GM Igniters (HEI)?
#1
GM Igniters (HEI)?
One of the OEM J-109 igniters is dead, so instead of replacing it; I've been thinking about the HEI mod. Cheap and easy to find, in fact Advanced Auto Parts sell them with a lifetime warranty
The questions is, how many guys (or girls) out there are running HEI igniters? After doing some research; I found that HEI is mentioned everywhere, kind of like a theory but not too many real life results
This is the only real hard data I've found so far; but it seems he had issues at the end:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=igniters
Anybody else running HEI igniters?
The questions is, how many guys (or girls) out there are running HEI igniters? After doing some research; I found that HEI is mentioned everywhere, kind of like a theory but not too many real life results
This is the only real hard data I've found so far; but it seems he had issues at the end:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=igniters
Anybody else running HEI igniters?
#2
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I've got them on my FB, running leading and trailing for direct fire. My tach works fine. My car doesn't run often, but when it does I don't have any problems with it. I'm currently building up a motor for it, so it'll run a lot more after that.
#6
Originally Posted by mr_ouija
I've got them on my FB, running leading and trailing for direct fire. My tach works fine. My car doesn't run often, but when it does I don't have any problems with it. I'm currently building up a motor for it, so it'll run a lot more after that.
Thanks!
#7
Originally Posted by blwfly
theres j109 igniters on ebay for like 30bucks...
all i can say is it worked....
but caused some tach issues
i never tryed it enough to know how well it works but it worked so maybe someone will have some results
all i can say is it worked....
but caused some tach issues
i never tryed it enough to know how well it works but it worked so maybe someone will have some results
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#12
kiwi from downunder..
iTrader: (4)
just use what i wrote
it says what way they have to bee hooked up
just try one on leading for now and a j109 on the trailing..
here ya go
step 2
wiring as you see self explanitory main things you have to take note is
on the igniters theres 4 tabs b,c one side and w,g on the other
g-red on the distributor(remove steal cap off dizzy to see the wires)
w-green on the distributor
as i understand reds negitive and green is positive
use the .250" conneters and fold the spade in half to make a tight fit on the dizzy
this applys to both leading and trailing
for b&c on the igniters
b=positive
c=negitive
so obivosuly black wire from coil is positive
and yelow is negivtive
it says what way they have to bee hooked up
just try one on leading for now and a j109 on the trailing..
here ya go
step 2
wiring as you see self explanitory main things you have to take note is
on the igniters theres 4 tabs b,c one side and w,g on the other
g-red on the distributor(remove steal cap off dizzy to see the wires)
w-green on the distributor
as i understand reds negitive and green is positive
use the .250" conneters and fold the spade in half to make a tight fit on the dizzy
this applys to both leading and trailing
for b&c on the igniters
b=positive
c=negitive
so obivosuly black wire from coil is positive
and yelow is negivtive
#13
Originally Posted by blwfly
just use what i wrote
it says what way they have to bee hooked up
just try one on leading for now and a j109 on the trailing..
here ya go
step 2
wiring as you see self explanitory main things you have to take note is
on the igniters theres 4 tabs b,c one side and w,g on the other
g-red on the distributor(remove steal cap off dizzy to see the wires)
w-green on the distributor
as i understand reds negitive and green is positive
use the .250" conneters and fold the spade in half to make a tight fit on the dizzy
this applys to both leading and trailing
for b&c on the igniters
b=positive
c=negitive
so obivosuly black wire from coil is positive
and yelow is negivtive
it says what way they have to bee hooked up
just try one on leading for now and a j109 on the trailing..
here ya go
step 2
wiring as you see self explanitory main things you have to take note is
on the igniters theres 4 tabs b,c one side and w,g on the other
g-red on the distributor(remove steal cap off dizzy to see the wires)
w-green on the distributor
as i understand reds negitive and green is positive
use the .250" conneters and fold the spade in half to make a tight fit on the dizzy
this applys to both leading and trailing
for b&c on the igniters
b=positive
c=negitive
so obivosuly black wire from coil is positive
and yelow is negivtive
#15
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Location: Birmingham AL
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Originally Posted by KNONFS
Pic don't work
Did you followed the instructions mentioned above? or some other way?
Thanks!
Did you followed the instructions mentioned above? or some other way?
Thanks!
The only idea I really borrowed was gutting two j109s and jumping the internal pins so they can be used as connectors. I fabricated the wiring based on the stock schematics. W and G pins connect to the dist., B and C go to the coils. Mounting the modules to the strut tower the way I did was something I just came up with. When I first fired it up my timing was 90* off. Jeff20b suggested I switch the B and C pins, it worked.
#16
Lapping = Fapping
iTrader: (13)
I think I suggested switching the W and G pins. It got the best of me once as well. The timing light showed it was way off. I think the reason I screwed it up is because I figured the G terminal of the HEI was the same as the G terminal of the J-109, but it actually wasn't. I honsetly don't recall though.
I've got some HEIs sitting here. When I hook them up, I'll try it both ways and go with whichever works correctly.
I've got some HEIs sitting here. When I hook them up, I'll try it both ways and go with whichever works correctly.
#17
Originally Posted by PT Ray
What's wrong with pic?
The only idea I really borrowed was gutting two j109s and jumping the internal pins so they can be used as connectors. I fabricated the wiring based on the stock schematics. W and G pins connect to the dist., B and C go to the coils. Mounting the modules to the strut tower the way I did was something I just came up with. When I first fired it up my timing was 90* off. Jeff20b suggested I switch the B and C pins, it worked.
The only idea I really borrowed was gutting two j109s and jumping the internal pins so they can be used as connectors. I fabricated the wiring based on the stock schematics. W and G pins connect to the dist., B and C go to the coils. Mounting the modules to the strut tower the way I did was something I just came up with. When I first fired it up my timing was 90* off. Jeff20b suggested I switch the B and C pins, it worked.
thanks for the info
#18
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Location: Birmingham AL
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
I think I suggested switching the W and G pins.
#19
Ok, so we finally tried this setup...
Its a 79 car, so we were trying to upgrade from points to electronic ignition and swith to HEI. The car would start instantly, leadings where on point; however we could not get the timing light to pick up a reding from the trailings. On our troubleshooting, we discoverred the the MSD blaster was receiving signal and they were sending the spark; but for some reason the spark was not being picked up by the destributor. We ended up buying a brand new rotor and cap, and still the spark would not jump to the rotor (it would to any ground surface).
Also, the tach was erratic; and the engine would not rev past 4,000 rpms or so. Any help is greatly appreciated
BTW - We call it a night, when we discovered that the air gaps on the e distributor were not equal
Its a 79 car, so we were trying to upgrade from points to electronic ignition and swith to HEI. The car would start instantly, leadings where on point; however we could not get the timing light to pick up a reding from the trailings. On our troubleshooting, we discoverred the the MSD blaster was receiving signal and they were sending the spark; but for some reason the spark was not being picked up by the destributor. We ended up buying a brand new rotor and cap, and still the spark would not jump to the rotor (it would to any ground surface).
Also, the tach was erratic; and the engine would not rev past 4,000 rpms or so. Any help is greatly appreciated
BTW - We call it a night, when we discovered that the air gaps on the e distributor were not equal
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