I had to relocate my battery to the back while I'm doing the turbo swap to make room for the intercooler piping. I used bolt on lugs on all ends and they've been crimped, soldered and heatshrinked and the positive cables are protected by conduit. Don't worry about the loose wires you can see. I still need to wire the ecu and **** so it will all be neat when it's finished.

The main battery cables are 1g with the positive running straight under the car to the starter and the negative connected to the spare wheel bracket.



Notice the extra 5g wire connected to the starter...



...which runs to the 2nd gen. fusebox under the bonnet.



I also added a second ground strap from the strut tower to the starter bolt.

 

lookin' sweet man! i would have put the battery on the other side of the car to offset drivers weight tho

 

I did.

 

Nice job, good wiring practice. will last forever

 

oh lol didnt notice you're from aussie land

 

Interesting but honestly I wouldn't EVER put a battery inside the car unless it was a sealed battery... Can't batterys explode? Don't they send off poisionous fumes? hmmm I would get a optima deep cycle...

 

Sealed battery box with an outside vent works for regular wet batteries.
I wired mine up exactly the same way,works great.The pass. bin does make a more discreet,balanced place for a battery, but the small space dictates using a recumbent gas battery.

 

oh lol sorry I am stupid I didn't notice the box lid in the spare tire compartment there...

 

so does the positive go. battery>starter>fuseablelink>alt? I want to move my battery, but I am not totally sure of what I need to rewire...

 

Spot on. You can either keep the alternator and main positive wired together as per factory or run a seperate fuse for each.

 

Being an electrician by trade comes in handy when working on cars.

 

The one thing alot of people overlook, do it right the first time and you'll never have to mess with it or worry about it again

 

Shouldn't you grind the paint off at all the grounds to amke sure you get good contact or is that just for mobile electronics?

 

Using wing nuts on the battery terminal is what I always recommend for easy storage. No need for a wrench to disconnect the terminals. And yeah, thats how I wire the fuse box...straight to the starter. Clean job REV

 

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I'm doing a battery relocation to the boot. Can I run the alt and a couple of other positive wires straight to the positive terminal on the starter?

 

batterys dont weigh 200 lbs, im sure the exhaust does a good job at offsetting the weight. ( on lhd cars)

 

Not the alternator wire but the main wire (that piece of wire that runs from the battery's + terminal to the fusible link).

NOTE:
When you do battery relocation, I highly recommend adding an in-line fuse for safety issues. It will work without it but be sure that the cable is secure and use grommet in the firewall area.

 

The FACTORY weighs-three-tons exhaust isn't enough to offset the combined left side weight of:

The battery
The steering box
The master cylinders/power assist
The driver (duh!)
The fuel tank
The coils

Adding A/C and P/S makes this all EVEN WORSE.

And to top it off... the ENGINE is offset to the left for exhaust clearance on RHD models. So is the spare tire, IIRC.

Then you put an aftermarket weighs-nothing 16 gauge throughout exhaust system that probably weighs, ports to tip, less than the factory muffler, let alone muffler + converters + manifold + two or three feet of pipe connecting all that stuff crammed under the car... and you make the left bias even worse.

My coil-spring-measurement calculations have the left front of my car about 80lb heavier than the right front. That's BEFORE I sit my heavy *** behind the wheel! Moving that battery off of IN FRONT OF THE LEFT FRONT to somewhere more reasonable will help fix that, and give me back some of that left front suspension travel that I need.

(Which is where this thread came to my attention... thinking of how to mount the battery to behind the passenger (US) seat)

BTW: My GSL, with A/C and P/S removed, headers, driver in car, and 1/2 tank of fuel, still weighs 100lb more in the front than the rear. I've yet to see an RX-7 that had even weight distribution, yet so many advertisement-educated "experts" claim otherwise. But the Scales of Truth, they no lie!

 

The funniest thing is that Mazda even advertised and listed the car as a "front mid engine" car.

 

It is isnt it?

 

It's pretty close. To be front-mid mounted the engine should be located behind the front axle line. The 7 doesn't quite fit that definition, but its damn close. Just shhh... dont tell anyone.

edit: Its on the wikipedia list for front-mid engined cars... were any of the later models fully front-mid??? I won't change it if you won't...

 

hows it going mate? (thats what they say in aul.? right?) ANYWAY YOU NEED TO TUN A GROUND wire to the starter or engine from the battery. i had a case with my TII fuel compuer where the computer didnt get proper grounding from the battery and certin things worked intermintintly. (sp) i put my relocated ground wire from the trunk to the motor block and it worked flawlessly.
aaron
just trying to help.
PS THE INSTALL LOOKS GREAT!

 

The thing I would be worried about is being rear-ended. The battery would make a great projectile and it's filled with acid to boot. Just a thought.

 

I agree, I would much rather have it behind the seat in one of the compartments.

 

They could also call it a raspberry sundae engined car. "Front-mid engine" is not an SAE recognized drive configuration.

There's front engined (engine in front of passenger compartment), mid engined (engine behind passenger compartment but in front of rear axle), and rear engine (engine behind rear axle). All are fundamentally different in terms of chassis layout.

Mazda's marketing-speak just means "We moved the front axle centerline a foot forwards". BFD. So it's just like a C3 Corvette, a Toyota Previa, or half of the tractor-trailer rigs out there.