looked in tha haynes manual dont understand where the screw nut or bolt is there talking about to get it off doesnt look like it exists its from an 85 GSL, any ideas how to pull the resoviour off or pull the cylinder out ?


thanks
-Rob

 

the 2 nuts are on the inside of the car, since the unit has 2 studs that mount thru the firewall. Its above the clutch pedal, so grab a flash light and take a look, very simple to change.

John

 

got the unit off so far, what about dissasembling it i have a rebuild kit for it any ideas there ?

 

The resoviour pulls off and the parts are helded in by a split ring that is located on the push rod side of the CMC.


John

 

Whoa, I looked at mine and saw the same thing. No nuts to turn in the engine compartment. Glad someone else asked already! I would have been equally stumped. Mine is covered in rust. It's the only place on the car I've found any rust in large quantity.

Think I could get a rebuild kit locally, or need to order out? Or just find one off a parts car?

 

Okay you guys working on the clutch master cyl. is straight forward, easy to do stuff. the first thing to do is under the hood remove the hardline from the CMC. second in the car under the dash at the clutch pedal there are 2 12MM bolts, remove those and the CMC comes right out. third use a bench vise to hold the CMC to do the work. fourth remove the spring ' clip', it will come out easier if you release presure by pushing in the plunger.fifth remove the plunger, spring, and rubber pieces, and remove resiovor and it's rubber. sixth clean all pieces. Auto parts stores sell and carry rebuild kits , around $12.00- $15.00 dollors US. seventh to do a good job buy a wheel cyl./clutch cyl. hone, fits in a drill and are adjustable. hone the master a bit, clean, compressed air works best for this. ready to reassemble.
first thing in is the spring, small end away from you, then the rubber piece, cup end towards the spring, then clear plastic piece, then plunger, make sure the spring 'clip' is seated at all 3 corners. replace the rubber and the res. add fluid and 'prime' the CMC before installing in car, bolt the CMC, and hardline. now your going to need to bleed the air out of the CMC system. A plastic cup, a piece of clear 'fish tank' hose about a foot long, brake fluid, .... open the bleeder on the slave cyl. fit one end of clear hose over bleeder, the other end goes in the plastic cup, add 1/4 cup of brake fluid in the cup and make sure the clear hose end is in fluid. pump the clutch pedal. the clear hose allows you to see air bubbles pass through the hose ,,when no air bubbles are seen close the bleeder, add fluid as needed to top off, check the pedal, should be good to go, remove clear hose and button up. done,,untill next time. a side note:
I add an extra spring, so there is an inner and outer internal springs , small, more dense inner spring for a better feeling clutch pedal. okay ? questions ?

 

archive haha, thanks for the rebuild write up... very usefull

- rob

 

The easiest and safest way to make sure its right is to just buy a new one.

 

Yeah, and I coulda bought a new car, too.

 

The only problem with rebuilding your MC is just over-honing the cylinder, or being too large to begin with. Thus an improper seal. I'm not sure on the specs, but it goes along the lines of taking a feeler guage and shoving it in-between the cylinder and the top of the piston. If the gap is too large then it's shot.

 

I tried using a rebuild kit.. put it together and put it on.. started leaking not too long after... It's much simpler to buy a new one.. But not from the mazda dealership, They wanted 180 bucks for a new master and slave cylinder..or just get a non-leaker out the junkyard..

 

Or get one from the victoria british catalogue. It's not outrageously expensive, and well worth the piece of mind.

Good luck with your rebuild though.

Jon