Big brake kit
03-07-12, 09:06 AM
#1
Big brake kit
k guys so i am looking for the parts to put on the big brake kit and i just wanna have everything clear. I need the hubs, i want 5 lug, do they have to be tII?
The rotors, do they have to be tII as well? and the calipers i found a good deal on 2 front ones so they should work fine too right? Do i need anything else?
thanks
The rotors, do they have to be tII as well? and the calipers i found a good deal on 2 front ones so they should work fine too right? Do i need anything else?
thanks
03-07-12, 08:30 PM
#7
http://www.kcraceware.com/suspension.htm scroll down on this page to see the RX7 hub/rotor
www.kcraceware.com
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03-08-12, 10:56 AM
#8
common sense prevails....
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Yes. KC Raceware has a front brake kit that uses a CNC aluminum hub and a bolt on rotor. The kit is specifically designed for SCCA E Production racing to replace the GSL/SE front rotor. They have supplied hubs with 110mm pattern and a larger rotor could be fitted to the hub.
http://www.kcraceware.com/suspension.htm scroll down on this page to see the RX7 hub/rotor
www.kcraceware.com
http://www.kcraceware.com/suspension.htm scroll down on this page to see the RX7 hub/rotor
www.kcraceware.com
03-08-12, 11:28 AM
#9
Racecar rotors and especially the ones on these cars are a consumable item and there is no point in spending allot of money on them. When I was running in IT we were not allowed to run drilled rotors but I did experiment with Mazda OE, Brembo and Autozone rotors. What I found was that there was no difference in longevity or performance. I also used Hawk Blues on my car and they are REALLY hard on rotors. In fact a large percentage of the "brake dust" that was on my wheels after a race was cast iron rotor material.
I replaced rotors every second set of pads and I repacked the bearings at pad half life. I also never turned rotors when changing pads because this is a waste of time and money.
Do you have brake cooling ducts on your car? These make a HUGE difference.
03-08-12, 11:41 AM
#10
common sense prevails....
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I would ditch the drilled/slotted rotors and just run the cheapest ones you can find.
Racecar rotors and especially the ones on these cars are a consumable item and there is no point in spending allot of money on them. When I was running in IT we were not allowed to run drilled rotors but I did experiment with Mazda OE, Brembo and Autozone rotors. What I found was that there was no difference in longevity or performance. I also used Hawk Blues on my car and they are REALLY hard on rotors. In fact a large percentage of the "brake dust" that was on my wheels after a race was cast iron rotor material.
I replaced rotors every second set of pads and I repacked the bearings at pad half life. I also never turned rotors when changing pads because this is a waste of time and money.
Do you have brake cooling ducts on your car? These make a HUGE difference.
Racecar rotors and especially the ones on these cars are a consumable item and there is no point in spending allot of money on them. When I was running in IT we were not allowed to run drilled rotors but I did experiment with Mazda OE, Brembo and Autozone rotors. What I found was that there was no difference in longevity or performance. I also used Hawk Blues on my car and they are REALLY hard on rotors. In fact a large percentage of the "brake dust" that was on my wheels after a race was cast iron rotor material.
I replaced rotors every second set of pads and I repacked the bearings at pad half life. I also never turned rotors when changing pads because this is a waste of time and money.
Do you have brake cooling ducts on your car? These make a HUGE difference.
I just got off the phone with Charlie Clark with KC Raceware. He also mentioned i need to run cooling ducts.
It looks like I will need to change over to GSL-SE brackets and calipers to run his brake rotor kit. His stuff looks nice. Something to think about!
Now i am looking at my Pegasus catalog looking at brake ducts and hose!!
03-08-12, 12:32 PM
#11
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I would ditch the drilled/slotted rotors and just run the cheapest ones you can find.
Racecar rotors and especially the ones on these cars are a consumable item and there is no point in spending allot of money on them. When I was running in IT we were not allowed to run drilled rotors but I did experiment with Mazda OE, Brembo and Autozone rotors. What I found was that there was no difference in longevity or performance. I also used Hawk Blues on my car and they are REALLY hard on rotors. In fact a large percentage of the "brake dust" that was on my wheels after a race was cast iron rotor material.
I replaced rotors every second set of pads and I repacked the bearings at pad half life. I also never turned rotors when changing pads because this is a waste of time and money.
Do you have brake cooling ducts on your car? These make a HUGE difference.
Racecar rotors and especially the ones on these cars are a consumable item and there is no point in spending allot of money on them. When I was running in IT we were not allowed to run drilled rotors but I did experiment with Mazda OE, Brembo and Autozone rotors. What I found was that there was no difference in longevity or performance. I also used Hawk Blues on my car and they are REALLY hard on rotors. In fact a large percentage of the "brake dust" that was on my wheels after a race was cast iron rotor material.
I replaced rotors every second set of pads and I repacked the bearings at pad half life. I also never turned rotors when changing pads because this is a waste of time and money.
Do you have brake cooling ducts on your car? These make a HUGE difference.
03-08-12, 02:11 PM
#12
common sense prevails....
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I am going to change the rotors and keep using my old pads.
03-08-12, 05:06 PM
#13
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lol, our pads last the whole 25 hours and the rotors look new, AND it stops
03-08-12, 05:28 PM
#14
Yeah if you can get some Hawk HT-10 pads you will be allot happier.
Also on the cooling ducts they not only help with keeping the rotors cool, they can also help keep your wheel bearings cool depending on how you route the ducting. The wheel bearings on an RX7 are tiny and they tend to spin really fast because we run small diameter tires. Wheel bearing failures are a bigger fear of mine than brake fade or rotor cracking.
Also on the cooling ducts they not only help with keeping the rotors cool, they can also help keep your wheel bearings cool depending on how you route the ducting. The wheel bearings on an RX7 are tiny and they tend to spin really fast because we run small diameter tires. Wheel bearing failures are a bigger fear of mine than brake fade or rotor cracking.
03-09-12, 10:50 AM
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03-20-12, 12:36 PM
#19
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My brake cooling system uses Mazdaspeed hub ducts that force the air into the center of the disc and out the vanes.
This is the ISC front air dam.
It all works pretty good and the brakes only wear .002-.003 per weekend with Hawk Blues that definely stop the car. My biggest problem was the front bearings getting too hot. An adjustable brake bias unit installed in the rear brake line and drilling small holes in the hub dust caps to keep the grease from blowing out the seals has eliminated that problem.
This is the ISC front air dam.
It all works pretty good and the brakes only wear .002-.003 per weekend with Hawk Blues that definely stop the car. My biggest problem was the front bearings getting too hot. An adjustable brake bias unit installed in the rear brake line and drilling small holes in the hub dust caps to keep the grease from blowing out the seals has eliminated that problem.
03-20-12, 05:36 PM
#20
Big Brakes
k guys so i am looking for the parts to put on the big brake kit and i just wanna have everything clear. I need the hubs, i want 5 lug, do they have to be tII?
The rotors, do they have to be tII as well? and the calipers i found a good deal on 2 front ones so they should work fine too right? Do i need anything else?
thanks
The rotors, do they have to be tII as well? and the calipers i found a good deal on 2 front ones so they should work fine too right? Do i need anything else?
thanks
03-20-12, 11:50 PM
#21
common sense prevails....
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My brake cooling system uses Mazdaspeed hub ducts that force the air into the center of the disc and out the vanes.
This is the ISC front air dam.
It all works pretty good and the brakes only wear .002-.003 per weekend with Hawk Blues that definely stop the car. My biggest problem was the front bearings getting too hot. An adjustable brake bias unit installed in the rear brake line and drilling small holes in the hub dust caps to keep the grease from blowing out the seals has eliminated that problem.
This is the ISC front air dam.
It all works pretty good and the brakes only wear .002-.003 per weekend with Hawk Blues that definely stop the car. My biggest problem was the front bearings getting too hot. An adjustable brake bias unit installed in the rear brake line and drilling small holes in the hub dust caps to keep the grease from blowing out the seals has eliminated that problem.
03-21-12, 10:04 AM
#22
FB=OS Giken LSD
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The intercooler I have is from a NPR truck: and is bolted to the frame with a couple drilled aluminum strips. It sits above the oil cooler. These are some older pictures and are pre-widebody.
03-21-12, 11:46 AM
#23
Thanks for the pics. My plan for a FMOC is the run a piece of tubing about 8 inches above the round cross bar and mount my FMOC and external oil temp regulator to it. I still have the factory air so I can't put it in front of the round cross bar. I then need to run my -10 braided hoses.
