Murrayyy

i just bought an 83 gsl with 186xxx miles on it runs fine. idles perfect drives smooth. but last night i was on my way to moorhead and the road was set at 50mph the car went up to 40 in 3rd just fine but when i put it in 4th and started to speed up to 50 it started bogging and sputtering really bad and last night i had a friend drive it cuz he didnt believe me and it started doing it in 3rd now to. right around 4 to 5000 rpm. can someone please help me this is my daily and work car until summer. its for deliveries. gotta love Quiznos!!!!!!!!!!!

SteveNC

check the fuel filter; they are really cheap and very easy to replace. I've had two 83's and both eventually had that problem.

Murrayyy

did they do that bogging problem? my friend said i might need to rebuild the carb. and there is a hole in in the reactor or header. i can hear it but dont know where its coming from yet. im replacing the filter next check thank you for the help!! i really appreciate it. this car is mint only one rust spot full interior i dont want it to die on me already.

can i get a forum guy on here too helping me please?

Kentetsu

Driving agressively, taking it to the redline at each shift:

1st gear to redline = no problem
2nd gear to redline = no problem
3rd gear, never makes it to redline because it starts sputtering and losing power. This is because you've used up all the gas in the fuel filter and the float bowls, and it can't be replaced faster than you're using it due to the constricted filter.

Replace the filter and you'll be in good shape again. This should be done anually, at least.




.

SteveNC

yes, my first '83 did it after 129k miles, exactly the way Kentetsu describes. That one was driven in upstate NY winters and I didn't take very good care of it other than regular oil changes. the car rusted out by time I moved to NC and was not fixable. My "new" '83 had a partially clogged fuel filter when I bought it at 85k miles. It was so bad that the car wouldn't go over 4500 RPM without starting to bog down. I could actually run it in the driveway at 4500 and after a few seconds it would start to cut out.

Murrayyy

omg thank you guys so much you both just saved me ALOT of money. another question before were done here haha do any of you know about switching the leading or trailing wires or something like that? to help it run better? my friend with a jdm TII swap said there is a way to get it to run smoother by eliminating the L or T. he didnt know which. is there a writeup on here? im always looking for ways for my car to run better

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

you do not eliminate the Leading :P

do a bit of research and decide on the best set up for your application, there are people using MSD boxes, two coils, 2nd gen coils, ford pick up coils, they all have some weird prefixes like 2gcdfis* or something along those lines . take your time, research your best and most affordable option and go from there.

any of those are better than stock and will give you a bit more power and economy too

Murrayyy

thanks! i have about 300 to work with right now but im doing exhaust 3inch no cat all the way off the stock header back till i can afford the RB header. let her breathe a lil more. power im not so much worried about at this point its making it from point a to b fine lol. im going to be dedicating my life to rotarys. after my FC i told myself id never go with anything but!

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Besides the obvious exhaust/intake improvements, the ignition is a great place
to pick up performance and more reliability. The wasted spark means that the
rotor will see 2 sparks per combustion event. This is done by firing the two
leading plugs simultaneously, hence the Dual Fire moniker. In a lot of these
setups the weak and expensive ignitors are also replaced with some other
igniter (GM HEI for instance) or an ignition box like the MSD. Theres a lot of
wasted spark ignition setups you can do and they range from costing very little
to many $$$ to implement.

Most wasted spark ignition setups are postfixed with the acronym DFIS (Dual
Fire Ignition System). Any letters before that generally describe the type of coil
being used like 2GC == 2nd gen coil or TFI == Thick Film Ignition coil. The orginal that
started it all was promoted by Jeff20B and he called it DLIDFIS. Just search in the
first gen section for DFIS and you'll get a lot of threads that explain it all.

If you have a good DFIS implementation, the trailing can be removed as you
won't notice it anymore.

Murrayyy

thanks alot too!!! you guys are saving me so much money its rediculous! i thought i was gonna have to rebuild my carb and everything. i was also told it may be cracked apex seal but another person said it wouldnt run at all. im stuck in Fargo ND idk if you guys know but there is NO rotary technician within 4hours from here. im literally on my own besides this forum and a guy who owns shop in texas thats helps me through facebook

SteveNC

no problem. I've never messed with the leading/trailing wires at all. I try to keep mine stock.Make sure your wires are in good shape - on my first RX-7 the wires went bad and when it was high humidity it ran horribly. At the time I knew next to nothing about the engine but knew it was the wires when I opened the hood at night and the wires were glowing with electricity.

My only feeling on the ignition is to buy the good ND (Denso) or NGK plugs with the four probes and leave it stock unless you have a problem with it. I've tried the less expensive plugs with two electrodes and they are horrible. I've never tried the Denso Iridium plugs ('cause they are like $32 each and that is stupid expensive).

There are a lot of forum posts about changing to different ignition setups for direct fire, but several more other posters have said it isn't worth the time to make that change so I probably never will that to mine. I figure Mazda spent a lot of money coming up with a system that worked and is reliable so why mess with a good thing.

Murrayyy

you sir have a very good point. i am gonna try all new ignition. not df at first. the cheaper the better but at the same time with all the work they put into these motors i think they deserve to see them at top performance with the expensive parts. imo. but im going to try it ur way as i was going too and then if all else fails im going to remove trailing for sure. another question. anyone know of any writeups of full emissions removal for the 12a?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Search on "rats nest" and you should find a lot of things about it. Also check the
FAQ sticky in this section it will have details for removal as well.

That may have been true back in the 70s when they designed the ignition systems
but since then components have gotten better, cheaper and more reliable. Also
the Mazda engineers were constrained by cost. So what resulted was the cheapest,
most affective system NOT the best system they could come up with. This is true
even today if you notice folks are swicthing out there Rx8 coils for better
alternatives.

I can guarantee you the DFIS setups being used today are better than the
stock setups.

Murrayyy

thanks guys! im getting all the stuff fixed today so ill let you know how she runs asap