Big brake kit
k guys so i am looking for the parts to put on the big brake kit and i just wanna have everything clear. I need the hubs, i want 5 lug, do they have to be tII?
The rotors, do they have to be tII as well? and the calipers i found a good deal on 2 front ones so they should work fine too right? Do i need anything else? thanks |
If you want the 5 lug then everything has to be from the TII.
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thanks you very much for the clear up
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Does anyone know an upgrade that you can still keep the 4 lug 110??
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Originally Posted by orion84gsl
(Post 11008046)
If you want the 5 lug then everything has to be from the TII.
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thanks perfect
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Originally Posted by 80's old school
(Post 11008152)
Does anyone know an upgrade that you can still keep the 4 lug 110??
http://www.kcraceware.com/suspension.htm scroll down on this page to see the RX7 hub/rotor www.kcraceware.com |
Originally Posted by mustanghammer
(Post 11008808)
Yes. KC Raceware has a front brake kit that uses a CNC aluminum hub and a bolt on rotor. The kit is specifically designed for SCCA E Production racing to replace the GSL/SE front rotor. They have supplied hubs with 110mm pattern and a larger rotor could be fitted to the hub.
http://www.kcraceware.com/suspension.htm scroll down on this page to see the RX7 hub/rotor www.kcraceware.com |
Originally Posted by 80's old school
(Post 11009519)
Thanks!! I am using the stock caliper and Mazdatrix slotted and drilled rotors and Hawk blue pads. This stops the car great!!, but I do crack rotors from time to time.
Racecar rotors and especially the ones on these cars are a consumable item and there is no point in spending allot of money on them. When I was running in IT we were not allowed to run drilled rotors but I did experiment with Mazda OE, Brembo and Autozone rotors. What I found was that there was no difference in longevity or performance. I also used Hawk Blues on my car and they are REALLY hard on rotors. In fact a large percentage of the "brake dust" that was on my wheels after a race was cast iron rotor material. I replaced rotors every second set of pads and I repacked the bearings at pad half life. I also never turned rotors when changing pads because this is a waste of time and money. Do you have brake cooling ducts on your car? These make a HUGE difference. |
Originally Posted by mustanghammer
(Post 11009559)
I would ditch the drilled/slotted rotors and just run the cheapest ones you can find.
Racecar rotors and especially the ones on these cars are a consumable item and there is no point in spending allot of money on them. When I was running in IT we were not allowed to run drilled rotors but I did experiment with Mazda OE, Brembo and Autozone rotors. What I found was that there was no difference in longevity or performance. I also used Hawk Blues on my car and they are REALLY hard on rotors. In fact a large percentage of the "brake dust" that was on my wheels after a race was cast iron rotor material. I replaced rotors every second set of pads and I repacked the bearings at pad half life. I also never turned rotors when changing pads because this is a waste of time and money. Do you have brake cooling ducts on your car? These make a HUGE difference. I just got off the phone with Charlie Clark with KC Raceware. He also mentioned i need to run cooling ducts. It looks like I will need to change over to GSL-SE brackets and calipers to run his brake rotor kit. His stuff looks nice. Something to think about! Now i am looking at my Pegasus catalog looking at brake ducts and hose!! |
Originally Posted by mustanghammer
(Post 11009559)
I would ditch the drilled/slotted rotors and just run the cheapest ones you can find.
Racecar rotors and especially the ones on these cars are a consumable item and there is no point in spending allot of money on them. When I was running in IT we were not allowed to run drilled rotors but I did experiment with Mazda OE, Brembo and Autozone rotors. What I found was that there was no difference in longevity or performance. I also used Hawk Blues on my car and they are REALLY hard on rotors. In fact a large percentage of the "brake dust" that was on my wheels after a race was cast iron rotor material. I replaced rotors every second set of pads and I repacked the bearings at pad half life. I also never turned rotors when changing pads because this is a waste of time and money. Do you have brake cooling ducts on your car? These make a HUGE difference. |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 11009640)
hawk blues are basically like using a brake lathe.... there are much much better pads on the market now, although in FB size is a little tricky
I am going to change the rotors and keep using my old pads. |
Originally Posted by 80's old school
(Post 11009769)
Yeah but boy does this car stop!!! The pads are outlasting the rotors!! 2 years of autocross and 6 days of tracktime and the pads still have life!!
I am going to change the rotors and keep using my old pads. |
Yeah if you can get some Hawk HT-10 pads you will be allot happier.
Also on the cooling ducts they not only help with keeping the rotors cool, they can also help keep your wheel bearings cool depending on how you route the ducting. The wheel bearings on an RX7 are tiny and they tend to spin really fast because we run small diameter tires. Wheel bearing failures are a bigger fear of mine than brake fade or rotor cracking. |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 11009982)
lol, our pads last the whole 25 hours and the rotors look new, AND it stops
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Originally Posted by 80's old school
(Post 11010827)
Which pads are you using??
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http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/DSC01730.jpg
Not the prettiest setup, but it works. On a side note, I have an extra set of TII front calipers if you are interested. |
Originally Posted by mikeric
(Post 11010863)
http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/DSC01730.jpg
Not the prettiest setup, but it works. On a side note, I have an extra set of TII front calipers if you are interested. |
My brake cooling system uses Mazdaspeed hub ducts that force the air into the center of the disc and out the vanes.
This is the ISC front air dam. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...0522-00006.jpg It all works pretty good and the brakes only wear .002-.003 per weekend with Hawk Blues that definely stop the car. My biggest problem was the front bearings getting too hot. An adjustable brake bias unit installed in the rear brake line and drilling small holes in the hub dust caps to keep the grease from blowing out the seals has eliminated that problem. |
Big Brakes
Originally Posted by kutukutu1
(Post 11008034)
k guys so i am looking for the parts to put on the big brake kit and i just wanna have everything clear. I need the hubs, i want 5 lug, do they have to be tII?
The rotors, do they have to be tII as well? and the calipers i found a good deal on 2 front ones so they should work fine too right? Do i need anything else? thanks |
Originally Posted by tom_sprecher
(Post 11023968)
My brake cooling system uses Mazdaspeed hub ducts that force the air into the center of the disc and out the vanes.
This is the ISC front air dam. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...0522-00006.jpg It all works pretty good and the brakes only wear .002-.003 per weekend with Hawk Blues that definely stop the car. My biggest problem was the front bearings getting too hot. An adjustable brake bias unit installed in the rear brake line and drilling small holes in the hub dust caps to keep the grease from blowing out the seals has eliminated that problem. |
Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
(Post 11011069)
OFF TOPIC: Do you have any pictures of how you mounted the FMOC or intercooler? I'm in the process of fabbing up a FMOC mount using a Rotary-Works cooler and Earls external oil temp regulator.
The intercooler I have is from a NPR truck: and is bolted to the frame with a couple drilled aluminum strips. It sits above the oil cooler. These are some older pictures and are pre-widebody. http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/x...ce/RX-7067.jpg http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/x...ce/RX-7068.jpg |
Originally Posted by mikeric
(Post 11025110)
The car is originally a GSL-SE so the oil cooler is stock.
The intercooler I have is from a NPR truck: and is bolted to the frame with a couple drilled aluminum strips. It sits above the oil cooler. These are some older pictures and are pre-widebody. http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/x...ce/RX-7067.jpg http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/x...ce/RX-7068.jpg |
Originally Posted by mikeric
(Post 11025110)
The car is originally a GSL-SE so the oil cooler is stock.
The intercooler I have is from a NPR truck: and is bolted to the frame with a couple drilled aluminum strips. It sits above the oil cooler. These are some older pictures and are pre-widebody. |
^Assuming the radiator is in good shape you shouldn't have a problem at all. My oil cooler and i/c block my rad and it's fine, even on hot days I rarely get near 200* on coolant...
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