Adjusting clutch?
11-16-09, 10:13 PM
#1
Adjusting clutch?
Is there an adjustment for the clutch because my engage point is really far up and i think my BRAND NEW clutch is slipping. If im not on it feels like it missing while going. If you get what im saying.
Any help is appreciated. I just got done with my auto swap.
Any help is appreciated. I just got done with my auto swap.
11-16-09, 11:27 PM
#4
Jolly Green Giant
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You cant change the engagement point persay only the pedal height. I know with the GSL-SE's they have what feels like an extremely long pedal to make it easier on drivers but for some like me who are vertically inclined [6'6"] it becomes a hastle.
How many miles have you put on the clutch so far? As with all friction based things like brake pads and shoes they require a slight brake in period or a good burnish to get the top layer of the clutch or brake pad off and allow the flywheel/rotor and clutch/pad to wear match.
When you release the pedal and it comes back any remaining pressure in the line is releaved back into the resivoir so the pressure plate will force the fork back and thus pushing the slave back fully engaging the clutch. There is the possible off chance that the vent port in the master cylinder is blocked as this can happen with brake masters and what it does is continually build pressure as you pump the pedal because it cannot relieve back into the resivoir, easy way to check to make sure your getting a full engagment/disengagment on the hydraulics end is to have someone press and hold the clutch in for a moment then let out and make sure it fully retracts and have it done a couple of times to make sure its moving back to the same space each time.
Hope that helps
How many miles have you put on the clutch so far? As with all friction based things like brake pads and shoes they require a slight brake in period or a good burnish to get the top layer of the clutch or brake pad off and allow the flywheel/rotor and clutch/pad to wear match.
When you release the pedal and it comes back any remaining pressure in the line is releaved back into the resivoir so the pressure plate will force the fork back and thus pushing the slave back fully engaging the clutch. There is the possible off chance that the vent port in the master cylinder is blocked as this can happen with brake masters and what it does is continually build pressure as you pump the pedal because it cannot relieve back into the resivoir, easy way to check to make sure your getting a full engagment/disengagment on the hydraulics end is to have someone press and hold the clutch in for a moment then let out and make sure it fully retracts and have it done a couple of times to make sure its moving back to the same space each time.
Hope that helps
11-16-09, 11:30 PM
#5
As he said, there is a push-rod attached to the clutch pedal. loosen the 12mm nut and then use a 10mm to adjust it. clock-wise will make the rod longer. that what you want to do first.
also, how many lbs is the pressure plate. if its 3K lbs or more, you will have issues without modifying the slave cylinder's push-rod.
also, how many lbs is the pressure plate. if its 3K lbs or more, you will have issues without modifying the slave cylinder's push-rod.
11-16-09, 11:33 PM
#6
the setup is exedy oem clutch and racing beat steel flywheel. Like i said if you really get on it(full throttle) it dosent feel like it slips then. Ill have to play with it tomorrow. i just dont think the pressure plate is exerting full force. What could cause that. The pressure plate botls are at 27lb with lock washers and all hardware is new
Last edited by Crazyk82; 11-16-09 at 11:35 PM.
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11-17-09, 11:03 AM
#8
Idk what the clamping force is. Cant find any information about it. Its exedy part number 07020. Its just an OEM replacement. Could it be its not GRIPPY(sp) enough for the lightweight flywheel. It seems like the drivetrain is what makes it slip on part throttle and deceleration. especially low speed turns also.
11-17-09, 01:10 PM
#10
It needs 200 or 300 miles of easy driving and EASY starts. Maybe more if you have good discipline. It's an OEM unit so it requires break in time.
Adjust your master rod until it feels good to you (engages somewhere in the middle) and drive it easy for a while.
Oh and RB recommends only 14 foot lbs on the pressure plate bolts and 28 foot lbs on the thick flywheel to counterweight bolts.
I have a used RB light steel flywheel that may have been overtightened by the previous owner. When went to install it recently I just couldn't get the pressure plate bolts tight so I went beyond recommended torque ratings. It stretched the bolts and pulled the threads up out of the flywheel a little. I almost couldn't get them out. Someone somewhere over tightened these which weakened the surounding metal so by the time I got to it, it just didn't get tight until I forced it. Then the damage was done. I've never had this happen on any other flywheel so I shouldn't blame myself. It was an abused flywheel that had severe wear caused by a puck clutch and other signs of damage.
My solution was to drill out the damaged threads until I got to good threads. Then use a second set of stock shoulder bolts from a spare set of pressure plate bolts I had lying around. Worked perfectly and torqued down as expected. Unfortunately the two remaining original threaded holes began to show the same signs as I torque them down. Oh noes! Oh well it's just got an OEM pressure plate so the clampoing pressure is low enough that I won't worry about it. Next time I have it out I'll fix these last two holes. Good thing RB threads these holes all the way through.
Adjust your master rod until it feels good to you (engages somewhere in the middle) and drive it easy for a while.
Oh and RB recommends only 14 foot lbs on the pressure plate bolts and 28 foot lbs on the thick flywheel to counterweight bolts.
I have a used RB light steel flywheel that may have been overtightened by the previous owner. When went to install it recently I just couldn't get the pressure plate bolts tight so I went beyond recommended torque ratings. It stretched the bolts and pulled the threads up out of the flywheel a little. I almost couldn't get them out. Someone somewhere over tightened these which weakened the surounding metal so by the time I got to it, it just didn't get tight until I forced it. Then the damage was done. I've never had this happen on any other flywheel so I shouldn't blame myself. It was an abused flywheel that had severe wear caused by a puck clutch and other signs of damage.
My solution was to drill out the damaged threads until I got to good threads. Then use a second set of stock shoulder bolts from a spare set of pressure plate bolts I had lying around. Worked perfectly and torqued down as expected. Unfortunately the two remaining original threaded holes began to show the same signs as I torque them down. Oh noes! Oh well it's just got an OEM pressure plate so the clampoing pressure is low enough that I won't worry about it.
Next time I have it out I'll fix these last two holes. Good thing RB threads these holes all the way through.
11-18-09, 03:05 AM
#13
I think i found the problem just dont know how to fix it :/ or what is even causing that problem. When you have it in neutral(or with clutch disengaged) the engine seems to vibrate(had the same problem with auto in) around 2500 which is where the worst "slipage" is. and it dosent vibrate above 3000 that ive noticed which would explain why it dosent seem to slip at high rs or hard acceleration. So my question now is what would make the engine "vibrate". Its hard to explain unless your sitting in the car but basically the whole car vibrates and its the worst right at 2500 rpm
ps rod is installed right. might take off to check if its seated right. doubt it isnt but its worth a check before i try anything more serious.
ps rod is installed right. might take off to check if its seated right. doubt it isnt but its worth a check before i try anything more serious.
11-18-09, 07:26 PM
#16
Motor mounts were fine. It has gone away and all we did was adjust the idle and reconnect a vacuum module. Couldnt tell you which one but it has a large hose that goes to the carb. It only seems to "slip" on deceleration(letting off the throttle no brakes).Only 2 other problems are the timing is 180* off. you can see either leading or trailing marks but if you put the probe on rotor 2 the marks are dead on. Im lost on that. And the "check" relay clicks randomly. Might have to do with the 105 amp alt i have installed. If you got any ideas please let me know.
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