Jinx099

Not sure exactly what the problem is, but when I was driving my '85 the other day I went to put the clutch in and it didn't come back up. I managed to get the car back to safety in my dorm's parking lot. I checked the clutch master cylinder resavoir and the fluid was within the marks, but dirty as all hell!! I had this EXACT same problem just about a year ago and all I did was bleed the clutch hydraulics and put new fluid in and it's been fine since.

So, I got some new fluid today and plan on doing the job tomorrow. Can somebody walk me through this procedure as I've never done it before myself. Last time it happened my dad did it and I just worked the clutch. So I'd appreciate it if somebody would walk me through this.

Thanks!

Illswyn

Just try searching

I have that thread bookmarked because I have the same problem. Except mine is just developing the problem, it does come back up, but sometimes if you hold it down long, it stays down. Can pull it back up and it'll work still though.

Bought a rebuild kit at NAPA for under $15.

shm21284

Replace the clutch master cylinder and slave unit, one has gone bad and the other will soon thereafter. It's always a good idea to do both at one time because the dirt and crud that slowly builds up in there does wear on both, just one will go before the other. Bleeding is just a temporary fix... theres a reason it got air in the lines.
By the way, replacing them is easy. The top nut on the clutch master cylinder is a pain in the *** to get too. you need a "wobbler" extension.
To bleed:
THIS IS A TWO MAN JOB!! it requires communication between you two as well, or you will end up with a tired leg, frustrated, and air in the lines!!!
1) pump the peddle a few times (3 times is usually enough, but you cant really over pump)
2)hold the peddle down. HOLD UNTIL INSTRUCTED TO LET OFF!!!
3)the person under the hood will then open the bleeder valve, located on top of the transmission, where the tranny bolts to the engine. It's part of the slave unit. Be careful, clutch fluid will spray everywhere (it may not at first)
4)close the bleeder valve. You are still holding the pedal until the valve is closed. If you let off the pedal, you will suck air into the line.
5)pump it up
6)hold it
7)open valve, close valve, pump it up.... repeat process until no air comes out (you will know this because the clutch fluid coming out wont be fizzy and the clutch pedal will feal firm again)
enjoy

Jinx099

Illswyn, how'd the rebuild kit work out for you? Thanks to both of you who replied.

Jinx099

Illswyn, how'd the rebuild kit work out for you? Thanks to both of you who replied.

Illswyn

It's working out great...sitting here...on my desk...can't screw it up if you don't open the box!

Seriously, I bought it and didn't want to get stranded for work this weekend. My work week starts on Thursday, so I'll work on it probably Monday, if not Sunday night if I'm not doing anything Monday.

To give you an idea how slow I work...I started changing a head gasket sometime in November...the car is still in the garage, just got the last parts ordered yesterday.

Jinx099

UPDATE!!

I tried fixing this crap today and failed.

How do you open and close the valve easily? I tried using the closed end of an 8mm wrench but had no room to use it effectivley. is it possible to open and close it by hand when bleeding it? If not, what's the best method to quickly open and close the valve?

tmking66

Easiest way I have found to open and close the bleed valve on your clutch it to break it loose with a socket. Next, attach a piece of tubing (windshild washer tubing works good). The tubing should fit very TIGHT on the bleed valve. Turn the bleed valve with the tubing till it is just barely shut. As the clutch pedel is depressed open the bleed valve by twisting the tubing. When all air is out of the system shut the bleed valve by twisting the tubing until closed. Remove tubing and tighten down with socket. While bleeding the tubing also send fluid to container and prevents making a mess.

Hope this helps!

MarkPerez

Okay,these things fail all to often, IMO. The colour of the fluid(s) tells the story. clutch and brake fluids both. But it seems that the brakes can stand it when the fluid turns dark and crappy, but not the clutch. When the clutch fluid turns colour it's not too long untill the clutch will fail. I'm not sure if it's the material (metal) used for the slave and master cyls. that the fluid breaks down or if it's the overall use. For one person to bleed the clutch system you will need: about 2 feet of clear (fish tank hose) and plastic (dixie) cup. open the bleeder, one end of the clear hose goes on the bleeder the other end goes in the plastic cup, add about 1/4 cup of brake fluid in the cup and make sure the hose end IS in the fluid. with the bleeder open pump the clutch pedal. The clear hose allows you to see any air bubbles pass through it.
when no air bubbles are seen tighten the bleeder, check the pedal presure. if good, remove hose,cup, and top off the fluid then button up the system,... good to go.