dj55b

iTrader: (2)

I know this is weird and that people usually complain that their cars are usually running too hot but ever since I last changed my rad water i've been running too cold all the time that I'm always under Warm Up Enrichments. During the night time i'm running about 68*C (154.4*F), and during the day time it floats around 72*C (161.6*F). Still also have the stock beehive too. If i put on that FC oil cooler I'm sure it will make things even worse, and not to mention if I add Water Wetter.

What I'm running is this:

Ice River Springs Water from Walmart
Prestone Dex-Cool Antifreeze

Previously I had some other kind of water and just walmart special antifreeze with purple ice and it was never that cold. Even when I was at the track last time with it i think the most that I saw was about 77*C (170.6*F). Its good like that at the track ... but awfully cold to drive like that.

DwArF

On my sho my thermostat went out and my car would never reach operating temperatures. Even after commuting an hour to work in stop and go traffic.

I think it may be the same deal

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

I agree, it's worth taking a look at your thermostat it may be stuck open causing coolant to circulate through the whole cooling system before reaching the proper operational temperature.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

Thermostat definatly works fine. Its only a few months old too. But if I place my hand over the top hose i don't feel anywater till it warms up a bit. Like i said this only started happening after the radiator water change

Curiousity ... has anyone used dexcool antifreeze before? I didn't think much of it when I first bought it and just thought it was some addictive to make it last longer ... but reading on the web abit it says that it could corrode aluminum? Also apperently has failed a few water pumps. Anyone else can pitch in on this?

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

I would stay away from dex-cool personally. In my experience I haven't seen anything that leads me to believe that it is a better coolant. The biggest advantage of it, is the fact that it's long life. I would recommend replacing the antifreeze every couple of years, so there is no real reason to justify the extra cost.

But that being said it should have no effect on how your vehicle heats up. Is it possible that your thermostat is just opening too early? Are you using a mazda thermostat?

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

We had used Dexcool when I was a Service Manager and found out that it caused leaks and seepage. Now this was back in 2002 so i don't know if they have done anything with the formula since then.

I would take the Thermostat out and test it. It could be that it is not closing all the way.

GavinJuice

it has nothing to do with the coolant itself damaging the aluminum, it happens when you run LOW on dexcool that the VAPORS cause the damage. So as long as you maintain your ****, your in the clear

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

well reading up about the last cases of the dex cool thing is as of early this year ... so i don't know. I normally change it every year though. Its cheap enough to do anyways. I will take the thermostat out and check things though. It work beautifully for the track though.

680RWHP12A

+1
or try a 190 thermostat
either way you will fix the problem

wish we had the same problems here

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Are you running a fan clutch or an electric fan.

If the t-stat checks out and you are running the stock fan clutch verify that it is not locked up and keeping the fan engaged all of the time.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

I see the likely causes as:

1. you are running a 160F t-stat. That would explain why your temperatures hover around 160F.

2. you are actually warmer and do not have the table or resistor in your MS cailbrated correctly to work with your sender. Are you using the GM sender or are you using a Mazda one?

3. t-stat is sticking as others have mentioned

Kentetsu

Well, Kent just laid it all out exactly as I was going to. Not many variables here, so it should be easy enough to sort it out. Good luck...

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

now that you mention it, i have the same problem i didn't know this was a problem until recently its been raining so its been cooler and when i go down the road my car actually cools down....a lot, i always thought it was good that my T needle stayed so cool, but i guess its not lol.....hmm i will check the t. stat, is there a way to free it up? in case its sticking...i don't really have the funds to buy another one...also i don't think my fan is engaged all the time being that i just replaced my water pump about 10 months ago. is the testing for both in the manual?

by the way this is where it usually "warms up" to..here lately with this cooler T's it's been cooling almost to that first line.

djessence

are you sure your guage/sender works blackdeath? When mine wasn't functioning right it would sit about there. Also t-stats are like 18 bucks, and not really something you wanna cheap out on

and water pump and fan are 2 seperate entities, replacing your wp has no effect on the fan

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

now that you mention it, i'm not sure i'm gonna have to look tomorrow, i was almost certain that when i replaced my water pump i had to just move the propeler over, but now i'm just confused of course you're most likely right :P, but uh, now that i remember i also replaced the T stat about 2 or 3 years ago when i first got my car, well, i didn't know much so basically dad said that's what it was and he replaced it...where exactly is the sender? is it right on top of the radiator?....and i know i don't wanna cheap out on t-stats, but i'm currently jobless and so i must keep expenses to a limit :P

djessence

Water temp sender is near the oil pressure sender/beehive. Its a bullet connector on the rear iron i believe. Just something to look into, you could also use an infrared heat tester on the rad at full temp, or on the water pump. should be between like 165-180.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

I am also using and electric fan off a fiero and its always off until it reaches about 78*C

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

mine sits about there on my 85 GSL.. i suspect that the problem lies within the gauge. i will post the testing procedeure shortly