Circuit Racer Seized Thrust Bearing!
03-31-02, 11:50 PM
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Circuit Racer Seized Thrust Bearing!
I Have a Gen 1 circuit racing car here in OZ, running a 13b bridgeport (producing in excess of 250hp at the wheels) , fuel injection, microtech mtx8 computer system, centre link rear suspension. Rear floating hubs, dog tranny, lightened flywheel, lightened rotors with a two piece eccentric shaft. Most of the stuff is from Melbourne performance shops including Autostyle Automotive and Guru Motorsports.
Guru Motorsports
And look at this photo for what happened when my thrust bearing seized while racing at Wakefield Park on the weekend!
Guru Motorsports
And look at this photo for what happened when my thrust bearing seized while racing at Wakefield Park on the weekend!
04-01-02, 12:43 AM
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Yeah, real nice, almost looks like a rose!
I had one explode about 18 months ago and now this with a full billet steel one, sh_ the bearing totally failed and must have been white hot I would guess.
I had one explode about 18 months ago and now this with a full billet steel one, sh_ the bearing totally failed and must have been white hot I would guess.
04-01-02, 06:37 PM
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What's a thrust bearing? 
Looks like a bad throwout/clutch release bearing to me.
All that I know of down there are the rear eccentric shaft bearing, the pilot bearing, the throwout bearing, and the tranny input shaft bearing...
Looks like a bad throwout/clutch release bearing to me.
All that I know of down there are the rear eccentric shaft bearing, the pilot bearing, the throwout bearing, and the tranny input shaft bearing...
Last edited by Pele; 04-01-02 at 06:39 PM.
04-01-02, 08:48 PM
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I am talking about the bearing running on the input shaft that pushes against the clutch 'fork' (that comes out of the side of the bell housing).
Does that make sense?
Does that make sense?
04-01-02, 11:14 PM
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Ah.. it's that international automotive slang...
Like we call it the hatch.. You call it the Boot...
That, we call the throwout bearing, or the clutch release bearing.
Gotcha..
Like we call it the hatch.. You call it the Boot...
That, we call the throwout bearing, or the clutch release bearing.
Gotcha..
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04-02-02, 02:50 AM
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Originally posted by mperformance
yeap throwout bearing... looks like a weird explosion how did it feel when it happened?
yeap throwout bearing... looks like a weird explosion how did it feel when it happened?
Before I went out there was a bit of noise from the bearing but once you put you put on the clutch it went away. On about the 5th lap of practice the pedal started to fell weird (may be soft), then on the next lap my foot went all the way to the floor, now no clutch! Pulled the gearbox out and this was found! The bearing had totally failed, the 'front' half had fallen off and all the ball bearings were inside the pressure plate (on the side of the engine etc).
04-02-02, 10:24 AM
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yea you lost me a bit, the "thrust" bearing is inside the motor its a slim little **** like a needle bearing. now the throwout bearing i can understand.
TWISTER, how do you like the floating rotors? i have looked into them @ guru but theres not a lot of info on them.....like how do they mount to the stock axel do you cut the stock axel? shoot me a p.m. if you would with some more info and pics if you got them.
TWISTER, how do you like the floating rotors? i have looked into them @ guru but theres not a lot of info on them.....like how do they mount to the stock axel do you cut the stock axel? shoot me a p.m. if you would with some more info and pics if you got them.
04-03-02, 02:17 AM
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Yes I think it is a throwout bearing is US language :-)
Floating hubs absolutely fantastic! You bolt them straight onto the 'outside' ends of your rear axle mounts (i.e. at your wheel end :-)
You have to get made (or buy from them) a new set of axles.
The stud pattern is for 'early Gen 1, i.e 110pcd.
They are designed for more race use (rather than 'pure road') to add extra safety and ease of changing diffs etc.
Floating hubs absolutely fantastic! You bolt them straight onto the 'outside' ends of your rear axle mounts (i.e. at your wheel end :-)
You have to get made (or buy from them) a new set of axles.
The stud pattern is for 'early Gen 1, i.e 110pcd.
They are designed for more race use (rather than 'pure road') to add extra safety and ease of changing diffs etc.
04-03-02, 08:19 AM
#11
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They also take the load of holding the car up, instead of leaving it to the axles! We have a problem here of the bearings and bearing retainer collars on the axles walking down the axle. Some racers have to press the bearings back on after every race. Others are seeing axles break somewhat frequently. YMMV but a full-floater axle will always be more durable since the axle only works as an axle and the bearing is totally separate. (The way it SHOULD be!)
04-04-02, 04:32 PM
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Hi Peejay,
Great to see someone that actually knows what they are talking about, the full floating hubs sure offer many advantages. Thanks for your input, I knew I spent the money for good reasons :-)
Great to see someone that actually knows what they are talking about, the full floating hubs sure offer many advantages. Thanks for your input, I knew I spent the money for good reasons :-)
04-05-02, 01:05 AM
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Motorsport is tooooo expensive, but we all have our vices! I have a sheet at home recording my costs etc, so once I get there I will give you a breakdown!
04-06-02, 12:21 AM
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Originally posted by BadAssRX-7
so what did the setup run you? the 2 axels and the 2 floaters and all the other crap?
so what did the setup run you? the 2 axels and the 2 floaters and all the other crap?
I have tried to convert this to USD (easier for most of you)
Chrome Molly Flyweel ~ $600
2 Piece E- Shaft ~ 1400
Axels / Foaters ~ $1350
Torsen Diff ~ $800
Dogbox (the best) ~ $5k
EFI setup (For my Gen 1 Racer) - $500
Computer/ Dash etc etc -$1300
Lightened Rotors, Clutch ~ Not sure sh__ my records are bad ) will check the recepits when I can find the files.
For the difference all this has conerted my vehicle into a full racer, sh__ fast, safer, reliabality and a winning combination.
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