De-Powered Rack & FC subframe swap input
#1
De-Powered Rack & FC subframe swap input
Hey all,
I am currently in the process of an FC subframe swap, and at the same time I will be de-powering the rack since I won't have a good way to accommodate my new engine setup.
Just looking to see if anyone is currently using a de-powered FC rack and was wondering how long/well it holds up?
I have heard of a few different techniques of welding the pinion and other concerns abut the actual rack rod deflecting due to the omission of the center seal.
Anyone been driving on this setup for more than a few months or a year?
I am currently in the process of an FC subframe swap, and at the same time I will be de-powering the rack since I won't have a good way to accommodate my new engine setup.
Just looking to see if anyone is currently using a de-powered FC rack and was wondering how long/well it holds up?
I have heard of a few different techniques of welding the pinion and other concerns abut the actual rack rod deflecting due to the omission of the center seal.
Anyone been driving on this setup for more than a few months or a year?
#2
Old [Sch|F]ool
I have been running/rallycrossing a depowered 3-port FC rack since 2010. Have maybe 80-90k miles on the swap, using parts from a 160k mile donor.
Still works fine. The people who insist that you have to weld the pinion up are waaaay overthinking things. See the quote in the .signature for more info.
Still works fine. The people who insist that you have to weld the pinion up are waaaay overthinking things. See the quote in the .signature for more info.
#3
Old [Sch|F]ool
For some reason trying to edit deletes the post...
Anyway, I depowered by cutting the ram lines, spinning the steering back and forth to pump as much fluid out as I could, then used a short section of hose to loop the ram lines together. I made plugs for the feed/return lines by cutting the old lines off flush and welding the nuts shut.
It DOES have a little play... because the rack bushings are getting worn. Having torn boots allows crud in there and this wears the rack. But then, the 160k donor had torn boots, and the rack was heaving fluid, so it was all shot to begin with.
Anyway, I depowered by cutting the ram lines, spinning the steering back and forth to pump as much fluid out as I could, then used a short section of hose to loop the ram lines together. I made plugs for the feed/return lines by cutting the old lines off flush and welding the nuts shut.
It DOES have a little play... because the rack bushings are getting worn. Having torn boots allows crud in there and this wears the rack. But then, the 160k donor had torn boots, and the rack was heaving fluid, so it was all shot to begin with.
#4
Thanks for the reply.
I am still quite a ways away from driving the car, but, I followed the flyin miata guide where he cut the center seal out... I think maybe I have compromised my rack doing this?
I haven't logged in for a while thus my late response.
I am still quite a ways away from driving the car, but, I followed the flyin miata guide where he cut the center seal out... I think maybe I have compromised my rack doing this?
I haven't logged in for a while thus my late response.
#5
Old [Sch|F]ool
If you do it that way, there is no turning back, you can't put a power steering pump on it later if you like.
BTW, since my last post, I've installed a 2:1 quickener, still no power assist. It's friggin' sweet. There's a bunch of play because of the quickener now, but who cares. You drive strictly with shoulder pressure, not hand motion. Only downside is you need so little steering that the turn signals no longer self-cancel.
BTW, since my last post, I've installed a 2:1 quickener, still no power assist. It's friggin' sweet. There's a bunch of play because of the quickener now, but who cares. You drive strictly with shoulder pressure, not hand motion. Only downside is you need so little steering that the turn signals no longer self-cancel.
Last edited by peejay; 07-04-19 at 05:28 PM.
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Jush (07-17-19)
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