this online, as a web tutorial with pictures, I have some webspace and would love to host it once I get my site up
PM me if interestedJon
05-21-03, 10:57 PM
#5
Boosted 7
nice job, i'd love to see some pics, I really wanna try this mod, but i'm a bit confused about the harnesses,
It would be awesome if you put up a tutorial site as well.
all, in all, good job, i'm glad its working out ok for you.
and last thing, do you feel any difference in low end torque.
It would be awesome if you put up a tutorial site as well.
all, in all, good job, i'm glad its working out ok for you.
and last thing, do you feel any difference in low end torque.
05-22-03, 01:33 AM
#7
Thanks for the compliments, guys. I'm glad it could be of some use for you.
As for writing anymore of a tutorial than what this already is, I'm not sure I'm the right person. I'll take some pictures to help out some more with what I wrote, but other than that, I don't think I'll put much more effort into this.
As for overall torque/power, it feels a little better although, I'm not sure it's truly a large increase if any at all. However, overall throttle responce and engine revving seem to be quicker and smoother which could give the impression of more power. I feel that acceleration from a stop through the gears has smoothed out, although this could be simply because of the improved throttle responce when applying throttle after changing gears. So basically, the overall driveability of the car has improved and for the first time since using the stock carb, I managed to get 18 MPG, and that's still without resetting the timing, or adjusting the carb from before the DLIDFIS installation.
~T.J.
As for writing anymore of a tutorial than what this already is, I'm not sure I'm the right person. I'll take some pictures to help out some more with what I wrote, but other than that, I don't think I'll put much more effort into this.
As for overall torque/power, it feels a little better although, I'm not sure it's truly a large increase if any at all. However, overall throttle responce and engine revving seem to be quicker and smoother which could give the impression of more power. I feel that acceleration from a stop through the gears has smoothed out, although this could be simply because of the improved throttle responce when applying throttle after changing gears. So basically, the overall driveability of the car has improved and for the first time since using the stock carb, I managed to get 18 MPG, and that's still without resetting the timing, or adjusting the carb from before the DLIDFIS installation.
~T.J.
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06-11-03, 05:39 PM
#8
Ok, well I finally got some pictures taken. They just show the overall look of the install.
Heres a picture of the coils in their bracket with the wiring and all that good stuff:
Heres a picture showing the ignitor plate I made. Here you can see what I mean when I said it was made out of two pieces of angle stock to make a "U" shape.
This picture just shows the overall look from the other side.
Heres a picture showing the "ignitor" I built. This the one thats gutted and only used to get the pickup signals out of the dizzy.
So there you have it. Please excuse the dirty engine bay, I havent gotten around to cleaning it lately, and Im in the process of swapping to black split loom from the yellow.
~T.J.
Heres a picture of the coils in their bracket with the wiring and all that good stuff:
Heres a picture showing the ignitor plate I made. Here you can see what I mean when I said it was made out of two pieces of angle stock to make a "U" shape.
This picture just shows the overall look from the other side.
Heres a picture showing the "ignitor" I built. This the one thats gutted and only used to get the pickup signals out of the dizzy.
So there you have it. Please excuse the dirty engine bay, I havent gotten around to cleaning it lately, and Im in the process of swapping to black split loom from the yellow
.~T.J.
06-12-03, 12:21 AM
#9
That's cool how the ignitors are on the two peices of angle stock. I've got to go pick up some developed pictures tomorrow. Then I can scan 'em and post what my rotary MG Midget's DLIDFIS install looks like.
Last edited by Jeff20B; 06-12-03 at 12:36 AM.
06-12-03, 12:54 PM
#12
I dunno, I might keep it. I have the black just laying around, and I thought I would cover stuff with it while I had it, and I kinda like the look. I would have had to buy more yellow since the yellow I had was put on specific harnesses and cant really be re-used. Maybe Ill do yellow again, I dont know. I was thinking about a black and white engine bay to match the black and white look the rest of the car will have later...
~T.J.
~T.J.
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