Aux Ports
05-25-05, 10:02 PM
#1
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Aux Ports
OK so I really wanna know what it feels like when all 6 ports open up. I was gonna see how it feels if I just wire em open...if I lose to much power im gonna just buy the sleeves from Pineapple Racing.
What Im confused on is wiring them open. Do you just push the little black actuator down and tie it like that? or what? Can anyone post some pics of wired open ports?
I know this is a easy procedure, but I have not seen any exact instructions. I did search!
Thanks guys!
What Im confused on is wiring them open. Do you just push the little black actuator down and tie it like that? or what? Can anyone post some pics of wired open ports?
I know this is a easy procedure, but I have not seen any exact instructions. I did search!
Thanks guys!
05-26-05, 12:27 AM
#5
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
If you're intent on doing this, you'll want to wire both of them open, otherwise, you'll be running a different A/F mixture in the front and rear rotor, most likey killing power all around.
If you remove the actuators themselves, you can simply rotate the sleeves to the open position and they'll likely stay there (no wire necessary). If you want to be sure they stay open, just wire them around the rotating shaft to the metal guides that determine the full open/full closed positions.
(I can't believe I'm actually helping somebody to do this...).
I highly recommend getting your exhaust backpressure system working correctly in the first place, and get your actuators operating in the correct fashion. The reason why the SE's have '6'-ports is to preserve low rpm air velocity for better low-end torque, while also opening up greater airflow at high rpm to take advantage of the larger swept volume of the 13b EFI engine. Bypassing this system will rob your mid-range power and kill low rpm torque.
P.S. - this is where all the 'wire-your-ports' guys chime in with how they instantly gained 50 rwhp with simply some twist ties around their actuators. Let's see your butt-dyno charts!
If you remove the actuators themselves, you can simply rotate the sleeves to the open position and they'll likely stay there (no wire necessary). If you want to be sure they stay open, just wire them around the rotating shaft to the metal guides that determine the full open/full closed positions.
(I can't believe I'm actually helping somebody to do this...).
I highly recommend getting your exhaust backpressure system working correctly in the first place, and get your actuators operating in the correct fashion. The reason why the SE's have '6'-ports is to preserve low rpm air velocity for better low-end torque, while also opening up greater airflow at high rpm to take advantage of the larger swept volume of the 13b EFI engine. Bypassing this system will rob your mid-range power and kill low rpm torque.
P.S. - this is where all the 'wire-your-ports' guys chime in with how they instantly gained 50 rwhp with simply some twist ties around their actuators. Let's see your butt-dyno charts!
05-26-05, 12:55 AM
#6
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i more kept it since my exhaust is straight through and the airpump is removed... nicer to have a simpler engine bay. less weight = more power. simplicity of the bay is also damned nice compared to a stock SE bay. this is just my own crazed opinion tho 
05-27-05, 12:03 PM
#7
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I must agree that low and mid range torque suffer with them wired open heh.. There are kits around that replace the backpressure actuators with electric ones, which can be activated at a certain RPM. Perhaps that would be a good option.
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10-16-05, 02:44 AM
#9
The only ones I've ever seen done that way were not sold in kit form but were basically home made setups. I've never had any problems with just running them off of the air pump. The air pump is such a small drag on the engine that you can not tell any gains by removing it so may as well put it to good use if emissions are no longer required.
10-16-05, 03:49 AM
#10
dddddddddddddddduuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuudddddddddeeeeeee !!! Just fawking remove the sleves!!! I took mine out and with a weber i still can put it in first and drive up a hill without the clutch at idle!!!!! torque is not an issue at all, there is a lot of it!
10-16-05, 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by rotarygod
The only ones I've ever seen done that way were not sold in kit form but were basically home made setups. I've never had any problems with just running them off of the air pump. The air pump is such a small drag on the engine that you can not tell any gains by removing it so may as well put it to good use if emissions are no longer required.
10-16-05, 04:03 AM
#12
Originally Posted by RotaryPoweredCop
Now that you metioned it, I remember seeing a write-up on how to use an air compressor pump to make em open. Cant seem to find it though. I may use the air pump.
10-16-05, 11:15 AM
#13
I did alot of reading in the 2nd gen forum, all of it. I decided to just **** the sleeves and remove them. My exhaust was in good shape the overall condition was good the the port actuators worked fine. I wasnt impressed my performance though. Once i removed them and everything related the actuators and had my injectors cleaned and balanced and replaced some vaccume lines that were in need of replacing, WHAT A DIFFERENCE !! I did not notice much of a differrence in low end loss at all but I definatly felt a gain up high. If you do it which I would reccomend I would only do it if the injectors were cleaned as well.
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