snwyvern

I finally broke down and ordered the Brake linings, Brake hoses, hardware kits and a front bearing set (inners, outers and the grease seal.) The brake media that I picked up is Bendix, the rotors are Centric... The front hardware kit is NLA, as is the rear hardware kit.

I was able to find an online retailer that still had new old-stock for the front hardware kit (as well as the hoses and Universal Joints) but the drum kit is apparently made out of unobtanium.

After talking on the phone with a Centric tech (they still had a 'current' part number, but as the gentleman on the phone informed me, they have a "fill order" period before they strike a run of the parts, which usually means waiting for up to six moths before anybody gets some.) the best solution was to grab the 85 (83+?) rear drum hardware kit and adapt the long-springs, as the spring overall length(s) and rates were identical, save for the auto-adjusting bits.

That brings us to the rest of the garbage I usually like to replace with bearings; the spindle nut and related hardware. This too is now made out of purest unobtanium, as the only part I could find was the indexed washer. Horay.

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Let the above serve as a warning to (us) SA folk: While the GSL-SE Knuckle/rear/etc. swap is a detriment to purists, the running gear for those cars are still plentiful and cheap.

Since I've invested "this much" (the above listed parts plus fluids, grease, U-Joints and hatch struts has cost $400) and steering/suspension parts (Other than front struts, WTF?) still seem to be availible for the SA, I don't plan to do the "swap" until the next time I need wheels or brakes.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductL...r=Hardware+Kit

Also if you click on the part # you can go to another screen and have the option to see what other vehicles these kits fit.:-)

snwyvern

This is the part where I say something snyde about a Search Facsist not utilizing the "search" function on the referrant page, but I'll abstain. :P

O'Reilly (CSK) lists two parts numbers, a B/A part number and a Doorman part number. Doorman's parts (as well as Duralast, etc.) are in the same boat as Centric. The difference being that Doorman isn't taking orders for the specified part number anymore. Beck Arnley removed (most) of the previously specified parts in their latest catalog referesh, and according to Centric, they just rebrand products that are sourced from... Doorman and Centric... anyway.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

did you try mazda? the aftermarket really never carried hardware kits for these cars... pads, drums, discs, bearings yes, everything else not so much

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I just checked rockauto for a 79 and they show a Dorman rear drum
brake hardeware kit for $6 or so. You just need to look beyond the
the autozone and autozone clones for the parts.

These are the same parts for the rx2,rx3,rx4 808 and some other
Mazda cars. Pretty common really.

I don't think its time to panic just yet

The castle nut holders on the front hubs have always been a dealer item but
you can get by by drilling a hole and using a cotter pin if in a pinch.

snwyvern

... And if you add the item to your cart, you'll get a message saying it's on infinite backorder. And if you're OK with that, you'll get a phone call (their customer service really is great) the next day saying it's not availible anymore.


I'll call them in the morning, thanks!

snwyvern

An update:

All of the materials that were located fit and worked great. The exception was the rear drum hardware kit. The Dorman rep was incorrect in his assertion that the auto adjusting rear-drum kit ought to work in the non-auto adjusting rear-drum kit. (Long spring; incorrect end, blah blah blah)


Winner, winner, chicken dinner... My local Mazda dealer did not have an active part number for the "Hardware kit," but did have part numbers for the long and short springs, spoon and retaining strap (... rubber band.) Each of those parts were about $12.00 (each.) The same went for the castle nut, grease cap, etc.

One point of concern was that the inner bearings have a new part number (as compared to the "old part number" which was analog to the A32.) I'm not certain as to why that was, but at any rate everything went together well. It's been 300 miles or so since, so I need to re-check the hub torque. I suppose I'll find out if there are any egregious problems then.

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On a side note, I'm getting some extreme chatter from the drums when under light/moderate braking AND the drums are hot. There's also some drag/light chatter that only happens at highway speeds... I'm guessing that that those symptoms are caused by imprecise adjustment, does anyone have any experience with this one?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Did you have the drums turned before putting them on even though they are new?
Sounds like out of roundness. The other cause would be contaminated brake
linings.

Adjusting is pretty easy, you just move the two bolts on the back until the brakes
just drag when turning the drum by hand and then back off just a bit. They should
seat in after that no problem.

Is your parking brake assembly moving freely? Make sure its really releasing all the
way, it could bind and hold the brakes on a bit. That may cause these symptoms as
well heat up those drums too.

snwyvern

I did not, I gave them a quick go-round with a measurement tool. Everything was as close to perfect as my device allows me to say. I don't think I greased the linings while monkeying with the drums to get them on--

The verbage in the Haynes (... flame-on) manual led me to believe that the brakes should be adjusted to lockup, then loosened until they turn... I think I may need to re-adjust the brakes with your (and the Mazda manual's...) proper advice. (Yes, parking brake is working correctly, needs some adjustment, but it's not "dragging.")

I'll give readjusting a try (and retorque my hubs while I'm at it.)

Thanks.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

generally mazda sells everything separate. its the exception when they have a kit