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@GSLSEforme - If I'm reading your statement right, you're recommending OEM motor mounts and Mazda competition transmission mount, correct?
This is the combination I ended up with and am pleased with it. I get a little more transmission noise in the cabin but it's not noticeable once you're moving and the clutch is much less rubber-band.
Ah, I'm still such a noob. What is a torque brake?
Torque brace is what RX7fb spirit r meant to say. You can cut him some slack with spelling,he's German and has to translate all his responses to English to post them here,does very well really. I know,my girl is German,she taught herself English but has difficulties occasionally with our language. There are some words in English for which there are no words in German.
RX7fb spirit r,his name is Thomas is pretty smart and has studied and experimented with rotary engines and has a pretty stout 12A in a really mean looking 1st gen with lots of goodies on it. Maybe he'll post some pics of it here???
A torque brace attaches to rear of engine which in turn is connected to a threaded shaft that has bushings and washers( think shock mount or swaybar link) and a pair of locking nuts to adjust and hold tension on shaft and bushings. Other end of shaft attaches thru inner fenderwell in a place where several panels are welded together for solid attachment point. These pieces work together to limit engine movement under load,the amount of movement can be fine tuned by adjustment of bushings/locknuts. Accomplishes same thing as solid motor mounts without the noise/vibration.
These are not a necessity,I personally like the way it tightens up the way the car launches,shifts and drives.
Other 1st gens I've owned with street/strip clutches would have a judder or shudder on engagement which was tamed a lot by the brace. Never had a sectional or puck clutch in any of my cars but think it would help drivability considerably.
I can post pics of installed brace tomorrow when I get home.
@GSLSEforme - I'd like to see pics of that setup.
I've seen pictures of RX7fb Spirit R's car. It is, to me, one of the most beautiful first gens out there. (Way out there, from here)
@GSLSEforme - I'd like to see pics of that setup.
I've seen pictures of RX7fb Spirit R's car. It is, to me, one of the most beautiful first gens out there. (Way out there, from here)
Rare place inside the verna park
[QUOTE = GSLSEforme; 12282571]
Hallo Thomas !!! Lange Zeit, seit ich dich gesehen habe, wie geht es dir in deinem Teil der Welt?
[/ QUOTE]
Ich war heute auf Deutschlands größtem Oldtimertreffen und gerade zurück. Irgendein Problem mit dem Rassel-Diff aber sehr glücklich, dass die jüngere Generation sich mehr und mehr für Rotary interessiert. Hier ein paar Bilder von gestern, hoffentlich ist es ok.
Außerhalb des Verna Parks
Last edited by Rx7fb spirit r; Jun 25, 2018 at 12:13 AM.
I recognize those puzzled looks by the people looking at the engine bay. Happens to my car as well when I'm at a show and open the hood. It must universal!
I reinstalled the old mounts. The RA ones raised the engine about 1/2 " at the front which caused my header/exhaust and the tranny fork to hit the chassis when reversing. Very annoying.
Live and learn, I hope others see this and think twice about these from RA. Always been a fan but for our cars they seem to be dropping the ball.
So I replaced my weird, gigantic after market RA mounts with the original ones. They were still in good shape. The engine sits properly now.
Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
Oh and I will have to trim the drivers side mounts bell to clear the oil pan. Did a test fit last night and it was no go until I trim with a cutoff tool.
And even for testing these, tg, you were spot on to avoid the oil pan seam. Here's a picture of the driver's side RA mount and how close it was. The guy who installed the RA ones ground away the cup, but it was still super close. No apparent damage.
I used the jack and 2x4 to support the engine under the oil pan as you suggested, but FWIW I didn't raise the engine much (like 1/2" to take off the pressure) and removed the 4 bolts that mount the engine to the mount carrier/bracket. Took that bracket out, swapped the mounts onto the bracket, reinstalled it tight to engine, then settled the engine back onto the mounts/frame. Then did a final tightening for the mounts.
^^^maybe that's how everyone does it. Anyway, great thread! Thanks everyone. I've learned so much here and in working on this car.
So, I replaced the engine mounts this weekend with an OEM set from Atkins. What a difference! Wish I'd done this a long time ago! (I will say that lifting the engine by the oil pan made me nervous!)
Next up - the transmission mount. Are there any gotchas to be on the lookout for?
Don't go crazy with tightening bolts that hold mount to tailshaft of transmission. Its aluminum,these bolts don't have to be killer tight. Weight of trans sits on mount,side/twisting loads is what bolts contend with. Seen my share of stripped/pulled threads on these. Can be repaired with heli coil insert,not a big deal. Torque to 16-18 ft lbs.
Last edited by GSLSEforme; Aug 15, 2018 at 09:47 AM.
On to the transmission mounts ... today, I put the front of the car on ramps and crawled under. Loosened the nuts on the bottom of the transmission mount and lifted it with a jack. My question .... my car is all stock, including the stock exhaust and associated heat shields. How do I remove the bolt holding the passenger side of the cross member? Or is there a way to do without removing the cross member? (I'm sorry for hijacking this thread, but it seemed an okay place to ask the question...)
Someone might know better here, but in my limited experience, the transmission sits snug up into the tunnel and I am not sure you can cheat it up enough to clear the studs on the mount and remove it. And it looks like a real pain to get to that other bolt into the base of the transmission case without dropping the exhaust. But maybe if you loosen the driver's side crossmember mounting bolt and jack up the tranny a bit, you could get the studs past?
In my case, I had dropped the exhaust and then could remove the crossmember to get at the trans mount.
