$150FC

I searched.

On page 19 of "the" rat's nest removal tutorial, he says:

Run a hose from the oil fill pipe to a location just below the valve (lower right). run a hose from the carb vent to the same location; run a short hose from the bottom of the valve and use a t-fititng ot connect all three.

Now, right before that he already tells me to connect three vacuum lines to the purge valve, so should the vac line going from the bottom of the purge valve be teed or what?

Also where is the carb vent, but that is less pressing than the other question. I must just be having a major brain fart. I can't figure out what he's talking about. Isn't the "short hose from the bottom of the valve" already going to the carb spacer?

Thanks,
Vic

cdrad51

Sorry Vic, can't help you there. I never paid attention to that section of the tutorial, as I didn't have a carb vent in my sterling carb. My suggestion is pm Carl and ask him wth is he talking about, because I just read that page too and got confused. Or, your confusion is contagious

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I had trouble with that part of the write up also. Better deatailed pics or a routing diagram would make it clearer for me. The vent is the approx. 3/8" nipple just below the fuel return hose.

Iirc, you do need a 5/16" tee to connect the rest of the hoses.

$150FC

Bump, what is he talking about? Help me! Heh.

$150FC

or



These are the best looking ideas I can find, are they accurate?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Works for me. The only problem I have with that routing is the 2 hoses at the filler neck. When I had the nipple on the filler neck open, oil can come out of it when topping the oil off. Switch those 2 hoses and the oil is pulled back into the filler neck.

$150FC

Well the bottom line on the filler neck isn't touched at all when you remove the rat's nest...it's run the same way stock as in either of those diagrams.

Or am I misunderstanding you?

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

I'm running a PCV valve instead. It's a helluva lot simpler imho. One tube from the base of the oil filler neck to the un-used vacuum spot at the base of the manifold near the shutter valve with a PCV valve in the middle. Threaded end goes towards manifold.

Another tube connects your charcoal canister to your carb vent, and a third connects the other nipple on your centre iron to a fresh air source (your airbox).

That's it. Then the only thing coming from your carb spacer is the line for the vac advance and everything else is capped.

Pics are in a thread in the archives somewhere. Search the 1st gen section for any threads where I say PCV and you should find it

Jon

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Though those diagrams look like they should work too.

Jon

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Read the whole thread
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/suggestions-fixing-oil-catch-can-problem-226214/

$150FC

All 18 pages, huh? You can't condense that at all?

$150FC

Did it like the bottom picture, got it to crank. Had the idle cranked waay up, so I slowly backed it off. It was idling at 1500 or so when it died. Wasn't running for long enough to really recharge the battery (and it's dark and it's raining) so I guess I'll try to get out there tomorrow before work.

I have a sneaky suspicion there's still a grande vacuum leak (i almost think I can hear it? but the other two guys can't. and I don't know where it'd be) Otherwise, I guess maybe I'll need to mess with the idle mixture to get it down to normal.

Any thoughts?

cdrad51

Well, you're in hell, and so am I so let me know the exact address and I can drop by and take a look.

fcdorifto08

Did you forget to plug the shutter valve? What about the line that hooked up to the anti-after burn valve? I used the Mazspeed and that drawn diagram. Everything works great and so much better. My car idles very smooth and steady. I say if you don't have emissions to worry about, the rat's nest removal is probably one of the best things you can do.

$150FC

Ok. I used two blockoff plates, so when it stops raining I'll check those and make sure they're tight.

The line that hooked up to the AAB I replaced completely so it's not a capped off T, just one line from point A to B. There are two other lines that I replaced on that side, as well.

On top of the motor, I've blocked off all the inlets on the air filter housing.

On the driver's side, I replaced all the vac line with new stuff. So it's exactly like the diagram I posted, and all the lines are new and secure.

The shutter valve is the big silver guy with one large opening and one small opening on the side, right? It's next to all the other vacuum nipples on the carb spacer? Yes, I plugged it, but I'll have to double check it because my 3/8 vac cap seemed too small and my 1/2 vacuum cap seemed a tad big (so I ziptied the 1/2.) (Can't this thing be removed? I guess you have to have the carb off...)

Also It seems my throttle bumper (the little round black thing for the AC) might not be functioning right. The cap I used seems like it may not be tight enough for a full seal?

I still think my Accel. Pump is still not squirting correctly. My idle was screwed damn near all the way in (idled at 3000 without the choke, heh) so I backed it out...My air/fuel is still at three turns out, which is where others have told me is a good starting point.