Castrol Gtx High Mileage?
#1
Wheel Revolutionist!
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Castrol Gtx High Mileage?
Ok i did some research on oils for 1st gen 7's and i found most use Castrol GTX or Havoline?
Whats the difference between all these oil brands?
Since i use Castrol GTX on my Rx7 , Should i use Castrol High Mileage since my vehicle has 148,xxx? Whats the difference between normal and High mileage. should i buy a case of it?
One more question what are other good oils to use on 7's. Is quaker state "high Rpm" oil safe for 7's? Mobile one?
Whats the difference between all these oil brands?
Since i use Castrol GTX on my Rx7 , Should i use Castrol High Mileage since my vehicle has 148,xxx? Whats the difference between normal and High mileage. should i buy a case of it?
One more question what are other good oils to use on 7's. Is quaker state "high Rpm" oil safe for 7's? Mobile one?
#2
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I use the local store's house brand of 10w30 non-synthetic. I change the oil and filter often enough that I don't think it matters that I use the generic stuff. I've always tried to avoid oils with additives in them, because I never really know what they'll do (or not do) in a rotary engine. The Castrol High Milage oil for example boasts that it "prevents oil burning". That doesn't sound like a good characteristic for a rotary oil to me.
I think what's more important is the choice of filter. I use exclusively Purolator PureOne now, thanks to the oil filter study that I read on here somewhere. (search for oil filter study or pop your head in the Canadian section, it's usually on the main page there).
So if you're going to buy a case, go get yourself some of the local part store's home-brand non-synthetic oil and a bunch of Purolator PureOne filters. You'll save some money on the oil, but hey if you're changing it at regular intervals you should be fine.
Jon
I think what's more important is the choice of filter. I use exclusively Purolator PureOne now, thanks to the oil filter study that I read on here somewhere. (search for oil filter study or pop your head in the Canadian section, it's usually on the main page there).
So if you're going to buy a case, go get yourself some of the local part store's home-brand non-synthetic oil and a bunch of Purolator PureOne filters. You'll save some money on the oil, but hey if you're changing it at regular intervals you should be fine.
Jon
#4
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FYI, it doesn't matter what brand of oil you use if you change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles (for piston engines, anyways.)
I'm not sure about the different types for each brand, though (i.e. the 'High Mileage' you were talking about. That's what's in my car right now, and I also popped my rear apex seal recently. I'm not sure if it's just a coincidence or if the 'high mileage' has something to do with it.)
I would think that the "prevents oil burning" would be good even for rotary engines, even though I'm unsure how it prevents oil burning. I would think that by preventing the burning of oil (perhaps because of its composition?), the oil would stay on the seals longer, so it the apex seals would be lubricated longer.
I'm not sure about the different types for each brand, though (i.e. the 'High Mileage' you were talking about. That's what's in my car right now, and I also popped my rear apex seal recently. I'm not sure if it's just a coincidence or if the 'high mileage' has something to do with it.)
I would think that the "prevents oil burning" would be good even for rotary engines, even though I'm unsure how it prevents oil burning. I would think that by preventing the burning of oil (perhaps because of its composition?), the oil would stay on the seals longer, so it the apex seals would be lubricated longer.
#5
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"prevents oil burning" could equate to a buildup of carbon in our combustion chamber. Our engines rely on the fact that the oil injected into the engine is burned off as cleanly as it can be, so that it doesn't build up and end up caking in places that would cause problems.
But what you said about oil type not being important if you change every 3k miles is right. I change mine every 5,000km, which is even sooner than that.
The Napa GOLD are okay, but do not get the regular ones. They're made by different manufacturers. But if you searched and found the study, you already know that.
Jon
But what you said about oil type not being important if you change every 3k miles is right. I change mine every 5,000km, which is even sooner than that.
The Napa GOLD are okay, but do not get the regular ones. They're made by different manufacturers. But if you searched and found the study, you already know that.
Jon
#6
Registered Piston Eater
what about amsoil synthetic? say you use a regular synthetic for everything but the omp and amsoil 2 stroke synthetic for the omp. i use ams regular synth for my moms car (piston), they say you can run the oil for 25000 miles and the filter for 12000.
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#10
How About A Cup Of STFU
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K&N oil filter ? I guess they're guaranteed 1,000,000 miles, too. Just rinse em out with special cleaner and keep on going, huh ?
The_7 said: "what about amsoil synthetic? say you use a regular synthetic for everything but the omp and amsoil 2 stroke synthetic for the omp."
The omp uses the engine oil unless you've blocked it and gone to aviation pump from a remote reservoir. Or do you mean premix with the 2 cycle ???
Regardless, the other guys gave you good advice to just change the filter and the oil every 3000 miles and don't waste your money on high $ ****.
The_7 said: "what about amsoil synthetic? say you use a regular synthetic for everything but the omp and amsoil 2 stroke synthetic for the omp."
The omp uses the engine oil unless you've blocked it and gone to aviation pump from a remote reservoir. Or do you mean premix with the 2 cycle ???
Regardless, the other guys gave you good advice to just change the filter and the oil every 3000 miles and don't waste your money on high $ ****.
#15
Rockn' The Galant
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K&N Oil Filter here too, I cut mine apart and it was doing what it was supposed to and I tried a OEM one from Racing Beat but I didnt cut it apart.
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#18
I will clear a few things ALL NAPA filters are made, and stamped from wix. K&N isnt sold at NAPA around here, but Advanced Auto Parts. Plain out WIX filters also can be bought, although the only place I know so far, is a local owned parts store.
#19
Rotor Power Rules
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"High Milage" will soften engine seals like those on a shaft due to this oils special additive package. Therefore if you have leaking seals on your eccentric shaft then this oil may help those seals stop leaking.
But if your engine doesn't leak oil don't use it because it could cause those good seals to start leaking.
But if your engine doesn't leak oil don't use it because it could cause those good seals to start leaking.
#20
RXtacy is the Key
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from what I have read k&n oil filters filter smaller particals, and dont deterorate over time like some (fram) I but mine a Shucks or CarQuest but I dont know what states have those stores
#21
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Anything made by Champion Labs is great (Mobil1, Purolator, K&N) but I go with K&N purely for the fact that stuff like the above can happen and it has a HARD shell.
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#23
Rockn' The Galant
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Read my above post, all the top filters are made by Champion Labs, but all have different specs like K&N is geared more towards flow and Mobil1 and Purloator are made towards hardcore filtering.
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#25
RXtacy is the Key
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well if thats the case I think the best thing to do is get the daul filter set up and run 2 Purloator's, the u get flow and filtering and lower oil temps
Woops sorry double post
Woops sorry double post
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