k guys so i am looking for the parts to put on the big brake kit and i just wanna have everything clear. I need the hubs, i want 5 lug, do they have to be tII?
The rotors, do they have to be tII as well? and the calipers i found a good deal on 2 front ones so they should work fine too right? Do i need anything else?
thanks

 

If you want the 5 lug then everything has to be from the TII.

 

thanks you very much for the clear up

 

Does anyone know an upgrade that you can still keep the 4 lug 110??

 

Actually 5 lug hubs can be found on almost any non S4 base model FC, and the 4 pot calipers and bigger rotors were used on GXL's, the GTUs and some Verts in addition to the T2's.

 

thanks perfect

 

Yes. KC Raceware has a front brake kit that uses a CNC aluminum hub and a bolt on rotor. The kit is specifically designed for SCCA E Production racing to replace the GSL/SE front rotor. They have supplied hubs with 110mm pattern and a larger rotor could be fitted to the hub.

http://www.kcraceware.com/suspension.htm scroll down on this page to see the RX7 hub/rotor

www.kcraceware.com

 

Thanks!! I am using the stock caliper and Mazdatrix slotted and drilled rotors and Hawk blue pads. This stops the car great!!, but I do crack rotors from time to time.

 

I would ditch the drilled/slotted rotors and just run the cheapest ones you can find.

Racecar rotors and especially the ones on these cars are a consumable item and there is no point in spending allot of money on them. When I was running in IT we were not allowed to run drilled rotors but I did experiment with Mazda OE, Brembo and Autozone rotors. What I found was that there was no difference in longevity or performance. I also used Hawk Blues on my car and they are REALLY hard on rotors. In fact a large percentage of the "brake dust" that was on my wheels after a race was cast iron rotor material.

I replaced rotors every second set of pads and I repacked the bearings at pad half life. I also never turned rotors when changing pads because this is a waste of time and money.

Do you have brake cooling ducts on your car? These make a HUGE difference.

 

Thanks for the info!! I am not running cooling ducts, but I will now!

I just got off the phone with Charlie Clark with KC Raceware. He also mentioned i need to run cooling ducts.

It looks like I will need to change over to GSL-SE brackets and calipers to run his brake rotor kit. His stuff looks nice. Something to think about!

Now i am looking at my Pegasus catalog looking at brake ducts and hose!!

 

hawk blues are basically like using a brake lathe.... there are much much better pads on the market now, although in FB size is a little tricky

 

Yeah but boy does this car stop!!! The pads are outlasting the rotors!! 2 years of autocross and 6 days of tracktime and the pads still have life!!

I am going to change the rotors and keep using my old pads.

 

lol, our pads last the whole 25 hours and the rotors look new, AND it stops

 

Yeah if you can get some Hawk HT-10 pads you will be allot happier.

Also on the cooling ducts they not only help with keeping the rotors cool, they can also help keep your wheel bearings cool depending on how you route the ducting. The wheel bearings on an RX7 are tiny and they tend to spin really fast because we run small diameter tires. Wheel bearing failures are a bigger fear of mine than brake fade or rotor cracking.

 

Which pads are you using??

 

performance friction. scott has a point about the wheel bearings too, they live a hard life

 

Not the prettiest setup, but it works.

On a side note, I have an extra set of TII front calipers if you are interested.

 

OFF TOPIC: Do you have any pictures of how you mounted the FMOC or intercooler? I'm in the process of fabbing up a FMOC mount using a Rotary-Works cooler and Earls external oil temp regulator.

 

My brake cooling system uses Mazdaspeed hub ducts that force the air into the center of the disc and out the vanes.

This is the ISC front air dam.



It all works pretty good and the brakes only wear .002-.003 per weekend with Hawk Blues that definely stop the car. My biggest problem was the front bearings getting too hot. An adjustable brake bias unit installed in the rear brake line and drilling small holes in the hub dust caps to keep the grease from blowing out the seals has eliminated that problem.

 

Please update with all your experience, once you are successful in swapping to 5 lug from 2gen to 1gen. I want to swap on my 85 GS as well. Just not sure what else I could be missing to swap. Thank you.

 

Thanks for the info. Is that ISC front spoiler still available? I like that!

 

The car is originally a GSL-SE so the oil cooler is stock.

The intercooler I have is from a NPR truck: and is bolted to the frame with a couple drilled aluminum strips. It sits above the oil cooler. These are some older pictures and are pre-widebody.

 

Thanks for the pics. My plan for a FMOC is the run a piece of tubing about 8 inches above the round cross bar and mount my FMOC and external oil temp regulator to it. I still have the factory air so I can't put it in front of the round cross bar. I then need to run my -10 braided hoses.

 

Do you have any cooling problems with the oil cooler and inter cooler blocking the entire radiator? I am in the process of building a TII and had considered doing it this way but was concerned engine temps might be affected.

 

^Assuming the radiator is in good shape you shouldn't have a problem at all. My oil cooler and i/c block my rad and it's fine, even on hot days I rarely get near 200* on coolant...