i recently purchased aftermarket gauges oil temp, oil pressure, water temp from- rx7 club member stevan - and ive done some reading on using the stock oil pressure sending unit and modifiy that for the aftermark sending unit. i dont use the stock oil pressure sending unit because mine is a 79 car with an 82 engine in it, ive read about modifiy the stock sender but there is no clear guide on how its done. so now i could use some help with this one like always of course
thanks
kyle

 

I would get an oil pedistal that can handle an afetrmarker oil pressure sending unit. RESpeed makes a complete oil pedistal. That's what I have. This way you can keep the stock gauge hooked up and also have an aftermarket one. It will also allow you to run an oil temp gauge if you want.

 

yea but i dont use the stock oil pressure gauge because mine is a 79 with an 82 engine, i read on this site of making some sort of "T" connector for running the oil pressure gauge alongside the stock one

but there are no guides as far as i can see on how to do it

thats what i need though, i need someone who has done this before who could explain what to do

 

I believe what you want is a metric adapter set for the water temp and oil pressure, to plug the oil pressure line or sender strait into the back iron where the stock sender is and water temp to the back of the water pump, however to use the oil temp you may have to get a pedestal with the threaded port for a temp probe/sender. Re-speed has a full pedestal as KansasCityREPU said Racing beat also carries a pedestal adapter as well. A quick inquiry though, are your new gauges electric or mechanical?

 

they are mechanical gauges, i heard from rx7 member stevan who i bought these from, he said you can mount these right in a stock hole or something in the oil pan

 

To use the oil pan for temp you either drill and tap a hole or I think you can take out the oil level sender for the pressure it's one of 3 options, the stock sending unit port (you'll need an adapter) one of the filter pedestals listed, or to drill and tap the rear banjo bolt on the bee-hive or rear banjo bolt bottom of the rear iron for a fmoc application, as for the temp sender back of the water pump housing with and adapter fitting is the best least invasive way, you do lose the auto choke however.

 

how do you do like a T connector for the oil pressure also using the stock sender unit or just take the stock sender unit out and make up some type of adapter for the aftermarket sender

 

I would not go the T route but you could just replace the factory one with ther after-market one.

With T
1. Determine the size of the rear iron factory location.
2. Purchase a T fitting that fits the rear iron
3. Dertermine the size of the after-market sending unit.
4. Purchase the correct male-female adapter
5. Determine the size of the factory sending unit.
6. Purchase the correct male-female adapters

Without T
1. Dertermine the size of the after-market sending unit.
2. Determine the size of the rear iron factory location.
3. If they are different, purchase an adapter to make the sizes correct.

As you can see, all this adds up to a lot of work because the correct sizes can be hard to find. The fittings also need to be brass.

In the end it's just easier to go the pedistal route plus if you ever want to add oil temp there is an extra connection in the pedistal.

 

yea i probably will just remove the stock oil pressure sending unit and come up with the fitting for the aftermarket one, and i have an oil temp was going to run that of the oil level sending unit in the oil pan, then the water temp im not sure on

 

After reading you sig and realizing you have an SA not an fb and therefore no factory oil pressure gauge, take out the stock sender and just buy a metric adapter set (temp probe one cost me like $5 from sunpro) as for oil temp, a pedestal is still the easiest option, or drill and tap the oil pan. Just for good measure here was my set-up with stock sender for oil press and re-speed filter pedestal: