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Got me a leak in the clutch hydraulics. I have sourced new parts…
master, slave and flexible line from firewall to slave. However the nut on the hard line where it attaches to the firewall is rounding out. May need to cut it off
Are there any sources for a replacement hardline? Or am I looking at fabricating my own hard line or running a one piece flexible line from master to slave. Would REALLY prefer to fix as close to stock as I can.
Thanks!
The hardline is no longer available. I would not trust a used one, even if it is a known good one. Why, it's prone to fail because of age/usage. I'd make a new one.
Success! As a last ditch attempt tried a different wrench that was angled such that I could get it in two flats that were not rounded out. Prayed to the automotive gods and leaned into it and… crick! Off it comes. Onwards to the next surprise.
Just my 2 cents but if you are not currently doing it I would advise getting some Break-free or PB Blaster spray and applying it to any hardware the day before you plan on working on it. Helps with rusted old nuts and bolts and it can makes jobs a lot easier.
That may have indeed been part of the solution. I sprayed the nut with some Blaster I had left over from suspension work last month… wasn’t soaked overnight, just the time it took to Google replacement hard lines and post to RX7 Club, but seemed to help.
Job is now done. Took the car for a test drive and had a ‘RX7!’ shout from a cyclist I passed. Makes it all worth while.
You always want to use a line wrench on hydraulic fittings. Soaking them is a good suggestion too. Another tip, I've had success with extra stubborn fittings by clamping across the head of the wrench with a pair of vice grips and using both the wrench and pliers to break it loose. Adds leverage and helps to keep the wrench opening from spreading and rounding the corners of the fittings. Needle nose vice grips can get into tighter places than standard one too, but aren't quite as strong.
I recommend getting an expensive one just for those lines, the harbor freight ones have a bit more slack. I think I paid like 30$ for ONE wrench in two sizes but it has served me well and I have undone my brake hardlines a few times.
I do buy HF tools but for stubborn bolts, I always bust out my vintage craftsman!
Another tip is that even with the line wrench, watch the line near the fitting to ensure it doesn't twist. If the fitting is rust locked, the line itself will crush just when you think it's coming apart.
The clutch hard line is still available new from Mazda. The part number is FA66-45-510. It's for the 84 and 85 model year. Since parts have been tough to find for my 1980, I converted all of my clutch hydraulics on my 1980 LS over to the 84-85 clutch hydraulics. I finished up yesterday and the system works perfectly. I used the oem hard line mentioned above.
The clutch hard line is still available new from Mazda. The part number is FA66-45-510. It's for the 84 and 85 model year. Since parts have been tough to find for my 1980, I converted all of my clutch hydraulics on my 1980 LS over to the 84-85 clutch hydraulics. I finished up yesterday and the system works perfectly. I used the oem hard line mentioned above.
just for the infoz, 79-80 are 10x1.25 thread and 81+ are 10x1.0 thread.
You could always fabricate your own lines but finding the thread fitting is getting tough as well.
Does mazda still sell the hydrolic and brake system hard lines ? It wouldn't be a bad idea to invest in a extra set .
You could always fabricate your own lines but finding the thread fitting is getting tough as well.
Does mazda still sell the hydrolic and brake system hard lines ? It wouldn't be a bad idea to invest in a extra set .
10x1.25 brake lines are pretty easy to find. Sine the 18-85 hard line is available, I'd do what mazdaverx713b did and just convert. Makes finding the clutch and mater much easier. Now, it will probably cost $100 to do this. I'd also go with a SS soft line.
Easy enough.....if you got all the tools to make it... I got the hard line from AutoZone......I also fabricated my rear brake hard lines.....
Yeah seems like the best bet is to fab your own , The thread fitting is tough to find for a 79-89but a member posted some he aquired. I might buy like 20-30 just to have some , you need like 10 ish to make a full set .
Yeah seems like the best bet is to fab your own , The thread fitting is tough to find for a 79-89but a member posted some he aquired. I might buy like 20-30 just to have some , you need like 10 ish to make a full set .
Good thread! Since it is on topic I would like to add something helpful I came across.
I recently swapped in a GSL rear end so went ahead and installed the proper proportioning valve and master cylinder. There was one or two OEM brake lines that I simply could not get to seal. It would leak an almost undetectable amount but enough that I could spot it in a few days with the thread fitting getting wet with fluid. And the last thing you want to do is try to tighten more.,. if snug doesn't work, tighter will cause more harm.
I have heard of gaskets for AN type flares but did not know they also exist in brake flare angle and size (-3). They are tiny copper conical washers that make up for any tiny imperfection in either the OEM line or the piece it joins and seals with. Parker makes them, just look up flare gasket and ensure it is for 45deg brake flare and proper dash number.
The Copper-Nickel lines commonly used as replacements because they are easy to bend also are much easier to seal. OEM stainless lines not so much....
10-15-22, 01:19 PM
