nopistonsforjoe

hey everyone...
my 12a is in pieces and i was wondering what i should use to get the carbon off my rotors? the factory manual says i have to be careful with the surface so any ideas?
i figure i'd rather be safe than sorry...thanks everyone!

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

low grit sand paper should do the trick. (KIDDDDING!!!)

Manntis

We used to soak piston heads in carb cleaner to decarbon them. Not sure if there's something in rotors that would make this a bad thing though...

ioTus

iTrader: (5)

Well wouldnt it be pretty much the same as doing an ATF treatment only w/o the engine assembled?

nopistonsforjoe

good point...its off to the kragen for me! thanks guys

Keaponlaffen

hmmm..... ATF could work.... I'd say a good degreaser would work, and carb cleaner as Manntis mentioned before...

Jeff

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

i used to use kerosene to soak my rotors, then i'd use carb cleaner and a fine grit (wet) sandpaper, like a 1200 or 1600, to get whatever didn't fall off by itself.

peejay

ATF is crap.

Get a bucket of carburator cleaner, the kind you use to "dunk" a carb. One rotor should fit in the bucket at a time. Remove all of the rotor seals (especially if you plan on reusing the oil control O-rings) and springs (make sure to carefully note where they came from, using the numbers mazda stamped in to the rotor sides) and put the rotor in overnight. Next day, you'll have a nice clean rotor.

We used the carb dunk for cleaning piston/rod assemblies at one place i worked. The solvent was black from all of the dissolved carbon, but it would still clean a set of pistons like you wouldn't believe. A quick wash in the normal parts cleaner and they're ready for new rings and bearings, no tedious scrubbing.

Two notes - the solvent smells NASTY - fortunately the can has a lid. And don't put anything plastic or rubber that you care about in there, 'cos it won't come back out

nopistonsforjoe

uh oh...being the big idiot i am i didnt mark down which springs came from each rotor...am i totally screwed?

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Thats what I used, soak them in kerosene for about a day or so, and then spray them down with carb cleaner, and use a scrubbie. Typically available at the local grocery store. I believe they are green ..

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Or then again, you can do what Peejay recommends that will work perfect, what dont come off use a scrubbie for

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

I didnt either, i put it back together and it worked fine.

Dunno why they say that? I know on the side seals you need to mic them so you know if they are worn unevenly that will make a difference... Best thing to do is use ALL new parts, unless you wanna do thuis again soon.

nopistonsforjoe

i would use all new parts if i could afford them...its basically the seven or food and i'm skinny enough as it is. hehe

Blitz0309

Make sure you get the napa carb cleaner that has the long warning of a basic summry of doing anything with this stuff will kill you. That eats just about anything off metal...

peejay

Yes. NAPA carb cleaner is the nastiest stuff you can get in a spray can. Still not as good as the buckets of carb dip though. But some things just won't fit in a bucket

The oil seal springs are different for the front-facing side vs. the rear-facing side. This is because they are directional and keep the seal from spinning on the rotor as it wobbles around its orbital path.

Beyond that, I wouldn't say you're SCREWED. You could still pop it back together but you'd have to recheck all the clearances. Unfortunately, it probably won't run as well as it used to.