1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

beehive mod?

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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 12:16 AM
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From: Raleigh,MS
beehive mod?

stupid forum

anyways what i was saying

I know FMOC is better, but im cheap, have a nice 3-core auto tranny radiator in, and it hard to get FB parts in MS.

I have some spare water hose and a spare heater core. I'm thinking about adding in between the water outlet on the block and the beehive inlet.

Thoughts?

BTW with brackets so It would look nice and all.

Last edited by wwilliam54; Apr 8, 2003 at 12:19 AM.
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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 12:36 AM
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Sorry bro, but I'm not digging it. Even though I do admire your ingenuity, the cooler itself is a POS reguardless of how cold the water going threw it is.
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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 12:39 AM
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eh I know, but it'll have to do for now anyways, just trying to make it suck less
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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 02:46 AM
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That could work. And/or try adding an aftermarket oil cooler to the metal line that runs down to the front cover. I picked up a 'behive' the other day and plan to never use it. However, it is available should I ever need it. I've got an air oil cooler from a baja too. The way I figure it is if the oil to water cooler is barely ok for stock power, then adding an air oil cooler couldn't hurt. If only the air oil cooler was as large as a stock Mazda unit. Blah! I'll end up finding a use for this behive if I keep thinking about it.
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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 02:56 AM
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im gonna run synthetic and my only mods are omp and emissions removal so even just a plain beehive would do ok

adding a heater core would be ALOT easier that a small oil cooler on the line
hell for that trouble id pay the $$ for a FMOC
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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 02:59 AM
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i think you should leave the beehive! it works great ! why would you want to change it? you dont have to worry about the oil cooler lines leaking or even worse popping! thats common too! i know several guys using the beehive oil coolers with no problems making above 500 hp! on 13b engines !! here is a beehive pic, 12 back to back runs on the dyno and the oil temp was fine!

http://www.rotaryshack.com/images/680b.jpeg

Last edited by 680RWHP12A; Apr 8, 2003 at 03:03 AM.
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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 03:01 AM
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egh mosty just some spare parts that would help relibility

anyways im sure it will be 100 times better than what was on my car when i bought my 82 (hose strait from the oil ouput to the input on the bottom of the motor) he
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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 03:06 AM
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From: chatsworth,Ca.
hook it up like it came from the factory!i have customers that run the beehive on stock smog california cars in the summer with a/c that dont have overheating problems! with 200k miles and still going!

take the $$$ you would spend on a front mount oil cooler and buy an electric fan!
you will notice a difference in engine temps(usally the oe fan clutches dont work right) and it will free up at least 5 hp!! for sure

Last edited by 680RWHP12A; Apr 8, 2003 at 03:09 AM.
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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 08:39 AM
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Originally posted by wwilliam54
im gonna run synthetic and my only mods are omp and emissions removal so even just a plain beehive would do ok

adding a heater core would be ALOT easier that a small oil cooler on the line
hell for that trouble id pay the $$ for a FMOC
I think that it might help. I don't see how it could damage anything.
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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 08:48 AM
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I'm with 680RWHP12A on this one. It's the ol KISS method!

The more simple the design the less likely to have problems. Especially if it is working fine.
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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 01:34 PM
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From: Raleigh,MS
Originally posted by PaulAber
I think that it might help. I don't see how it could damage anything.
im going with this train of thought, im not adding any moving parts, so what the hell im putting it on the engine when i get it in.
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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 05:24 PM
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Originally posted by MyRxBad
I'm with 680RWHP12A on this one. It's the ol KISS method!

The more simple the design the less likely to have problems. Especially if it is working fine.
hmmm, I don't believe the beehive falls into the KISS category. Last I checked it had two extra o-rings to go bad (and they do) and 2 extra heater hoses and associated connections to go bad (and they do). There is a reason that Mazda only used this type of oil cooler for three years. It doesn't protect the engine very well
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Old Apr 8, 2003 | 05:40 PM
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ehh, I still have a Beehive in mine, and havent had any problems with it.
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Old Apr 9, 2003 | 01:30 AM
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Hey 680RWHP12A, my beehive metal line has been tweaked to fit a 13B. I'm also going to check the O rings for hardness. At least two are brand new; never been run, and I've got two others that came out of a very low mileage engine that could replace the other two. Or I could get two brand new ones. Man, I'll end up using this beehive if I'm not carefull!
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Old Apr 9, 2003 | 02:26 PM
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Originally posted by inittab
hmmm, I don't believe the beehive falls into the KISS category. Last I checked it had two extra o-rings to go bad (and they do) and 2 extra heater hoses and associated connections to go bad (and they do). There is a reason that Mazda only used this type of oil cooler for three years. It doesn't protect the engine very well
exactly its needlessly complicated and it doesn't work for ****. Switching to the air oil cooler isnt rocket science. And you can easily get the stuff needed for the basic swap for under $100. It will take you a day or two, but no more (unless you run into complications like i did, but that only added an extra day) Its well worth the time and money.
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Old Apr 9, 2003 | 03:32 PM
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The beehive is meant to stabilize the oil/water temps faster upon cold-starting. Any cooling effect is purely incidental.
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Old Apr 9, 2003 | 03:36 PM
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Very true, in fact that was probably their thinking behind it. It took notably longer for my car to warm up this winter after doing the swap. Oh well, still much better.
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