1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Beehive with fmoc

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Old Nov 19, 2018 | 03:22 PM
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Beehive with fmoc

I’m going to try again but this time I’m going to add a mishimoto thermostat the way I ran it was with an adapter where the oil filter went and ran 2 other lines and mounted the oil filter externally the problem I was having was that my oil pressure was going crazy high as soon as i gave it any revs I want to keep the beehive cuz unfortunately I have a small 13 row oil cooler and was told it was to for a rotary why ya think my oil pressure was so high was it because i did not buy a thermostat ? I’m really looking at some $50 oil coolers on eBay
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Old Nov 19, 2018 | 03:37 PM
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For us to understand what you have, please post pics and a diagram. Over cooled oil will cause an issue and make the oil pressure go up until it warms up enough.
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Old Nov 19, 2018 | 04:12 PM
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If you want to do this right, get either an 80 or 84/85 SE FMOC built for the job and connect is with the proper fittings. It will have a built in oil control thermostat for proper lubrication and will have enough flow to actually cool the engine correctly. Anything else is just asking for problems unless you enjoy pulling and rebuilding engines.
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Old Nov 19, 2018 | 07:12 PM
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That small oil cooler may have been the cause of the pressure rise. Probably can't flow enough at higher rpms. Do like duck says. Ditch the beehive too.
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Old Nov 19, 2018 | 11:41 PM
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I plan on using this I don’t really understand how is this to small to flow I’ve seen 13bs use this same size oil cooler with no beehive with no problems I’m thinking is the beehive
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Old Nov 19, 2018 | 11:52 PM
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j

I plan on using these things with a mishimoto thermostat if all goes bad I’m just gonna buy a bigger oil cooler from eBay for $50 and toss the beehive run with directly with the bigger oil cooler I don’t see how a small beehive can work and not a oil cooler 🤔

Last edited by rx7junkie170; Nov 19, 2018 at 11:56 PM.
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Old Nov 19, 2018 | 11:54 PM
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Jj


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Old Nov 20, 2018 | 07:09 AM
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The thermostat that LongDuck is describing is the oil pellet in the oil cooler. its thermostatically controlled to control oil flow based on oil temperatures. Has nothing to do with coolant temperatures. The stock SE oil cooler is very large and thick. Probably about three of those oil coolers thick. Oil is used to help cool the engine, thus a large oil cooler is preferable. Don't risk destroying your engine by using cheap parts and a hoaky setup. Use the original Mazda oil cooler, lines, and filter pedestal. The beehive oil cooler works just fine and would be much better than that small oil cooler you are wanting to add. All of us that have added a reply are well versed in these cars. We have seen things like this over the years and are trying to give you solid advice.
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Old Nov 20, 2018 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by rx7junkie170
I plan on using this I don’t really understand how is this to small to flow I’ve seen 13bs use this same size oil cooler with no beehive with no problems I’m thinking is the beehive
This is the problem, you probably don't understand the fluid flow and thermal property requirements for cooling the oil for a rotary. I'm not sure I do either. Thats why we are all saying basically the same thing, get a known good cooler (SE or SA or FC FMOC and the lines needed). The beehive actually works but the FMOC are better.
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Old Nov 20, 2018 | 09:16 AM
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That eBay cooler is a single pass unit,I wouldn't trust that on a lawnmower let alone a rotary engine. You need to understand how much the rotary engine relys on the oil cooler either beehive or FMOC. They take more heat off the engine than cooling system and specifically where it's needed most,e shaft,bearings,inside rotors. That little oil cooler you have is not near enough in size to do the job and is not thermostatically controlled. I know you intend to add an inline thermostat,basically cobbling a system together with divorced oil filter. All thes add ins come with there own addition to restriction of volume of oil flow.

Am certain the cars you have seen with such setups are more for show,wow factor. I have doubts the engines in those cars modified or not would have the same life equivalency as an engine run with an oe oil cooling system.

There's a reason that eBay oil cooler is $50 and a Mazda one is $700. Mazda put a lot of r&d into cooling a rotary,the fact a 13B engine can easily go 250k+is proof of that.

Were you to duplicate the efficiency of what Mazda designed,you would have thousands invested. Look in classifieds on this forum,part outs. You can put together a good used FMOC setup for couple hundred dollars-that works well
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Old Nov 20, 2018 | 12:47 PM
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MThanks guys i contacted the guy that a old me through the oil cooler and he send me this for free I currently don’t have a couple hundred dollars and my beehive is leaking this is the size size:158*420*44mm
Overall size:506*162*56mm
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Old Nov 20, 2018 | 06:41 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by rx7junkie170
MThanks guys i contacted the guy that a old me through the oil cooler and he send me this for free I currently don’t have a couple hundred dollars and my beehive is leaking this is the size
its not a very fun job, but the beehive leaks because the O rings go bad, its a cheap fix.
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Old Nov 21, 2018 | 06:02 AM
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As stated above, when the beehive leaks oil, there are four o-rings that need to be replaced. The job takes about an hour and costs less than $15. Remove the beehive and you will see that there are two o-rings that seal the oil filter pedestal to the rear iron. You will replace these two. While the oil cooler is on the bench, you will split it from the pedestal and find two more o-rings between the actual cooler and the mounting pedestal. Replace these two o-rings and reinstall the oil cooler. Be sure to order new banjo washer for the banjo bolt on the hard line that connects to the oil cooler and be sure to lube the new o-rings upon install. Engine oil works well for this.. Clean the area well with brake clean and run the engine and check for leaks. Problem solved and there is no longer risk to ruining your engine or adding some goofy cobbled together setup.
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