Hey guys,

I'm going to be doing an electric cooling fan conversion. I've found the fan, but what temp switch should I be using?

 

I found an "adjustable fan controller" at Autozone for under 20 bucks. It has worked great for nearly 3 years now. Most others are around 50 dollars because they have added functions for A/C. Sorry I don't have a part number or anything for you...




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good thread here....I was wondering why you could not tie a relay into the temp switch that is in the water pump housing. According to the FSM it switches on about 150-160F. According to the Factory wiring diagram the pump switches power. You should be able to connect this to a bosch style relay and disco!!

Anyone done this or thought about it??

$5 for a relay vs. $20+ for another switch and it would make for a super sano installation.

Just a thought!!

 

Works like a charm. Never turns off unless the car is off when the car warms up.

 

would the (Painless Wiring Relay - Multi-Use: Fan-Thom; With 185 Degree On / 170 Degree Off Thermostat) Work?

 

If you're running the stock thermostat, it opens at 180 deg F. Turning your fan on at temps below 180 deg F would seem useless. Likewise, I'd like my fan to turn off at some point if the engine cools back down (like when I'm on the highway after being stuck in traffic). If you get a 185 deg on / 170 deg off switch, the fan won't turn off once it turns on -- until you shut the car off. For these reasons, I chose a switch that comes on at 210 deg, and switches off at 190 deg (Be Cool PN 75099). That way, it will cool the engine only when it really needs it.

 

Thanks guys.

Where did you get the 75099 switch? Where does it get it's temperature reading from?

 

Glad to see this works....I figured it would. Did you tie your relay wire over at the switch itself or tie it in over at the hot start relay?

 

Get the Painless wiring kit that has 200F on, and 185F off. I have used it on two separate projects and it works great. You can tap out the location on the back of the water pump housing to work with the sensor. The sensor that is in there is for the thermo controlled carburetor choke, and you can just yank it of there. Most of the time the temperature controlled chokes on these cars have quit working anyway.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Thanks for all the good info.

 

My choke sensor still works, will this cause any problem other than not automatically releasing? What is the thread size of the hole in the water pump housing? Can I use a series of reducers/enlargers to avoid rethreading the housing itself?

 

You know I got to thinking....oh and looking at the factory wiring diagram. I am going to try installing an electric fan this weekend. I am going to use 2 bosch style relays. I will tie into the factory water temp switch (behind the water pump housing). This will turn the fan on when the temp gets hot enough.... But here is the twist.... It was mentioned that you don't need the fan at highway speeds so I am going to tie into the overdrive switch in the transmission to turn off the fan when I shift into OD.

That way anytime the engine temp gets hot enough...fan on... OD in gear and driving highway speeds....Fan off.

I will post my findings.

 

Is this the No.1 water temp switch (B-13) from the wiring diagram?

What are the caveats to using this and not the FAN-THOM painless kit?

 

No it is B-10 on the wiring diagram. I can't think of any caveats to this setup. You are using factory switches with some good old fashioned bosch style relays. I thing by using the Overdrive switch it will be cool shutting off the fan at highway speeds as well.

 

Isn't B10 the emission control unit?

 

Well I went and looked back. B-10 is the water temp switch for California Emissions. B-08 is the one for "other than California"

Regardless of B-whatever... you want the switch that goes to the Hot start relay.

Also...my car is a 1980. Might be different for different year models.

 

Removing the sensor won't affect anything other than the **** for the choke. Usually, when you pull it out it stays out until the car is warmed up. After the car is warmed up it is supposed to release automatically and pop back in. If you remove the sensor then I believe that it will just stay in all the time. You would either have to put a quarter behind it to hold it out, or just hold it by hand.

As far as the threads in the water pump housing, they are some kind of funky metric thread size. I haven't ever been able to figure out what the thread is. I doubt that you'd be able to find an adapter for it, but it is always worth a try. If anyone has it, www.McMaster.com will.

The choke sensor thread size is VERY close to the 3/8-18 NPT of the Painless kit, but they are NOT the same. When you first try to put the sensor in the hole you can almost convince yourself that they are the same thread, but they ARE NOT. Don't try to force the painless sensor into the threaded hole because you'll end up wishing you hadn't. Your best bet is either:

1) Find an adapter for the choke sensor to 3/8-18 NPT.
2) Spend an hour pulling the water pump housing off, tap it for 3/8-18 NPT and be done.

If you run into any problems along the way I'd be glad to help. I can provide pictures if necessary too.

Jamie

 

Thanks guys. I'll be shopping for parts tonight.

 

I use the probe that goes into the radiator fins. Adjustable temp.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

I like your sign!!! Put me down for porking Palin too!!!!

 

^ Look at Youtube much?

Hey DriveFast7, I picked up one of those adjustable probes like you posted, but found it locally at Autozone. I just looked at it through the bag and it looks like the same sensor unit and stainless steel probe. I can't wait to try it on my next project.

 

Is that probe going to provide and accurate enough reading?

 

It has worked fine for me for nearly 3 years. Adjust it to come on where you want it to, then forget about it... I got the one from Autozone too, about 20 bucks.

 

I was a little concerned about poking the probe into the fins, but not anymore. I'm sure it will work well enough in my rotary baja.

 

Kentetsu, Is this what you used for the control?

http://www.autozone.com/R,3131/initi...ductDetail.htm