BP/PP engine after lifespan. What needs to be replaced?
#1
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BP/PP engine after lifespan. What needs to be replaced?
Do you need to replace the entire engine after say 40.000 Miles? Or do you only need to do a rebuild and replace the Apex+Side Seals? Do you need to replace rotors and housings?
#2
smog nazi destroyer
no need to replace the rotors or housings unless they get damaged.. the trick is to rebuild before you have to. if you wait for the seals to go, then you are at high risk of damaging the rotors.
when you rebuild, you will want to replace all of the seals and springs.
when you rebuild, you will want to replace all of the seals and springs.
#3
Pineapple Racer
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A pp or bp should go about 50k miles, before you need to replace oil control rings/apex seals. But while you're in there, you might as well replace bearings, side seals, corner seals, etc.
Keep in mind this is street driven miles, with some track use. But no 24hrs of daytona or anything.
CJ
Keep in mind this is street driven miles, with some track use. But no 24hrs of daytona or anything.
CJ
#7
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The nice thing about carbon apex seals, is they are very, very gental to rotor housings. Most of the time when a carbon apex seal wears out, its because of the length gets to short, not the hight. So the motor will become harder and harder to start when warm.
Even if you are unlucky enough to break a carbon apex seal (I've done it once) they usually put "dents" in the rotor housing, and next to nothing to the rotor. So everything is/can be reused. Unlike steel apex seals where they turn into shrapnel, taking the rotor, and housing with it.
Also, carbon apex seals will take detination. Not as much as ceramics or steels, but they will take some. I know this first hand. I had my 13B pp engine ping when i was running a 150shot. Nothing broke...until a nut off the air cleaner whent through the rear rotor.
CJ
Even if you are unlucky enough to break a carbon apex seal (I've done it once) they usually put "dents" in the rotor housing, and next to nothing to the rotor. So everything is/can be reused. Unlike steel apex seals where they turn into shrapnel, taking the rotor, and housing with it.
Also, carbon apex seals will take detination. Not as much as ceramics or steels, but they will take some. I know this first hand. I had my 13B pp engine ping when i was running a 150shot. Nothing broke...until a nut off the air cleaner whent through the rear rotor.
CJ
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#8
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Originally posted by pp13bnos
The nice thing about carbon apex seals, is they are very, very gental to rotor housings. Most of the time when a carbon apex seal wears out, its because of the length gets to short, not the hight. So the motor will become harder and harder to start when warm.
Even if you are unlucky enough to break a carbon apex seal (I've done it once) they usually put "dents" in the rotor housing, and next to nothing to the rotor. So everything is/can be reused. Unlike steel apex seals where they turn into shrapnel, taking the rotor, and housing with it.
Also, carbon apex seals will take detination. Not as much as ceramics or steels, but they will take some. I know this first hand. I had my 13B pp engine ping when i was running a 150shot. Nothing broke...until a nut off the air cleaner whent through the rear rotor.
CJ
The nice thing about carbon apex seals, is they are very, very gental to rotor housings. Most of the time when a carbon apex seal wears out, its because of the length gets to short, not the hight. So the motor will become harder and harder to start when warm.
Even if you are unlucky enough to break a carbon apex seal (I've done it once) they usually put "dents" in the rotor housing, and next to nothing to the rotor. So everything is/can be reused. Unlike steel apex seals where they turn into shrapnel, taking the rotor, and housing with it.
Also, carbon apex seals will take detination. Not as much as ceramics or steels, but they will take some. I know this first hand. I had my 13B pp engine ping when i was running a 150shot. Nothing broke...until a nut off the air cleaner whent through the rear rotor.
CJ
I read an interesting magazine article on putting a nitrous setup on a 13 bridge-port.
Initially the engine would ping like crazy after a couple of hard dyno runs or some time at the track. And no amount of tuning or retarding the timing would get rid of it.
Turns out the carbon seals were heating up after hard running and acting like glow plugs causing the engine to ping.
Steals seals cured the problem instantly.
#10
Originally posted by Aico
So the rebuild would cost like 1000$ and then you're up for another 50k miles?
So the rebuild would cost like 1000$ and then you're up for another 50k miles?
CJG
#11
Hunting Skylines
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Originally posted by pp13bnos
The fuel pump on the nitrous system took a dive on me. Interesting bit of info. Think you could dig it up for us to read? I'd realy appreicate it. CJ
The fuel pump on the nitrous system took a dive on me. Interesting bit of info. Think you could dig it up for us to read? I'd realy appreicate it. CJ
#14
Driven a turbo FB lately?
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Originally posted by REVHED
It was in an Aussie performance mag. I'll see if I can successfully scan it up for you.
It was in an Aussie performance mag. I'll see if I can successfully scan it up for you.
But seriously, everything good I see is made in australia.. A Haltech, cheap ligh flywheels, aftermarket Apex seals etc
#16
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What can I say... it's a great place to live.
Near perfect year round weather, girls in G-strings sun-bathing on the beach topless and an abundance of Jap imports like Skyline's, Silvia's, 180sx's etc.
Not to mention all the rotary powered cars you could ever dream of.
Plus we drive on the correct side of the road.
Near perfect year round weather, girls in G-strings sun-bathing on the beach topless and an abundance of Jap imports like Skyline's, Silvia's, 180sx's etc.
Not to mention all the rotary powered cars you could ever dream of.
Plus we drive on the correct side of the road.
Last edited by REVHED; 04-09-02 at 05:22 PM.
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