Another Turbo Fb is born!
11-04-05, 10:31 PM
#1
Another Turbo Fb is born!
Guys, just indulge me as I carry on about my newly complete turbo Fb!
Had an original old school draw through Cartech turbo system in my basement for the past two years with only about 3000 miles from first owner before he wrapped the car around a tree. I've been slowly prepping the car for the past two summers: installing Fc oil cooler, replacing fuel pump, installed oil baffle plate and higher oil pressure regulator, getting a wideband O2 sensor.
Cartech claims 180 bhp at 5 lbs boost up to a maximum 200 bhp at 9lbs, any more and you risk knock. Still working on tuning the Holley. Incidently after reading the hundreds of Holley threads I have to agree with the carb gurus (Sterling & Rx7Carl) that most people have a carb too big for their application. Cartech reccomended a 390 cfm Holley and I got the 4160 series 390 cfm model. Some accelerator pump cam tuning is still needed but I don't anticipate any problems with actuating the vacuum secondaries and only increased the power valve - which should not be plugged as everyone wants to do.
Winter setting in so actual road tests in 2006! BTW no problems starting with draw through, instantly fires up. Now have to worry about this locked dizzy business - I'm not sold on the idea.
Had an original old school draw through Cartech turbo system in my basement for the past two years with only about 3000 miles from first owner before he wrapped the car around a tree. I've been slowly prepping the car for the past two summers: installing Fc oil cooler, replacing fuel pump, installed oil baffle plate and higher oil pressure regulator, getting a wideband O2 sensor.
Cartech claims 180 bhp at 5 lbs boost up to a maximum 200 bhp at 9lbs, any more and you risk knock. Still working on tuning the Holley. Incidently after reading the hundreds of Holley threads I have to agree with the carb gurus (Sterling & Rx7Carl) that most people have a carb too big for their application. Cartech reccomended a 390 cfm Holley and I got the 4160 series 390 cfm model. Some accelerator pump cam tuning is still needed but I don't anticipate any problems with actuating the vacuum secondaries and only increased the power valve - which should not be plugged as everyone wants to do.
Winter setting in so actual road tests in 2006! BTW no problems starting with draw through, instantly fires up. Now have to worry about this locked dizzy business - I'm not sold on the idea.
11-04-05, 11:02 PM
#3
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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congrats! you'll have a fuggin blast with it 
on my other 12a i ran the dizzy locked, as of now i'm not. just your standard 12a distributor.. you just have to retard the hell out of the overall timing to where max advance at 4000rpms is where you want it. mine is still maxed at 10 degrees total advance. works great. still has awesome off boost drivability.
on my other 12a i ran the dizzy locked, as of now i'm not. just your standard 12a distributor.. you just have to retard the hell out of the overall timing to where max advance at 4000rpms is where you want it. mine is still maxed at 10 degrees total advance. works great. still has awesome off boost drivability.
11-04-05, 11:54 PM
#4
Certified Old Fart
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What can I say - NICE.
BTW your steering wheel looks perfect. I have a -se and my burgandy leather wheel looks like crap. Local shops won't try recovering it. Is yours original, or did you find somebody who would recover it?
BTW your steering wheel looks perfect. I have a -se and my burgandy leather wheel looks like crap. Local shops won't try recovering it. Is yours original, or did you find somebody who would recover it?
11-05-05, 02:17 AM
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
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So, what's with the beehive if you installed a FC oil cooler, are you daisy chaining them?
Nice install, pull it out and let's see some outdoor shots, the turbo on the rear is nice.
Nice install, pull it out and let's see some outdoor shots, the turbo on the rear is nice.
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11-05-05, 03:46 PM
#9
You don't need to lock the distributor. The setup with my 13b camden is to run the vaccuum advance from a source "below" the turbocharger for true manifold vaccuum. Then set the timing a factory spec "with" the advance hooked up. This will give you vaccuum advance for cruise and function as an immediate vaccuum retard when under boost and will promptly offset the mechanical advance. Cost = $0.00 Alternative, dissamble the distributor and weld the mech advance or spend big $ on an MSD with programmable timing retard.
11-05-05, 08:14 PM
#11
Because the more you port a rotary the less driveable and liveable it becomes in town, power only comes on at insane rpm. This way fuel consumption and low end torque is decent in town and you have boost power in reserve. Plus the satisfaction of adding a turbo.
11-06-05, 07:22 PM
#12
BTW Whanrow, my 85 Rx7 is the base S model so the steering wheel is vinyl. I don't know if vinyl ages better than leather or because the car never saw a lot of direct sunlight. I've had it since new, 2nd year university, so that gives away how truly old I am.
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