Dwjwii

iTrader: (1)

So, I'm thinking of going Direct Fire for my '84. Here's my list so far. Any other suggestions or needed items? I'm getting new spark plug wires from RockAuto. And yes, 2 batteries, one is for my '96 land rover.... Both are dead.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Looks good if you are.just doing leading ignition. You may want a good quality spark plug wire kit to make the longer leads you need depending on coil location. Also thermal paste for the HEI module.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

i dont like any of your parts, maybe the batteries.
you can do CDI but it's been debated to death that CDI is only slightly better under 6k rpm and not as good above 6k.

this coil:Aem Electronics 30 2852 High Ouput Inductive Dumb Coil | eBay

x3

this iginitor: (instead of the msd box)

MSD Ignition 5596 Hei Module Street Fire | eBay

x3


i cant seem to find all the good pix of mine.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

That looks like a pretty good ignitor. The coil seems interesting as well.

elwood

iTrader: (1)

That coil comes in a smart and dumb version, both are the "IGN" series, in this case re-badged by AEM. I believe the original design was done for Mercury Marine. I along with many modified FDs run the smart version, which includes an ignitor. I've had good luck with them -- awesome spark energy as evidenced by its ability to reliably light off my mixture at high boost, with loads of water / methanol injection. You can also buy them at diyautotune.com. Be sure to get the correct coil for CDI vs inductive. I've run both, and I prefer inductive -- cheaper, simpler, and better driveability.

That ignitor is a GM part, also rebadged. Many here have used it (but not me, yet) with good feedback.

I like OEM parts -- they're usually more reliable.

And if you're going to get an Optima, get a yellow top. For a few bucks more, they're much more resistant to deep cycling -- i.e. you forget and leave your lights on.

lastphaseofthis: Interested to see those pics if you can find them . . . and more info on your experience with those parts.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

the ones i have are cheaper chinese versions, but basically the same part. i did find a weird quirks with touching the ignitor inputs would make the coils spark at a really high frequency and spark was thin and continuous... like a stun gun. if i then touch the chassis grounding myself it would stop.. also i just read this thread on condensors, i dont think i need one, right?

https://www.rx7club.com/sakebomb-gar.../#post12090066

its funny they talk about smart coils not needing but the ign-1a 's do, ha ha. who are they kidding??

the coils use fd coil plugs ... so its nice and tidy now,
photos!

Dwjwii

iTrader: (1)

Question, why do I need 3 dumb coils? I should only need 1 per plug correct? And if it's for the trailing too, then why wouldn't I need 4?

Toruki

Not doing trailing, I think that it's for the tach signal from the trailing spark, and that the old (original) trailing dumb coil is fine.

Buuuut if you are doing trailing ignition too, I also think you would need a 4th coil (i.e. 2 more "good" ones) and a 4th HEI module?

Dwjwii

iTrader: (1)

That's what I was thinking, so 3 HEI modules, and 2 coils. Got it.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

you cannot direct fire the trailing coils, you have to have them go thru the cap. havent you ever googled a DLIDFIS thread from back in the day?? do we have to go back and beat an old dead horse again just to update with newer nicer parts?

also there are many types of ignitors, of the oem
the bosch 024 ( google it) is powerfull but hard to get here. better over seas. pulls about 7 amps
the stock j109 pullss about 1.5 amps
the stock gm hei coils you get cheap only pull about 4.5 amps ..

the gm hei however come in higher amp versions i posted above, made by
accel, i've only read around 6-8 amps, not tested
MSD, only read about 8 -9 amps
the ever popular and super duper flamerthrower 3s, top of the line here son! 8-10 amps


and the ones i am trying out.. i will check the amps soon enough.