KeloidJonesJr.

iTrader: (8)

I noticed that my car's been using up alot of fuel after my emissions equipment removal. Does anyone know how to solve this?
Pics of what I have removed so far.
Port? vaccums

White circle denotes removal of hose



^^^ Removed two lines
I also removed the two lines next to the dizzy

ray green

iTrader: (14)

That's what I experienced too. I worked with it quite a bit over the summer I had it out but never could get it to run as well or with nearly the gas mileage so I put it back in. Much better now.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

I would hook the vacuum advance up to start.

KeloidJonesJr.

iTrader: (8)

To where and what? And how?

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

The 2 dash pots on the dizzy, connect them together with some hose and T fitting, then run the one hose to the 2nd on the left nipple on the base of the carb in the first picture. I believe it is the 2nd on the left.

KeloidJonesJr.

iTrader: (8)

Alright just went to the store and bought a T fitting, connecting to the advances on the dizzy:

Then connecting it to the second port like you said:

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

you should clean your engine as well. Clean = less weight = better gas mileage

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Kenetsu I believe has done a thread on the proper placement of the vacuum hoses.

KeloidJonesJr.

iTrader: (8)

^^^ Couldn't find the thread.

Did I hook my hoses on correctly?

Rogue_Wulff

Yes. Regardless of who tries telling you the vac advance goes elsewhere, leave it where it is.
MPG does suffer a bit with rats nest gone, due to the shutter valve being disabled. Engine life (in my opinion) is extended without the shutter valve, since diverting the air/fuel mixture to the front rotor only, also diverts all the oil that *would* be going to the rear apex seals. This holds true whether the OMP is in use, or premixing.
Anyone ever notice the rear rotor/housing is usually the one with the most wear during a rebuild? I wonder why........