tiexgrr

As per Rx7-Doctors Post I'm following the rules here so please bear with me.

1.) The car is a 1985 Rx7 GS with a 12a, 5 speed trans NO mods at all.

2.) I do Not have the haynes Manual, however I do have all the manuals downloaded in PDF format as per the link Rx7-Doctor provides in his sig. So I have a pretty full coverage there.

3.) I HAVE been working on the car, but its been mainly interior work (ie, floor being patched carpets/interior removed. The only Engine component thats been Removed has been the Emissions control ECU, but thats was plugged in as soon as I got rid of the rust near it, and the car started and ran fine after that point

4.) I havent had any experience with it being cold, and it won't start so I dont know if it has any running related issues...

5.)it will NOT crank at all, the battery is at 12volts, and I've confirmed that with a Voltmeter and it reads 11.9V on the battery, even when the key is in the "Start" position.(I even checked the ignition switch to see if it was showing voltage and it is) There is however a Click from the large relay by the clutch Master Cylinder? According to my wiring Diagrams its the "choke&Check" Relay beside the Hot Start relay. As for the starter I havent been able to get to is as my car is parked oddly on my lawn and it has a hump in the ground that gives me Aprox 1 inch of clearence to work with.... Also it has a Bee-hive Oil cooler still so I cant get to it from the top.

Now the problem is basically as follows. About a month ago my old battery went flat, and after recharging it I tried for hours to get the car to start (with breaks in between to recharge/check connections etc) the last time I tried to start it it sounded like the battery died completely, however my gauge clusters warning lights all lit up when the car was in the on/start position.

is it possible that I accidently burned my starter out? Or is it more likely that the solinoid is shot? I've checked all the fuses inside the car and tried skimming over my Techincal, Electrical and Trouble shooting PDF's to no-avail.

The only Obvious issue is my Positive Battery Terminal connector has mysteriously snapped but its still tight on the terminal and I've even tried vice grips to make it tighter but the car just won't crank.

I'm very sorry if I've left ANYTHING out, if I have please feel free to ask and I will do my best to answer.

Thank you in advance!

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

First thing you need to do is have the battery tested or if you have a known good battery out of another vehicle that will fit and hook up then put it in and see if it cranks.

The battery can register 12 volts but when you go to crank it will drop below 10.2 or so because it is either discharged or has a dead cell. Remember that the starter needs approx 90-110 amps to crank and the voltage cannot go below 10.2 volts.

If after checking that it will not crank then replace that bad cable. The cable needs to be in great shape in order to get that amperage and voltage to the starter. If it does not get that it will not crank. Also make sure that the cables are clean and the battery posts are clean plus the ground is good.

Last step if you have repaired the 1st 2 is to take the starter out and have it tested.


This all basic things that need to be in working condition for the engine to crank.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

When you turn to 'START', do you hear a click? Does the voltage on the meter drop? Do the warning lights dim? If none of these, it might be that the trigger wore on the solenoid just came off so the starter is not getting a signal to crank.

If it sounds like the starter is trying to turn the engine over, then follow the things that Doc listed above.

tiexgrr

While I had the voltmeter attached to the battery, I checked it in both the off and start positions, the voltage never dropped bellow 11.7v. However I will see if I can steal the battery out of our van for an hour or so if I have to.

Also, like you said my next step will be replacing that bad cable for sure. This car likes tho toss odd ***** at me all the time it seems.

P.s. That wiper motor you sold me still works like a charm though!

The only "click" to be heard is from the choke&Check relay, and it isn't there when its unplugged (checked to be sure)

The voltage in the in car meter doesn't drop nor does the external meter. and the warning lights dont dim either...


Also.

Just to clearify, I used a handheld External voltmeter to do the readings, I dont trust the built in to be accurate.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Okay. You need to get under the car and check that the trigger wire is on the solenoid (it sounds like it isn't). If it is connected, remove it and stick your multimeter on there. Turn the key to 'START' and see if you get 12v there. If so, then it may be a dead solenoid. If not, I suspect the ignition switch.

tiexgrr

I can't get under the car atm, its parked on my lawn which has a weird hump that gives literally 1inch max of clearence, I'm going to have to push it out onto the road to jack it up....

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

You dont need to do that yet. do what i said in that order first please.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

good luck with the diagnosis. hope u get it figured out. u really should invest in a good floor jack and jack stands. i don't have jack stands so i use car ramps under the front wheels and 8" cement blocks under the rear wheels when i pulled the trans to replace the pilot bearing. good luck.

tiexgrr

I will for sure I'm hoping its one of the 2 things you said

I own both a 2 ton jack and several jackstands plus ramps. However, as I stated before the car is in an awkward spot on my lawn and I wont even attempt to jack a car up on a non solid surface. First things first though, getting a known good battery, and replacing the positive cable on the car if its not those, i'll deal with the starter when it goes to the shop.

tiexgrr

So I finally got a chance to work on the car again (after having to move it forward as it will be going in for floor repairs very soon) I managed to get a look under the car at the starter. All wires are connected. I'll also be picking up the Terminal connectors I need hopefully friday but I have some bills to pay so the car is on the back burner still.

I'll keep you all posted.

P.s. Rx7 Doc, I will be following everything in your order #1 Replace bad cable #2Use new/Known GOOD battery and #3 take the starter to get tested if 1&2 don't solve the problem.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Sounds good. Go ahead and replace both cables.

tiexgrr

Alright, I've now replaced both cables, checked all fuses etc and tested the starter(s) that I have. Both work well.

Im am still however not getting voltage to the solinoid? What are the odds of it being an ignition switch? I've priced it out at $150ish new so I dont want to jump into that one with out knowing for sure...

wecycle

Try a jumper from the solenoid terminal to the positive battery terminal.
If it cranks, the issue is in the switch or wiring.

tiexgrr

I've already checked all the wiring, and its not the issue. The grounds are all good, and the positive cable goes directly to the starter already. The fuseable link is fine, all fuses are as well the only thing I haven't checked is the switch. Also the starters are good. The car gets power to everything but the starter which in my experience is a classic sign of the switch failing. The only differenece is the $250 price tag on this one.

If its the switch I'm going to bypass it and go to a 3 position toggle switch (off/accesory/on) and a swith that will allow it to be started way cheaper and not overly complicated. Also for securitys sake likely a fuel pump cut off hidden somewhere.

wecycle

Does the key switch energize the panel and coils?
If so all you would need is a push button "momentary contact" switch and possibly a relay to energize the starter while keeping the key for security.

Have you tried contact cleaner in the column key switch?

tiexgrr

The coils work, and the panel lights up I may just hunt down an s2k startbutton and put it where the cig lighter is now as I dont smoke.

branemaniac

Ok, I found this thread through a search and it seems as though I have a similar problem. In my '81 RX7 GSL, I have found that the sucker will start up with choke then sound like it wants to die. Then I can drive it around, and turn it off where I want to go...and it will be dead. The panel wont energize, no sounds in engine / fp, no lights, no power. Then I will be pissed off, run and do something else, come back to it and it will have enough power sometimes for it to start up again. Does this sound like the trigger wires on the solenoid?

85_whiterx7

I know this thread is dead I hope you’re still around. I’m having the same click issue, my voltage drops and warning lights dim. should I try starting with a different battery?

Rx7bgs366

Try to push start the car

85_whiterx7

it worked the 3 times i needed it to

rmauser

Hi all,
I'm having the same problem with my '85 GSL-SE. I found one solution on the Gen3 page.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ved~~~-642253/
which exactly described my starting problem. But after I cleaned the starter switch contact rings (not to a bright shiny copper color but....) I still have the same problem. I can hear and feel the gas pump and the two relay switches (plastic cylinders mounted on the sidewall of the engine compartment) engage every time.
Sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't. I've tried putting it in neutral, in 1st gear, with and without the clutch pressed in, and sometimes it starts, sometimes not, regardless of if in gear or in neutral / whether the clutch is pressed or not. < which doesn't seem right to me!
I pulled the clutch switch and disassembled it to see if that was corroded (tough to get to it, unless you're a young hobbit :-) but it was in reasonable condition.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...switch-840474/
My questions are:
1) are there any other switches that control the engagement of the starter? (assuming the solenoid switch is good)
2) should I give another try at cleaning the ignition switch?
3) Is there a way to jumper the ignition switch to see if that is the problem?
4) Should I just buy a new switch for $50? https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/8...54-66-151.html
5) or could the problem be in the other main part of the switch, not the plastic switch on the end of it?