RXTbone

I'm on my third Advance Auto alternator over the last 20K or so. Unfortunately, they're dying and I have a theory why. For a period, the alternator is just fine - until I redline the car. Failure seems to come right afterwards - not every time, but when it does fail - it's immediately after high RPMs. Is it possible that the internal regulator is being fried?

I have been fortunate enough to Advance exchange them at the store, but I think I'm running out of the exchanges. I don't know if the alternators are for other model cars also, and not designed for the higher RPMs of the rotary? I'm not a big stereo guy who's looking to upgrade alternators, wiring, etc. - but are there some reliable brand names outside the parts store?

Thanks in advance!

GSLSEforme

What kind of rpms and what are symptoms that make you say they're dying? Who is testing them,ever had your car electrical system tested as a whole?
There are different places to purchase an alternator,chainstores don't really deal in the best quality regardless of the "warranty".
A lot of rebuilders are putting out garbage,most with nothing more than a glass beaded case/fresh paint job and only replacing failed parts. This is not a rebuilt part,but most make it out of the 90 day warranty. Could try to return it,get your money back and try a different brand,look at Rock Auto.
Three bad alternators...this can happen. I'd be taking a closer look at the car to rule it out as source of problem

RXTbone

Thanks for the reply. I'm just going by the stock voltage meter, which rides slightly above 12 typically. RPMs - 7K. Again, it's not every time - though I don't rev the car that high, that often. But the failures always seem to come right after redlining the car. The voltage meter will fall below 12, and slowly decrease over a few miles - and will no longer produce voltage. Replace the alternator, and all is fine. Because I can drive for long periods with no issues, and I don't have a hacked up electrical system - I don't think there's anything in the electrical path to cause issues, though I understand the point of a good go through. I was just curious if this was an issue anyone else experienced with aftermarket alternators...

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

What "brand" remans are the alternators? I had the same experience once with an FC, I ended up switching back to OEM. High RPM's will continue to destroy the type you're getting, I'd exhange it and resell the new one to someone who wont push their car as hard. Obtain an OE alternator and take it to a local alternator/starter repair shop for a rebuild and tell them about the prior issues you were having.

RXTbone

The brand, ironically, is "Tough One" sold through Advance. Never considered having an OE alternator rebuilt - I'll check into that...

Banzai

iTrader: (13)

Rebuilding original alternators and starters used to be THE WAY it was done before we became a modern, throw away society. There used to be 3 or 4 automotive electrical shops in my area that specialized in this. Today, there is one small place left that most people don't even know exists. In some ways, progress sucks.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I just put an $8 set of brushes in my 1979 factory alternator. Very easy.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Yep, back in the day, I had my OEM SA alternator rebuilt by a little shop down the street. Much cheaper and better than the rebuilds they hand out today.

RXTbone

Great ideas - I appreciate it! I turned in my OE core the first go around, so the next time this is an issue, I'll be in the market for a used OE piece.

Doneuald

If you are going to continually buzz it to high RPM use a bigger pulley on your alternator to drop the RPM slightly and underdrive the alternator. ( race car stuff)