nwalek

from the 1984 training manual -> the oil pressure control valve spring (opcvs)located in the front cover is different between 13b and 12a engines. to avoid leakage from the oil cooler mating surface, free length opcvs of 12a is shorter and lower the oil pressure <- from 2-8.

is this of any concern when converting from a beehive cooler ('83 gsl) to a 2g fmoc?

additionally, is there a source for banjo bolts for the ome lines? i didnt see the size needed (16mm x1.5 & 18mm x1.5) listed at summit and the local part stores dont carry. tia.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I used the fittings off of an old set of lines when I did mine. You might find them at a wrecker. I was not aware of the difference in the spring, interesting. I need to check that one out.

nwalek

they salt the roads here, and the wreckers crush 'em rather quick. I havent had any good luck finding fbs in the yards. thanks. if anyone knows if this spring is an issue let me know. my oil pressure is as expected with the beehive, just suffering from o-ring failure and wanting to go fmoc.

13BTOY

iTrader: (1)

I did this swap without issues and have not heard of anyone ever having one. You should be fine.

Thanks, Ed

Julian

iTrader: (14)

We racers, change the change the opcvs and oil pressure regulator (as rules allow) and use the Mazda Comp or FD higher pressure units without problems on beehives or FM's. Check, Pegasus for bango fittings. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/

nwalek

dealer pricing Towne Mazda orchard park ny 3/17/2006
connectors part# 993811400 $7.13 each need 3
crush washers # 995621800 #3.41 each need 6

thanks for all your help. I added the above for people who search as much as i do

signofinfinity

maybe off topic..... i just had in mind to remove the front cover valve and set it in a remote location like close to the oil filter.....

anyone done that? recomended?

my front cover valve got stuck.......

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

That valve acts as a secondary oil pressure regulator, it is first in line from the pil pump and relieves directly to the pan. Remote mounting doesn't sound like a good idea to me.

Have you determined why the valve is sticking? It is either burnt oil residue build up or the plunger is scored. The first can be cleaned, the second, you can replace the plunger if it is scored. If the hole the plunger rides in is scored too badly to clean up, replace the front cover. The hole can be line honed similiar to rebuilding master cylinders.

signofinfinity

wellllll, this is the thing.

i had the cover powder coated. at some pointin time i got an indication of low oil presure.... in the first 50 miles, and sudden vibration in the drive train...

the pellet was scored when i pulled it out.... badly. it seemed like it had ceased up. needless to say it destroyed the engines internals.

i figured that the heat for the plastic coating my have distorted the face, and at tempreture the pellet got stuck down reliefing all the pressure into the sump and destroying the engine....

thats why i want a remote valve... and i want to keep the powder coated front cover to spite it too!!!