One of the OEM J-109 igniters is dead, so instead of replacing it; I've been thinking about the HEI mod. Cheap and easy to find, in fact Advanced Auto Parts sell them with a lifetime warranty

The questions is, how many guys (or girls) out there are running HEI igniters? After doing some research; I found that HEI is mentioned everywhere, kind of like a theory but not too many real life results

This is the only real hard data I've found so far; but it seems he had issues at the end:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=igniters

Anybody else running HEI igniters?

 

I've got them on my FB, running leading and trailing for direct fire. My tach works fine. My car doesn't run often, but when it does I don't have any problems with it. I'm currently building up a motor for it, so it'll run a lot more after that.

 

theres j109 igniters on ebay for like 30bucks...

all i can say is it worked....
but caused some tach issues
i never tryed it enough to know how well it works but it worked so maybe someone will have some results

 

I have HEIs on my SE, no problems.

 

Don't ask for ignitors, ask for ignition modules. They are only called "ignitors" on imports, real cars have ignition modules.

 

Did you followed the instructions mentioned above? or some other way?

Thanks!

 

For $30 bucks? is that the norm, or a hit and miss? Sorry, I am new to the e dist world

 

Pic don't work


Did you followed the instructions mentioned above? or some other way?

Thanks!

 

Thanks for the clarification!


BTW - REAL cars use CAS

 

Real cars don't come with pink elephants driving.

 

I am not pink and hardly an elephant

Come on, you should know how to convert to the GM ignition modules; hook me up with some instructions

 

just use what i wrote
it says what way they have to bee hooked up
just try one on leading for now and a j109 on the trailing..


here ya go

step 2
wiring as you see self explanitory main things you have to take note is
on the igniters theres 4 tabs b,c one side and w,g on the other
g-red on the distributor(remove steal cap off dizzy to see the wires)
w-green on the distributor
as i understand reds negitive and green is positive
use the .250" conneters and fold the spade in half to make a tight fit on the dizzy
this applys to both leading and trailing


for b&c on the igniters
b=positive
c=negitive

so obivosuly black wire from coil is positive
and yelow is negivtive

 

Cool, I thought you ended up having issues with your setup; if not I will go with that method

 

i did but it may have been caused by coroded stock wires as i still had some weird issues after

but i just posted that cause its how there wired up.....

 

What's wrong with pic?

The only idea I really borrowed was gutting two j109s and jumping the internal pins so they can be used as connectors. I fabricated the wiring based on the stock schematics. W and G pins connect to the dist., B and C go to the coils. Mounting the modules to the strut tower the way I did was something I just came up with. When I first fired it up my timing was 90* off. Jeff20b suggested I switch the B and C pins, it worked.

 

I think I suggested switching the W and G pins. It got the best of me once as well. The timing light showed it was way off. I think the reason I screwed it up is because I figured the G terminal of the HEI was the same as the G terminal of the J-109, but it actually wasn't. I honsetly don't recall though.

I've got some HEIs sitting here. When I hook them up, I'll try it both ways and go with whichever works correctly.

 

I get a red X instead of the pic

thanks for the info

 

No thinking required, you did!. Looks like I should have pulled up my post containing your advice to make sure I have my facts correct. Now I have to know why the timing difference between the two units.

 

Ok, so we finally tried this setup...

Its a 79 car, so we were trying to upgrade from points to electronic ignition and swith to HEI. The car would start instantly, leadings where on point; however we could not get the timing light to pick up a reding from the trailings. On our troubleshooting, we discoverred the the MSD blaster was receiving signal and they were sending the spark; but for some reason the spark was not being picked up by the destributor. We ended up buying a brand new rotor and cap, and still the spark would not jump to the rotor (it would to any ground surface).

Also, the tach was erratic; and the engine would not rev past 4,000 rpms or so. Any help is greatly appreciated

BTW - We call it a night, when we discovered that the air gaps on the e distributor were not equal