Long story short, the axle oil seal went out, and i leaked all my oil out which caused the axle bearing to go bad and my whole wheel with the axle shaft came off my car when i was driving it.


Now, I will attach a picture of the shaft... I don't think there is a bearing on it but im not sure.

http://i52.tinypic.com/2e5qeeu.jpg

If someone can link my to a guide on how to replace the bearing and seal that would be amazing!

 

Right at the top of the 1st Gen Section page there is a sticky that says something like, "Get Your Copy of the FSM Here!"

 

That shows the inner bearing race, and the locking collar. Im guessing the outer bearing race is still in the end of the axle tube. The rear wheel bearings are sealed bearings and don't rely on the rear end gear oil for lubrication.

 

Well im confused... How do I remove the bearing and locking collar from the shaft? And how am I supposed to get the rest of the bearing out of the tube?

 

You'll need to take the axle to a machine shop what has a floor-stand press, have the old race pressed off the axle using a bearing separator, and a new bearing pressed on. Won't cost you much usually; maybe $20 or $30 in labor, plus you'll need a new bearing and seal.

Before you do that, you need to remove the brake components on that side, remove the brake backing plate from the axle shaft and take it with you, since it needs to be in place on the axle when the bearing is pressed on. If it was damaged when the axle exited, you'll need to find a replacement.

This is all detailed in section 9 of the Factory Service Manual (FSM) which as Flight of Pain mentioned can be downloaded from the FAQ thread.

Probably best to do both of 'em; if one was that bad, the other's probably not much better.

The "rest of the bearing" should come out of the tube after you're removed the brake backing plate; part of it's purpose is to keep the bearing in there.

 

Do I need a spacer or just the bearing and collar?

 

as far as i know you can reuse the spacer?

 

The factory service manual (you've downloaded it by now I hope!) specifies to grind and spit the collar to remove it. A press or puller is to be used to remove the bearing only. If care is used, a grinder can be used to cut off the bearing as well.

The press fit of the collar on the axle is tighter than the inner race of the bearing on the axle, and it's that collar that keeps the axle in the axle housing. Each time a collar is pressed on or off the shaft, some wear occurs, and this wear compromises the press fit. The FSM writers obviously had this in mind, as they warn to not press the collar on with any lubrication present, and ensure the pressing force is above some minimum value. If pressing force when installing the collar is too low, replace collar or axle.

Oh yeah, and don't forget to put the backing plate in position (and facing the correct direction) before pressing the bearing and collar in place.

 

Also make sure the shop you take it to does not use heat of any kind to remove the bearing. I had this happen twice to me. Apparently the machine shop I took it to was use to doing large cars and truck axles. The heat will bend the axle.

 

that must have sounded like every helicopter was above you....

 

If your in a pinch, it can all be done in your driveway. as stated before, you can cut the bearing off if your really careful. You can also press the new one on, with a little ingenuity. If you can find a pipe that is the right size, so that it rests ONLY on the INNER race, you can pound it on. Ive done it a couple times. Not fun, not super easy, and not the right way, but it can be done.

 

I use a 2ft section of galvanized pipe as a slide hammer to pound the new bearing on and the collar. To get the collar and bearing off I have had good luck with grinding a small slot in the collar or bearing(about half the depth) and using a cold chisel to crack it all the way through.

DO NOT FORGET TO PUT THE BACKING PLATE ON BEFORE THE BEARING!

once you drive the bearing or collar on they are not coming off without destroying them.

 

+1 On doing it yourself.

Use a dremel or cutoff wheel to slot the collar and bearing races. Then hit
them with a chisel until they open a bit and slide them off. I went to the
hardware store and got some cast iron pipe that was exactly the
right ID to fit the OD of the axle. I used the pipe like a giant slap hammer
to push the new collars back on. The bearings will actually almost slide right
on. Do both sides while your in there as the other one is not far behind.
Its usually the right side that goes first. Also replace the axle seal as well
because I'm sure it needs it.