Alignment questions.
02-02-03, 12:45 AM
#1
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Alignment questions.
I am about to get my new tires put on and the car is in very serious need of an alignment. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to differentiations from the stock alignment that it would be good to request when I go to the shop. I intend to autocross the car extensively but also drive it on the street. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and suggestions.
Ben
Ben
02-02-03, 12:36 PM
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http://www4.tpgi.com.au/adsy01/s123.htm
from adys site at http://www4.tpgi.com.au/adsy01/ in the tech section
the sites a good read, i knew i had seen some specs before.....
from adys site at http://www4.tpgi.com.au/adsy01/ in the tech section
the sites a good read, i knew i had seen some specs before.....
02-02-03, 01:23 PM
#4
I read your email
First off, make sure all your steering components, tie-rods, ball-joints etc are in good shape and aren't worn. No sense messing with your alignment if you've got crappy parts.
For autocross you might want to dial in a little less caster than stock. 4 degrees is pretty close to the stock setting. It'll cause the steering to react a little quicker. On the other hand you might find it to be a little more "darty" at highway speed.
As far as camber goes you don't have much choice with the stock components, you can either go either 1 degree positive or 1 degree negative. Go for one degree negative. If you can pony up the bucks you could get adjustable camber/caster plates but that's a whole different ball game.
Start off with 1/8" toe-in.
Basically, if you have stock suspension parts dial it in with the mfr numbers to start then work from there.
For autocross you might want to dial in a little less caster than stock. 4 degrees is pretty close to the stock setting. It'll cause the steering to react a little quicker. On the other hand you might find it to be a little more "darty" at highway speed.
As far as camber goes you don't have much choice with the stock components, you can either go either 1 degree positive or 1 degree negative. Go for one degree negative. If you can pony up the bucks you could get adjustable camber/caster plates but that's a whole different ball game.
Start off with 1/8" toe-in.
Basically, if you have stock suspension parts dial it in with the mfr numbers to start then work from there.
02-02-03, 01:50 PM
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Thanks for the advice, have RB springs and Tokiko blues. But I will take that under advisement when I go to the alignment shop.
Ben
Ben
Originally posted by inittab
First off, make sure all your steering components, tie-rods, ball-joints etc are in good shape and aren't worn. No sense messing with your alignment if you've got crappy parts.
For autocross you might want to dial in a little less caster than stock. 4 degrees is pretty close to the stock setting. It'll cause the steering to react a little quicker. On the other hand you might find it to be a little more "darty" at highway speed.
As far as camber goes you don't have much choice with the stock components, you can either go either 1 degree positive or 1 degree negative. Go for one degree negative. If you can pony up the bucks you could get adjustable camber/caster plates but that's a whole different ball game.
Start off with 1/8" toe-in.
Basically, if you have stock suspension parts dial it in with the mfr numbers to start then work from there.
First off, make sure all your steering components, tie-rods, ball-joints etc are in good shape and aren't worn. No sense messing with your alignment if you've got crappy parts.
For autocross you might want to dial in a little less caster than stock. 4 degrees is pretty close to the stock setting. It'll cause the steering to react a little quicker. On the other hand you might find it to be a little more "darty" at highway speed.
As far as camber goes you don't have much choice with the stock components, you can either go either 1 degree positive or 1 degree negative. Go for one degree negative. If you can pony up the bucks you could get adjustable camber/caster plates but that's a whole different ball game.
Start off with 1/8" toe-in.
Basically, if you have stock suspension parts dial it in with the mfr numbers to start then work from there.
02-03-03, 10:40 AM
#6
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asdf
Toe: 0*
Camber: the strut tops are not symetrical - turn them so the little triangles (visible on the black rubber on the top) are pointing back and center. This should give the best camber and caster settings.
Caster: you can dial in a little with the tension rods, but not much. I leave mine pretty close to stock.
Camber: the strut tops are not symetrical - turn them so the little triangles (visible on the black rubber on the top) are pointing back and center. This should give the best camber and caster settings.
Caster: you can dial in a little with the tension rods, but not much. I leave mine pretty close to stock.
02-03-03, 10:53 AM
#7
I read your email
Re: asdf
Originally posted by Crack Monkey
Caster: you can dial in a little with the tension rods, but not much. I leave mine pretty close to stock.
Caster: you can dial in a little with the tension rods, but not much. I leave mine pretty close to stock.
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02-03-03, 01:34 PM
#8
Originally posted by inittab
First off, make sure all your steering components, tie-rods, ball-joints etc are in good shape and aren't worn. No sense messing with your alignment if you've got crappy parts.
For autocross you might want to dial in a little less caster than stock. 4 degrees is pretty close to the stock setting. It'll cause the steering to react a little quicker. On the other hand you might find it to be a little more "darty" at highway speed.
As far as camber goes you don't have much choice with the stock components, you can either go either 1 degree positive or 1 degree negative. Go for one degree negative. If you can pony up the bucks you could get adjustable camber/caster plates but that's a whole different ball game.
Start off with 1/8" toe-in.
Basically, if you have stock suspension parts dial it in with the mfr numbers to start then work from there.
First off, make sure all your steering components, tie-rods, ball-joints etc are in good shape and aren't worn. No sense messing with your alignment if you've got crappy parts.
For autocross you might want to dial in a little less caster than stock. 4 degrees is pretty close to the stock setting. It'll cause the steering to react a little quicker. On the other hand you might find it to be a little more "darty" at highway speed.
As far as camber goes you don't have much choice with the stock components, you can either go either 1 degree positive or 1 degree negative. Go for one degree negative. If you can pony up the bucks you could get adjustable camber/caster plates but that's a whole different ball game.
Start off with 1/8" toe-in.
Basically, if you have stock suspension parts dial it in with the mfr numbers to start then work from there.
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