You could be right. I've tried competitions on both sides as well as hockey pucks and they work fine being the same.

This one time I tried only one competition on the side that gets compressed during acceleration and it was not very good, according to the owner of the car. He sprung for a second comp mount and it improved everything.

 

Another relevant observation - I put the new mazda mounts in last night, and when removing what very well may have been the original mounts, the right side one had a white paint mark on it in the same spot! The one from the left didn't, and they were otherwise visually identical (one was a little more squished than the other). That must be what the different part number means - it has a white/silver mark on it

 

Hockey pucks and a couple steel plates. There's a writeup on it somewhere in these forums. I've had them for years and they've treated me pretty well.

 

is it possible that one side isn't concentric? the FC mounts are actually offset slightly, and if you look at pictures of FC engines, you'll see people get the mounts in wrong (paint mark goes up), and the engines point all over the place

 

I've noticed sometimes the studs aren't along the same plane. I just figured it was a manufacturing defect that's so minor you could ignore it. Or maybe I saw this on old mounts that have shifted over time and use.

 

Got the DEA/MRC mounts from RA today. They measure 4.5 in diameter and ~1.5 in in height. So same as the other RA mounts. I will post up once they are installed, could be a week out from now.

 

That may be a good point! I did notice one of the ones I took out one wasn't quite centered, figured it was due to age; didn't put it together at the time but one of the new ones was also slightly off-center - figured it was a case of large tolerances for such a big/simple part. Just now put the two together - that could be an intentional offset!

Though, if it is the difference, why would it not fit an automatic -SE? Still seems a bit odd (and I'd imagine the competition mounts are all concentric?)

 

the FC mounts aren't concentric, new, just by a little bit.

i always was under the impression that the Automatic mount was taller, but i've never ordered one to find out.

 

SITREP... The motor mounts don't work on the driver's side without "encouragement". I imagine I could grind down the skirt to get it to clear the oil pan/front cover, but I opted to use my old left mount for the time being.

 

Yeah, I'm about to put them in and it will be close. If its too close, I'll do the same and trim it a bit. Even it touches it shouldn't be a big issue since its the fixed part of the mount that is attached engine itself, so no chance for much movement to cause an issue. It looks like it will raise the front of the engine 1/4 inch or so which may cause my strut bar to hit the pulley on my alternator but I can fix that by moving the strut bar or slightly smaller belts.

I'll post up some pics when I get it done. Should be soon.

 

Yeah, clearance is another thing. I don't have my hood on at the moment. but I am looking at my carb hat and I don't think I'm gonna make it under the hood.

 

So, just to add some notes here. I'll post up pics later. Beside the size issues mentioned, I found 2 more fitment issues in my case.

1. The rubber molded around the mount needed to be trimmed to reuse the lower cup from the original mounts. I don't know the exact name for this part but its the cup thats inverted and resides under the bell of the mount. It has striated rubber around its outer edge. Anyway, I couldn't mate it to the new mounts because of the extra rubber flashing around the bottom edge of the new mount. So trimmed it with an razor and all was good, except it wasn't.

2. This same lower cup would not seat flat to the new mount after trimming the rubber. Seems the bolt from the new mount has a slight shoulder on it, so I can to ream out the lower cups hole to make it slide all the way so it seated flat to the new mount.

I imagine the lower cup is a safety device for when the rubber fails. It will still hold the motor mount in place due to the bell surrounding it with the weight of the engine on it. Probably could do without it but figured the mazda engineers had a reason for using them.

Oh and I will have to trim the drivers side mounts bell to clear the oil pan. Did a test fit last night and it was no go until I trim with a cutoff tool.

 

Hey guysI've found a couple alternatives I thought i might share, There are a toyota landcruiser mount and a land rover mount that are both about 36mm thick and 76mm diameter. The toyota one has a captive nut on one end and a male thread on the other, both m12x1.25 the LandRover one has a 3/8 UNF male thread both ends.

 

Any links?

BTW, got mine all installed and the engine sits about 3/8 higher at the front. I have to swap in shorter belts to pull the alternator down a bit. Did trim the drives side bell some to get this in. Pics coming soon.

 

Heres pictures documenting what I did.

Size comparisons of the new (right) and the old (left)



With the rubber flashing remove from the botttom of the mount and the hole on the bottom cap reamed to fit over the shoulder on the lower mount stud.


1st attempt to get the mount to fit the drivers side.

Second cut to get it to fit.

 

No links but they look like this. Toyota on the left, Land Rover on the right. I lied about the diameter, they are both a touch over 2.5" and about 36mm tall. The toyota one is about 1mm taller again, plus another 5mm for the captive nut.
Was under the car contemplating putting them in yesterday - i currently have polyurethane "hockey puck style" mounts on both the engine and gearbox.

 

Well you guys can have my mounts... I'm just gonna throw them in the trash. My carb hat doesn't clear the hood I confirmed it. When my old ones fail I'll just put some hockey pucks in it; done it before and it works well.

 

I don't blame ya, I had to get shorter belts to move my alternator down a bit. Had 31 in. belts and wanted 30 in. Of course no local stores had 2 much less one, so I ordered them on Amazon and will have them saturday. I still have my original mounts, the passenger side one is starting to separate from the bell, so they needed changing.

Nice find ****. Thanks.

Hopefully this thread will help others that get the RA mounts from now on. I'm tempted to point the RA folks at it to see the issue as well. Not sure they will do anything but its worth the shot.

 

TG, those motor mounts look very odd. I'd think twice before using them, but I'm glad you got 'em in after some choice "edits".

 

TG - Those DEA mounts just like the WESTAR EM8055 ones I bought recently.

I looked back through my Rock Auto purchase history and the DEA ones I bought back in 2015 looked like factory ones. I didn't have any issues and used the factory lower cup. Now I'm scared to even buy the DEA ones.

 

Other than the dimension weirdness they seem ok. I'm keeping the old ones in case it caused problems. The driver side had started to separate from the bell but otherwise they were in good shape.

Well, at least RA has a very easy return system setup. You can easily return em if they aren't what you expected.

 

This is great information - like t_g_farrell said, hopefully this will help people out going forward (which was the hope when I first posted - learn from others' mistakes! for more chance to learn from my getting-screwed, see my brake drum post ) - when I returned my westar mounts I mentioned that I had more information available (rockauto limits you to about 100 characters for "why" when returning something) but never heard back.

 

I think all the different vendor mounts RA carries have been looked at in this thread and they all are the same larger and taller ones. <sigh>

 

Mines an FB, but the ones I got from Mazdatrix fit perfectly, looks sorta like Tim's. engine sits at the original level, maybe 1/8 inch higher.

 

Hey guys, since you all have your mounts and your tape measure out, can someone please give me a measurement of the complete mount assembly, ie from crossmember to mounting bar?