Having some steering issues...

I've searched through several threads and have noticed that some posters say to turn the strut mount plate arrows back and inward, or "toward the shifter".

My '83 Mazda Shop Manual has them going in different directions, which it calls "factory settings". I don't have the manual in front of me, but I believe one does, in fact, go back and in - but the other doesn't.

What are the steering effects when I follow the advice of the posters? Is this for better handling? Wrong info?

Thanks!

 

The shop manual is correct. Each side has a different caster setting. I think, but could be wrong, this is done because of the way they build roads with crowns in them. Anyway, forget about the little arrows, the only reliable way to get the caster set is at a good alignment shop with precision measuring equipment.

 

You should turn the strut tops to the back and in postition. This gives you the most negative camber you can get from the factory setup. Then you need to go to a wheel alignment shop and get caster and toe adjusted.

After I did a decent alignment, I noticed an immediate improvement in handling. This is what I did before hitting the track for the first time, and I was very happy with the car, considering it was all stock suspension (except rear springs (don't ask!)).

 

Cool - though that leaves me a tad bit screwed. I have the camber set to factory settings, but the drivers side wheel appears to have visibly noticable negative camber...

Also, I'm pissed because I find most shops don't like the idea of adjusting caster/camber in these cars. I don't know a lot about the different alignment adjustments in varying cars - but it seems safe to assume most cars don't need the strut mount pushed down and rotated...

And now that I think about, most cars I've owned haven't used that system...

 

S2-13BT - unless I'm mistaken, to adjust the caster, they would have had to rotate the strut mount plate to another position (if a caster adjustment was necessary).

I'd be curious to know what position they ended up in...

 

Factory camber is 1* POSITIVE which makes the front end push like a pig.

dial in 1* NEGATIVE camber, stock caster, stock toe and it'll handle real good.

 

DriveFast7 - there's only 4 available camber/caster setting per strut, correct?

If I were to set it according to your liking - does that result in both strut mounts pointing in and back?

 

Yes, in and back will give you maximum negative camber and max positive caster. You can dial in a little more caster by shortening the tension rods, but dont go too far or the A-arms will contact the corssmember. You can also slot the strut tower holes to get a little more camber. And remember to take it to a shop and have the toe re-set and caster camber checked so you dont have any tire wear problems.

 

yup! The tension rods actually play a big part in the caster setting.

 

i noticed this car pushed like a pig but it already has snap oversteer so wouldnt the understeer be a good thing?

 

nope. lack of front traction does not help oversteer. it just makes your handeling suck.

 

There is plenty of adjustment in the tension rods. And toe is easily adjusted with the tie rods.

Put your strut tops to the back and in position. Adjust back to factory castor (i've got more than factory, without the suspension arm contacting the crossmember) and make sure the toe is right.

1mm toe in, on each side is good, and as much castor as you can get without interference, if you don't mind the steering being a little heavy when parking. It'll pay off at speed though. Max negative camber will depend on your struts, some are a little bent or whatever after 20 years of driving.

Set the tops yourself, and all other adjustments can be made on the wheel alignment machine.

 

Thanks for all the help - I understand the various adjustments and get the general concept now...