big lock nut
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: oklahoma
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big lock nut
I'm new here, I've been pretty much just following along and read what everyone else has been saying for the last month. I bought an 85 from one of my friends for 250 bucks but it has a blown apex seal. I've been tearing it down gradually and have found a big *** lock nut on the flywheel.
is there anyway that someone has found to remove this without buying the 54mm socket or whatever else is needed?
is there anyway that someone has found to remove this without buying the 54mm socket or whatever else is needed?
#2
Rotors still spinning
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I use a 2 1/8 inch socket on a 3/4 drive. I have had some that came off easy and some that an impact gun couldn't even pull off. You can try a big crescent wrench with a good pipe for a cheater bar on the end but I believe this to be suicide. At the very least you will end up inventing some new 4 letter words in the process. You also need to keep the engine from spinning. Get creative here. The Mazdatrix tool for doing this is nothing more than a straight piece of steel from a hardware store with a few holes drilled in it for bolts. Good luck, have fun, and don't hurt yourself too bad.
Fred
Fred
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kamloops BC Canada
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To answer your question: No, the nut can only be taken off with a 54mm or 2 1/8th inch socket. You'll break adjustable wrenches, and hurt yourself. If you have any friends that are mechanics, just throw the engine in the back of a vehicle, take it to a shop, and get them to impact it off.... you'll be glad you did... Then again, I got mine off with a pair of vice-grips crammed under the flywheel to hold it still, my friend holding the engine on the floor still, and me reefing down on a huge (3 foot long) cheater bar on the end of a 3/4 inch drive rachet... (I only weigh 140lbs)
Jeff
Jeff
#4
Seven Is Coming
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Both times Ive done it, I used a 2 1/8 socket with a 3/4 drive impact. To hold the flywheel on the first engine I didnt car to much about the internals (just tearing apart a dead engine to see how it works type thing), so I just wedged wood blocks behind the flywheel till it brok loose. On the second one, I used a spare front engine mount thing, and put a bolt through one of the holes in the mount into a bolt hole on the flywheel for the clutch, and then a bolt through the mount to a hole in the engine "block" where the bellhousing bolts up. Worked great. Thats how I did it . I also tried using many different (and dangerous) things before I broke down and got out the compressor (pretty bad when you have one, just too lazy to use it eh?), and about 5 seconds of duh duh duh duh, then vroooom, and it was off . Thanks to Mike-P-28 for encouraging me to use the air tools .
~T.J.
~T.J.
#5
Seven Is Coming
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Oh, and when I took my second one off, I had it resurfaced for a new clutch (always a good idea if you ask me). To put it back on, I have a torque wrench that goes up to 250 ft/lbs, so I set er there, and wrenched like there was no tomorrow. I eventually got her to pop at 250, and then added a torque multiplier, and got it to right around 300 or whatever the book says, I cant remember...Worked fine. Although, I had a RB header that was in just the right spot for me to grab onto and use for leverage .
~T.J.
~T.J.
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