Do you need to replace the entire engine after say 40.000 Miles? Or do you only need to do a rebuild and replace the Apex+Side Seals? Do you need to replace rotors and housings?

 

no need to replace the rotors or housings unless they get damaged.. the trick is to rebuild before you have to. if you wait for the seals to go, then you are at high risk of damaging the rotors.

when you rebuild, you will want to replace all of the seals and springs.

 

A pp or bp should go about 50k miles, before you need to replace oil control rings/apex seals. But while you're in there, you might as well replace bearings, side seals, corner seals, etc.

Keep in mind this is street driven miles, with some track use. But no 24hrs of daytona or anything.

CJ

 

24 hrs would require a rebuild after the race,

the diehards do this.

 

So the rebuild would cost like 1000$ and then you're up for another 50k miles?

 

Possibly less.

 

The nice thing about carbon apex seals, is they are very, very gental to rotor housings. Most of the time when a carbon apex seal wears out, its because of the length gets to short, not the hight. So the motor will become harder and harder to start when warm.

Even if you are unlucky enough to break a carbon apex seal (I've done it once) they usually put "dents" in the rotor housing, and next to nothing to the rotor. So everything is/can be reused. Unlike steel apex seals where they turn into shrapnel, taking the rotor, and housing with it.

Also, carbon apex seals will take detination. Not as much as ceramics or steels, but they will take some. I know this first hand. I had my 13B pp engine ping when i was running a 150shot. Nothing broke...until a nut off the air cleaner whent through the rear rotor.

CJ

 

What caused the pinging? It could be the fact that you were using carbon seals.

I read an interesting magazine article on putting a nitrous setup on a 13 bridge-port.

Initially the engine would ping like crazy after a couple of hard dyno runs or some time at the track. And no amount of tuning or retarding the timing would get rid of it.

Turns out the carbon seals were heating up after hard running and acting like glow plugs causing the engine to ping.

Steals seals cured the problem instantly.

 

The fuel pump on the nitrous system took a dive on me. Interesting bit of info. Think you could dig it up for us to read? I'd realy appreicate it. CJ

 

No not a grand. I would say unless they are rely bad to not replace the bearings cus they actualy get harder and a seasoned bearing can be better than a new one. I would jsut dissasemble it and replaces what needs to be replaced. If it needs a few compression seals then do them. But use new corner springs and new rubber inserts and a water o ring kit and new oil control o rings and call it good. Oh if you run steels then check the triangle piece and see how much where there is. If there is quite abit then new apexes too and carbons also do them any ways other wise throw here back together and call it good. Shoud be able to do a rebuild for under $500, if you have some spare parts laying around.


CJG

 

It was in an Aussie performance mag. I'll see if I can successfully scan it up for you.

 

That would be realy cool. CJ

 

Here's that article.

 

Man you Aussie's suck LOL Joking... You got all the cool toys, and most of the time cheap. Or is that just the US $ exchange rate?

But seriously, everything good I see is made in australia.. A Haltech, cheap ligh flywheels, aftermarket Apex seals etc

 

Also seriosuly I think Id hate to come drag race there, Id get my *** beat by everything... By the way, being so close to Japan sucks too, I see 3 rotor cosmo's FULL running car for cheap! Id give my left nut to have one here...

 

What can I say... it's a great place to live.

Near perfect year round weather, girls in G-strings sun-bathing on the beach topless and an abundance of Jap imports like Skyline's, Silvia's, 180sx's etc.

Not to mention all the rotary powered cars you could ever dream of.

Plus we drive on the correct side of the road.