Ok i know the search **** are going to **** and moan about this but i have tryed everything.

Engine turns but will not start.

the engine sounds like it has good compression

The plugs all spark and the motor is TDC'ed

Deflooded it several times and no luck.

No coolant on the spark plugs, and no coolant in the oil.

every time it turns i hear a good lub sound like it wants to start but it wont.

i am at witts end with this engine and am looking for some help i keep thinking there is something that i missed.

The engine has a RB header and a EGR block off plate.
The fuel pump is working great and the carb is getting fuel.

Starting fluid does nothing for it and push starting it does nothing.

When i turn it over there is smoke comeing from the tail pipe thick grey but i smelt it and there is no sweet smell to it it smells just like burnt and unburnt fuel oil mix.

Please if you have any ideas let me know.

 

Is fuel getting through the carb? You said fuel is getting to it but if it's not going through it it's not gonna work. This was my delema this winter and a good can of carb cleaner cleared it up. I just sprayed it, let it sit, tried starting, sprayed some more, let sit, tried starting. Everytime it got further and further until it finally started.

 

What is the history of the car?
12A, 13B?
Is it all standard?
If it has compression, spark, and fuel but does not run either spark timing is out of wack or compression is lacking.

 

Forgot to add if it is tandard 12A pull the choke out and keep it out while cranking. If this dosn't cause a start and the plugs arn't wet then fuel is the problem.

 

12A Car ran when buddy picked it up but it sat for a wile.
I pulled the engine out and swapped it into my car.

The carb is stock and ran perfect one week ago till i lost an apex seal.
There is nothing that leads me to bealive that it has lo compression it spits really good all three times front and rear.

plugs get wet, and the gas is getting through the carb.

Like i siad i TDC'ed the engine

When the needle was matched to the crank pulley line, the distributer notch didnt match the arrow in the shaft????

But the flywheel and crank are both in line, you know the little flat spot on the flywheel and the needle and line match on the crank pulley

But when i timed it to the leading 2 it didnt light up on the line?

 

Maybe I can come by after the race tomorrow... Maybe we should try another carb too, since the last motor had starting trouble. Just a thought, and I've got a fairly fresh rebuilt Nikki sitting on the shelf right now.

 

My 7 sounded like she had compresion, but in reality, read less than 20psi

Enough to keep her running once it started, but not enought to start on her own.

Measure compresion with a piston tester, that will at least give you an idea.

Most of the time, when dealing with 7s, hard start issues are related to compresion. Sadly

 

ATF, try pouring atf down the carb, and try starting it..if its doing what your saying then it should start right up.its going to smoke like hell but at least it runs...good luck

:AA:

 

On the timing issue, was the bottom pulley off for a water pump swap?

You don't time it to leading 2, it goes to L1.
And when the yellow mark on the crank pulley is lined up with the pointer the Dist rotor should be pointing towards L1 on the cap.
If it sound like it wants to catch for a second at times there is a big possibility that the timing is way off.
Also alot of times after having a flooding issue you have to either hook up a jumper battery to the existing battery in the vehicle and deflood until there is no more indication of fuel coming out.
Sometimes I would take a piece of white paper and hold it on the outside of the plug holes and crank(I use a remote starter until there was no more spots on the paper.
That's why I use a jumper battery or cables hooked up from a running vehicle as to not drain your battery.
If the battery does not provide adequate cranking RPM it will not fire and flood.
Also I recommend if it has flooded many times to get a fresh set of plugs. They can get to the point even if you clean them they will no longer fire.

But I would recommend you verify 100% that the dist is in correctly.

 

You Said Something About The Distributor Not Lining Up I Bet That Your Timing Is Right On The Pully But The Distributor Or The Rotor Is Off Start With The Easy Things Make Sure That The Distributor, Rotor, Cap, And Wires Are All Where They Need To Be.

 

I got the car runing.
I timed it right but there was so much junk in the engine it was not letting it start.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Got a chance to drive the car today, and we managed to get a couple more bugs worked out on it in the parking lot of the icecream shop. Running pretty strong, and you guys would be really interested in the sound of his exhaust.