Anyone have experience replacing 12A oil metering lines?
#1
Original Leather
Thread Starter
Anyone have experience replacing 12A oil metering lines?
I have found the source of my smoke problem and it is a leaking OMP line. My local Mazda service center won’t do the replacement because of the age of the car so I was thinking of doing it myself. I have found 3 potential sources for the lines and wanted to know if anyone has tackled this project and what potential problems to look out for. I have a 1980 12A engine. Does anyone have a schematic of the oil system for the 12A engine? Thanks for any advice.
#2
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
I've not replaced the hard plastic lines yet, but I did replace the upper
rubber hoses using chain saw fuel line I got from HomeDepot. Works
great and can handle the oil and the heat.
I don't see why you couldn't use it for the entire tube. I'm thinking about
doing just that because the old lines are so ugly and yellow. I guess just
make sure to keep it away from direct contact with hot areas.
rubber hoses using chain saw fuel line I got from HomeDepot. Works
great and can handle the oil and the heat.
I don't see why you couldn't use it for the entire tube. I'm thinking about
doing just that because the old lines are so ugly and yellow. I guess just
make sure to keep it away from direct contact with hot areas.
#3
Stigulus Moderatorai
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Since you are new, I'll give you your one freebee. The schematic of the oil system can be found in the factory service manual, found at http://rx7.foxed.ca Replacing the oil metering lines is straightforward, pop off old lines, push on new ones. Good luck. If it is just the rubber part of the line that is leaking, you can get oil resistant rubber tubing to replace the rubber ends.
#4
Out In the Barn
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The chain saw fuel line a good find. Thanks for the info. Do not use vaccum line or line that can n ot take the heat.
If you're only replacing the rubber portion and keeping the clear. One tip I have to take the old rubber part off. Then put super glue on the ends of the clear line, about an inch up, and then push the new rubber line on. I did this and it worked great until the rubber line got to hot and deformed. I'll use the chain saw fuel line next time.
If you're only replacing the rubber portion and keeping the clear. One tip I have to take the old rubber part off. Then put super glue on the ends of the clear line, about an inch up, and then push the new rubber line on. I did this and it worked great until the rubber line got to hot and deformed. I'll use the chain saw fuel line next time.
#6
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yeah that's kind of weird, they wouldn't do it, most places don't wanna work on the car because they might break the lines, but um well...
anyways, if you buy new lines, they just slip on and slip off, you need no tools
anyways, if you buy new lines, they just slip on and slip off, you need no tools
#7
1st-Class Engine Janitor
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On my '80, IIRC there's a metal strap midway down the OMP lines, which is held to the car by a bolt thru the front cover - - I think one of the water pump bolts. Been a while since I looked at it.
Other than that, they're just rubber hose ends with small wire clips on them. Slide on and off carefully as the plastic hardline gets brittle with age.
Other than that, they're just rubber hose ends with small wire clips on them. Slide on and off carefully as the plastic hardline gets brittle with age.
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#9
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I replaced mine because I broke one fiddling with my carb. Somehow 25 year old plastic just isn't as strong as it should be Its really easy and you shouldn't need a schematic. Use needle-nose pliers or vice grips to take of the clips at the carb and the OMP. Do one line at a time so you don't mix the two up. The lines route down the front of the engine behind some accessories. You can feed them through their route without taking anything off.
#11
RX HVN
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I think what may be missing here is the leak problem - condition of the OMP lines notwithstanding, the OMP itself should be pulled and re-sealed. 2x 10mm bolts + gasket (Mazda) + (recommended)
Pineappleracing.com 's handy DIY OMP rebuild kit ($25-ish complete with How-2 DVD!). Super easy to do and worth it on yer ol' SA....
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Pineappleracing.com 's handy DIY OMP rebuild kit ($25-ish complete with How-2 DVD!). Super easy to do and worth it on yer ol' SA....
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
#12
Stigulus Moderatorai
iTrader: (3)
I think what may be missing here is the leak problem - condition of the OMP lines notwithstanding, the OMP itself should be pulled and re-sealed. 2x 10mm bolts + gasket (Mazda) + (recommended)
Pineappleracing.com 's handy DIY OMP rebuild kit ($25-ish complete with How-2 DVD!). Super easy to do and worth it on yer ol' SA....
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Pineappleracing.com 's handy DIY OMP rebuild kit ($25-ish complete with How-2 DVD!). Super easy to do and worth it on yer ol' SA....
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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